• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Belt Tension and Vibration

How about a SmoothSpyder Driveshaft?

I think the dealers should go by the book and latest service bulletins for their own protection, warranty and otherwise, they are selling BRP's product and the mechanics have been trained and expected to adhere to BRP's service spec's. I didn't say 700 or 800 newtons above the spec's, I said they might have to bump it up to 700-800 total. The dealers are between a rock and a hard spot, they can only do what the book says.If the customer isn't satisfied, they will have to look to BRP for answers, but I don't think they have much in the way of belt vibration answers, except those are "normal and inherent characteristics". The belts will stretch some from new as they heat up and cool down and take a set, but it seems the belts are set up very tight from the factory so you don't feel this "normal and inherent characteristic" until the belt is broken in and readjusted, or they probably wouldn't sell too many, especially to a gold wing rider. Maybe the belts are like many other features of the spyder, as in no two react the same to the same setting, as in one spyder gets 28 mpg and one gets 34, one gets oil in the box and the next doesn't. If 10 lbs. of tension is working well for most and their belt is set to 'spec' by the dealer then the rest should work also at that tension it would seem. Then there are plenty within the spec range with no tensioner or vibration at all, go figure. When I asked the tensioner parts manufacturer why some pulleys will have a whistle or whine and many don't, he said most likely the cooling ribs going across the pulley combined with a lower or different belt tension, but there are many variables in the belt manufacturing process for the belts to vary slightly also. If 10-12 lbs. isn't eliminating all the vibe's, or whatever is livable for the rider, it is unlikely that 14 lbs. will make a difference, it is easy enough to try and see, and great if it stops it, but the static tension may need to be raised a hair rather than more on the tensioner. I'm no technician by any means, and I think BRP has done a great job with most of the safety features to save us from ourselves, but I have to wonder about some of BRP's techs, like whoever designed the "highway limp mode", but I think they jumped the gun when they went to 450 Newtons, the previous 750 was a more reasonable setting on a belt that long and still a safe setting, again, these are just my thoughts and observations, I'm not suggesting anyone deviate from the spec's, and for those wanting to stay completely in spec, the tensioner will factor in about 20 lbs. to the overall static tension, so keep that in mind if shooting for 600 newtons. The vibration damper on the front sprocket was a nice addition to absorb some of the vibration to the sprocket and shaft, not sure how many spyders with loose front sprockets and shaft damage were from over tight belts or belt vibration itself, but that front sprocket must be taking a beating from the vibration as that is it's first contact point before it resonates through the rest of the bike. Also check the tensioner bolts for tightness occasionally whenever you have the panels off, it is absorbing the vibration and is the spyders first line of defense. In the end it all boils down to how much vibration is acceptable to you and how comfortable you feel going over the manufacturers recommended spec's a little if you have to, to achieve your vibration comfort level. I feel comfortable, but change my rear bearings at every tire change, needlessly I think, but I feel better. I think there are many spyders out there still running 800+ newtons or there would be many more complaints than there are, again, I'm no expert, these are just my thoughts.

I kinda think driveshafts are the way to go. Mr Bombardier never contacted me for my opinion. Guess it was just an oversight. I'm certainly not an expert on the subject, just an operator who has never had to spend a penny on a driveshaft problem. But being honest, no belt has ever needed any attention either, until now. Too bad they didn't put Nanny in control of the belt, like they did with the auto inflate system for the airbag. That might explain the different combinations of events the belts seem to have.

Tuck
 
I don't think that's it; Fly...
I might be the worst one in here for running at lower than suggested rpm levels; my bike only showed some intermittent vibes that were really tough to pinpoint up at highway speeds. (Starting at 55 to 60 or so...)
Belt afjusted and aligned: they disappeared! :thumbup:

Okay-- but what gear are you in at 55?

2nd? 3rd? Pleeeeease don't say 5th......
 
