question about shocks...

[bone crusher]

I got my Spyder and am curious to see if anyone has had the dealership adjust the shocks based on weight...the bike feels a bit too bouncy and I'm not sure if this is normal or not? I think there are 7 settings for the shocks (as per the manual), but I have no idea what it's currently set at and if it really matters either way...

Thoughts?

 

[Lamonster]

welcome

I have my fronts cranked all the way up and the rear is up on from the middle. I don't think the dealer makes any adjustments. :dontknow:

 

[bjt]

welcome

I have my fronts cranked all the way up and the rear is up on from the middle. I don't think the dealer makes any adjustments. :dontknow:

:agree:

Our dealer told us he left the shocks at 3 for us but that setting is probably only good for 1 lite (<150 lbs.) rider. I have my rear cranked up to 7 as I weigh about 240 and I carry things in a back bag or saddlebags often. I raised the fronts up to either 4 or 5, can't remember, but 5 is the highest you can go on those.

 

[beka]

I'm about 130 and I still went to 4 on the front shocks. I can't even imagine using 1 or 2. I'm actually considering going up to 5.

 

[bone crusher]

shocks..

Can I make the changes myself or do I need the dealer to do this...is it easy to assess the number that it is set at? I read about this in the manual but didn't really look on the bike to check as I wasn't sure there was anything I could actually do about it on my own...

I weigh about 230 and the ride feels a bit 'bouncy' at times...so I was wondering if this could be the problem...

thanks...

 

[BRPjunkie]

You can make the adjustments yourself. Front is real easy and you don't need to jack it up. Squirt some WD-40 on the front shocks, get the shock wrench out of the tool kit, get a 12" long piece of 3/4" copper pipe and slip it over the shock wrench handle and the shocks will adjust turn easily. I think 4 is a good setting, but agree that 1 and 2 are useless and 3 is marginal. 5 was too stiff for me, but it may work for you You will notice the difference between 3 and 4 immediately. Rear is more difficult and requires jacking it up. The rear setting does not affect the feel in cornering as much as the front does, but at 230 lbs, the standard setting on the rear may be a bit soft.

 

[bjt]

Very simple to do yourself. The rear adjustment is done with a 3/8 ratchet with a 6 or 8 inch extension. The 3/8 square of the extensions fits into the square adjusting hole. I used a floor jack to lift the rear of the frame to get some of the weight off the swingarm (let the swingarm hang down) and I used a 12 inch coper tube for a bit more leverage while turning the ratchet. For the fronts, the spanner wrench needed is in the Spyder toolkit. The fronts adjusted fairly easily with the front frame jacked up or use a section of tubing as a cheater bar. Then you could make the adjustment without jacking up the front.

If you spend a minute looking at the shocks / springs on your Spyder, you should be able to easily see the spring setting notches and determine how yours are set.

 

[Magic Man]

Being I'm such a "little" guy (315#)

I have mine cranked up all the way front and back rides much better than the stock set up.

I also run 20 PSI in the front tires which made a real change in how well it handles as well. I got this tip from lamonster about the PSI.

MM

 

[bone crusher]

Hmmmm.

I'm gonna have to take a looksee to see what my dealer has the settings at...

 

[Spydyr]

I already posted this in general discussion before I found this thead. I weigh 170lbs., adjusted mine to the 4th notch, and now I can get it up on two wheels in tight, hairpin, 1st gear turns! I did it three times today so tomorrow I'm going to try the 3rd notch. It was originally set at the 2nd notch and the stability control was constantly slowing me down in sharp turns.

 

[Tonga]

I have read about higher front tire pressure. I was told that the ESP works with the lower tire pressures. I have found the 17 psi works much better then 15 psi so am curious about 20 psi. Can you tell me what happens with that much air? I can only imagine going up on one wheel.

 

[bone crusher]

Front shocks...

I checked my front shocks and they look like they're on the third position...I've been reading above to see how easy they are to change, but I have to take a closer look...

If it's not too hard to do, I'll give it a shake...just have to figure out that 12" copper tube thing...

Does it just loosen and twist...then tighten up again on the new position?

 

[bjt]

You aren't using the wrenches to loosen anything. You are turning the part of the shock / spring assembly that sets the spring tension.

The copper tube is only used to put over the spanner wrench or socket wrench handle to make the handle longer, giving you more leverage for turning the wrench. It doesn't have to be copper tube, thats just what I had laying around in my garage. It could be steel pipe, conduit, aluminum pipe, etc. Anything that can fit over the wrench handle and is strong enough for you to use to turn the wrench without having the tubing or pipe bend on you.

 

[sabunim5]

I have increased the spring preload on my front shocks twice. Once from 3 to 4 and later from 4 to 5. I did not lift the front off the ground to do so either time, but I did lube the adjustment collar with some WD40 the second time. I was able to make the adjustment both times only using the tool from the kit without an extension. I am 5' 8" and weigh 170. I do not consider myself exceptionally strong for my size, so don't spend a lot of time looking for something to increase your leverage unless you find you need it. Wearing gloves or wrapping a rag around the adjustment tool handle will be easier on your hand however. Ryde Safe and Enjoy:thumbup:
sabunim5:spyder:

 

[bjt]

I was able to make the adjustment both times only using the tool from the kit without an extension. I am 5' 8" and weigh 170. I do not consider myself exceptionally strong for my size, so don't spend a lot of time looking for something to increase your leverage unless you find you need it. Wearing gloves or wrapping a rag around the adjustment tool handle will be easier on your hand however. Ryde Safe and Enjoy:thumbup:
sabunim5:spyder:

:agree:

I think when I posted in the forums about adjusting dltang's and my Spyders, I said that the fronts turned fairly easily without any tube on the wrench. However, my rear shock definately needed the tube.

 

[bone crusher]

shocks...

I have to look at the little tool kit to see the device you all are talking about...am I wrong when I say that the kit looks like a dinky little black bag with maybe one or two things in it?

I remember seeing it behind the trunk liner...it didn't look like much...

 

[bjt]

It is a little black pouch in the trunk but there are more than two things in it. you aren't going to rebuild the engine with the tools in it but its enough to do most of the basics. The spanner wrench for the front shock adjustment is in the pouch, a 3/8" square drive for the rear shock is not in the pouch. That's where the 3/8 ratchet and 6" or 8" extension come into play.

 

[Zerocool]

I checked my front shocks and they look like they're on the third position...I've been reading above to see how easy they are to change, but I have to take a closer look...

If it's not too hard to do, I'll give it a shake...just have to figure out that 12" copper tube thing...

Does it just loosen and twist...then tighten up again on the new position?

I raised the front of my :spyder: and was able to adjust the front shocks from 3-5 using the included wrench and an 8" pipe, for leverage.

The rear shock on my :spyder: is really tight... how tight? I raised the rear, lubed up w/WD-40, and proceeded to bend my (made in china) ratchet in half! So, up to sears and bought a craftsman 3/8" (10" length) extension. Tried again, and bent the black plate upward :yikes:

Took Spydie to the dealer. They agreed it was much tighter than other Spyders they've seen, but were able to tighten it up 2 notches for me. Lessons learned...

1. Use quality tools (I knew better, {sigh}).
2. Use a better lubricant than WD-40; WD-40 is good for moving water, but not as good a lube as other alternatives.
3. Leverage is key. Dealer used a 1/2" (18" length) extension w/a 3/8" adapter. Turned easily.

Hope this helps others.