• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

110 mile cold air intake review

That was my initial thought when I saw the inside of those scoops. They seemed designed to move air into the Spyder and that's why I don't intend to put the BRP foglights on. If anything I'll add a set somewhere else on the Spyder.
 
With the European Spyders the lower lights are low beams, so I expect BRP had added the second hood bezel vent for the intake air. That is where the intake air sensor is located. I don't think they considered the amount of heat, though.
-Scotty
 
Sleepman,

Install looks easy, but as I try to get the duct around the coolant tank to the snorkel, it is pretty tight and it's kinking the duct. Did you have to deflect the snorkel a little to get it to fit?
 
Sleepman,

Install looks easy, but as I try to get the duct around the coolant tank to the snorkel, it is pretty tight and it's kinking the duct. Did you have to deflect the snorkel a little to get it to fit?

It's a tight fit for sure, but after I got mine on I shined a light down it and it doesn't appear to be kinking the snorkel to a point where it will affect air flow. As you pull a little of length out of the duct the snorkel will flex back against it. I didn't cut the snorkel because if I decide I don't like the mod for what ever reason I want to be able to go back to stock.
 
Thanks. Hope to get done tonight and try tomorrow. Haven't ridden since Friday so I'm not sure I will notice any seat of the pants difference, but based and yours and Lamonster's test runs, I'm sure its has to help even with the stock exhaust and filter.
 
Even with the stock design, some raindrops probably enter the inlet snorkel simply as a result of the airflow path created by stock diverter. I'm not the expert on the flow characteristics of water saturated air and if sufficient water could enter the airbox as a result of the duct connection, but if it's raining that hard, I'll be parked somewhere. If it is a problem then the real design guys will have to come up with a duct that has water knock out baffles and a drain to let and water out.
 
Is there any concern with water/rain getting in through either of these mods?

I gave it some thought, but I'm not overly concerned about it. I'll close if off when washing it but, I feel like you'd really have to have a heavy rain and be riding in it for a long time before it would collect enough water to harm the Spyder.

I'm more concerned about a mouse crawling up it or one of the kittens that has taken up residence under the hood of my car.:2thumbs:
 
It will work, but is about twice the price of aluminum duct. While the black may look nicer, it is hidden under the panels anyway so you can't see it. Plenty long enough since it is a very short distance from the air intake deflector to the airbox snorkel.
 
After two days of testing with and without the direct duct connection, I am not able to feel a big difference. I want to tell myself that it seems more crisp, but that may just be the fact that air temps here in Michigan are now in the 60s and not in the 80s like last week. The air scoop directing the air to the snorkel is only abouy 6" away from the snorkel and the air is pretty well moving straight to the snorkel anyway. The direct connection will improve the direct feed, but I'm not able to really confirm it from my seat of the pants runs. When you look at the snorkel design, they are extended out about 1/2" beyond the radiator shroud to avoid trapped hot air fron getting into the airbox. I believe that the reason Lamonster's fresh air feed worked so well for him is that he has the fog lamps and when they are installed, you eliminate the fresh air scoop in the stock panels. I'm not saying that having a better "ram" effect by closing in the air feed won't help, but the stock design with the air scoop and extended snorkels does a pretty good job of directing fresh air to the airbox. While the BRP fog lamps are a factory designed product, they do alter the fresh air feed. My theory; fog lamps improve visibility and forward lighting, but affect the direct fresh air flow to the airbox. On stock bikes without fog lamps, direct connection of air scoop to snorkel, in theory, improves fresh air flow, but won't be as dramatic as getting fresh air to airbox on bikes with fog lamps.
 
Thanks for coming back and posting your findings BRPjunkie. I can scratch that off my 'mods to do' list.
 
I'm glad I tried beacuse it gave me another chance to look at the way the Spyder was designed. From the outside, you can't see the diverter on the back of the stock panel that directs the air to the snorkel or the fact that the snorkel does reach beyond the radiator shroud to try to avoid hot air. I can't see how the airflow can be as good once the fog lamps are in place. Not only is the air flow disrupted, but there is some additional heat from the fog lamps which I expect get pretty warm. It is not a difficult task to add the length of duct to make sure the air is channeled perfectly to the airbox so I would not discourage anyone from giving it a try. My last ride was last Friday at 85 degrees without the duct on and when I ran it with the duct on yesterday (65 degrees), I really felt it was working. To make a more timely comparison, I took it back off and made the same run 30 minutes later (still 65 degrees) and that is when I decided I could not feel a big difference. Since it was now off, I left it that way.
 
I have the fog lights installed, along with the race airflow setup.

Here's what I'm working on for venting to keep cooler air going to the race filter:

1. Installing carbon fiber exterior vents - should be ready for install this weekend - and they look really sharp!

2. Making an insulated separation baffle to keep the heat from the engine and radiator from getting up near the filter system. It will surround and insulate the race filter and allow easy access. The baffle system will mate up to the vents so that only the cool air enters this 'upper' portion.

Should be a pretty easy install.

I noticed a huge increase in throttle response with the whole race setup (filter system, o2 mod, fuel pressure mod).

The only real problem with this setup is it is really loud - louder than the aftermarket pipe! You get used to it - but a little less noise will be nice.

I may add lower vents also to increase overall engine cooling underneath the baffle separator.

I agree that anyone with fog lamps is blocking air and losing some HP.
 
Back
Top