I think the dealers should go by the book and latest service bulletins for their own protection, warranty and otherwise, they are selling BRP's product and the mechanics have been trained and expected to adhere to BRP's service spec's. I didn't say 700 or 800 newtons above the spec's, I said they might have to bump it up to 700-800 total. The dealers are between a rock and a hard spot, they can only do what the book says.If the customer isn't satisfied, they will have to look to BRP for answers, but I don't think they have much in the way of belt vibration answers, except those are "normal and inherent characteristics". The belts will stretch some from new as they heat up and cool down and take a set, but it seems the belts are set up very tight from the factory so you don't feel this "normal and inherent characteristic" until the belt is broken in and readjusted, or they probably wouldn't sell too many, especially to a gold wing rider. Maybe the belts are like many other features of the spyder, as in no two react the same to the same setting, as in one spyder gets 28 mpg and one gets 34, one gets oil in the box and the next doesn't. If 10 lbs. of tension is working well for most and their belt is set to 'spec' by the dealer then the rest should work also at that tension it would seem. Then there are plenty within the spec range with no tensioner or vibration at all, go figure. When I asked the tensioner parts manufacturer why some pulleys will have a whistle or whine and many don't, he said most likely the cooling ribs going across the pulley combined with a lower or different belt tension, but there are many variables in the belt manufacturing process for the belts to vary slightly also. If 10-12 lbs. isn't eliminating all the vibe's, or whatever is livable for the rider, it is unlikely that 14 lbs. will make a difference, it is easy enough to try and see, and great if it stops it, but the static tension may need to be raised a hair rather than more on the tensioner. I'm no technician by any means, and I think BRP has done a great job with most of the safety features to save us from ourselves, but I have to wonder about some of BRP's techs, like whoever designed the "highway limp mode", but I think they jumped the gun when they went to 450 Newtons, the previous 750 was a more reasonable setting on a belt that long and still a safe setting, again, these are just my thoughts and observations, I'm not suggesting anyone deviate from the spec's, and for those wanting to stay completely in spec, the tensioner will factor in about 20 lbs. to the overall static tension, so keep that in mind if shooting for 600 newtons. The vibration damper on the front sprocket was a nice addition to absorb some of the vibration to the sprocket and shaft, not sure how many spyders with loose front sprockets and shaft damage were from over tight belts or belt vibration itself, but that front sprocket must be taking a beating from the vibration as that is it's first contact point before it resonates through the rest of the bike. Also check the tensioner bolts for tightness occasionally whenever you have the panels off, it is absorbing the vibration and is the spyders first line of defense. In the end it all boils down to how much vibration is acceptable to you and how comfortable you feel going over the manufacturers recommended spec's a little if you have to, to achieve your vibration comfort level. I feel comfortable, but change my rear bearings at every tire change, needlessly I think, but I feel better. I think there are many spyders out there still running 800+ newtons or there would be many more complaints than there are, again, I'm no expert, these are just my thoughts.

Capt Jim,

I talked to you just the other day after having my tensioner installed. The dealer had set it at about 7# which was not enough #'s and after I spoke with you I reset tensioner to 14#. Now at speeds up to about 50mph the bike/belt are absolutely smooth. Above the low 50mph area it helps but has not eliminated the vibrations. As I accelerate the vibration comes back and then the tensioner will help reduce the vibration. This happens if I'm at 55 or 70mph , 4Th or 5Th gear!!

I do not have a lot of experience on this bike yet but by reading these posts it is easy to see that as BRP has reduced belt tension along comes the vibration. I like riding this bike, but they need to get this vibration problem figured out or I will move to another brand bike.....they are getting way to much money for this bike to have this type of problems.
 
I can say my new 2012 RT has little to no belt vibration just as it came from the dealer. I was actually surprised as I had the belt tensioner on my GS and it made quite a difference. I have yet to check the tension on my RT-- but a quick twist of the belt to a 90 felt pretty close to what I ran on my GS.

I often wonder if those experiencing such vibrations are actually running to low RPMS in the wrong gear and lugging the engine.....:dontknow:
"but a quick twist of the belt to a 90" :hun: Could you explain that please?
 
"but a quick twist of the belt to a 90" :hun: Could you explain that please?
Grasp the belt edges, midway between the sprockets, with your thumb and forefinger. Give it a twist. If it twists 90 degrees (with difficulty) the tension is close. If it twists less, the belt is likely too tight. If it goes more, the belt should probably be tightened.

This is merely a seat-of-the-pants test. It is no true substitute for a measurement by sonic meter, or even by Krikit.
 
When I dropped my belt down from the original 'TOO TIGHT' tension to the current criteria I got a fair amount of vibration at 2 different RPM ranges. After running the belt for awhile these eventually went away. I still get just a bit of vibration at about 5200 depending on how hard I accellerate but it is minor.

You may need to run the correct settings for awhile to get the full effect.
 
Okay-- but what gear are you in at 55?

2nd? 3rd? Pleeeeease don't say 5th......
Oh... I'm in 5th all right! :thumbup:

Shifting at 4000 rpm has changed my shifting pattern quite a bit:
I now hit 5th at 47 mph (used to be only 38!)
4th gear pops up at about 38 mph. (previously a 30 mph speed was used)
3rd gear seems to get stabbed in at about 32 mph (this used to get grabbed at about 24 mph)

Basically I'm running about one gear lower than I used to out at speed...
The bike's happy and I'm happy! :thumbup:
 
Belt Tension

I have had the same experience as Ride Master with my belt tensioner. Will try the 14 lb setting.
Reese
 
I can say my new 2012 RT has little to no belt vibration just as it came from the dealer. I was actually surprised as I had the belt tensioner on my GS and it made quite a difference. I have yet to check the tension on my RT-- but a quick twist of the belt to a 90 felt pretty close to what I ran on my GS.

I often wonder if those experiencing such vibrations are actually running to low RPMS in the wrong gear and lugging the engine.....
:dontknow:
I think a lot of you out their are. You need to come to the realization that running and shifting at below 3500-4000 rpms just causes problems.
 
Oh... I'm in 5th all right! :thumbup:

Shifting at 4000 rpm has changed my shifting pattern quite a bit:
I now hit 5th at 47 mph (used to be only 38!)
4th gear pops up at about 38 mph. (previously a 30 mph speed was used)
3rd gear seems to get stabbed in at about 32 mph (this used to get grabbed at about 24 mph)

Basically I'm running about one gear lower than I used to out at speed...
The bike's happy and I'm happy! :thumbup:

If you are seriously hitting 5th gear at 47mph.... your bike is NOT happy and you're lugging and doing damage to it.nojoke

If you said 55 or 60 I'd say-- well-- okay-- you're borderline as I don't even THINK of 5th gear until 70.... but 47 mph??? not good at all bro....
 
After reading this forum I have spent more time listening to my Spyder and when I am cruising the back roads at 55 in 4th my engine sound quiet and the ride feels smoother by a lot and I think it is around 4800 rpm give or take 200 rpm.
 
I think the dealers should go by the book and latest service bulletins for their own protection, warranty and otherwise, they are selling BRP's product and the mechanics have been trained and expected to adhere to BRP's service spec's. I didn't say 700 or 800 newtons above the spec's, I said they might have to bump it up to 700-800 total. The dealers are between a rock and a hard spot, they can only do what the book says.If the customer isn't satisfied, they will have to look to BRP for answers, but I don't think they have much in the way of belt vibration answers, except those are "normal and inherent characteristics". The belts will stretch some from new as they heat up and cool down and take a set, but it seems the belts are set up very tight from the factory so you don't feel this "normal and inherent characteristic" until the belt is broken in and readjusted, or they probably wouldn't sell too many, especially to a gold wing rider. Maybe the belts are like many other features of the spyder, as in no two react the same to the same setting, as in one spyder gets 28 mpg and one gets 34, one gets oil in the box and the next doesn't. If 10 lbs. of tension is working well for most and their belt is set to 'spec' by the dealer then the rest should work also at that tension it would seem. Then there are plenty within the spec range with no tensioner or vibration at all, go figure. When I asked the tensioner parts manufacturer why some pulleys will have a whistle or whine and many don't, he said most likely the cooling ribs going across the pulley combined with a lower or different belt tension, but there are many variables in the belt manufacturing process for the belts to vary slightly also. If 10-12 lbs. isn't eliminating all the vibe's, or whatever is livable for the rider, it is unlikely that 14 lbs. will make a difference, it is easy enough to try and see, and great if it stops it, but the static tension may need to be raised a hair rather than more on the tensioner. I'm no technician by any means, and I think BRP has done a great job with most of the safety features to save us from ourselves, but I have to wonder about some of BRP's techs, like whoever designed the "highway limp mode", but I think they jumped the gun when they went to 450 Newtons, the previous 750 was a more reasonable setting on a belt that long and still a safe setting, again, these are just my thoughts and observations, I'm not suggesting anyone deviate from the spec's, and for those wanting to stay completely in spec, the tensioner will factor in about 20 lbs. to the overall static tension, so keep that in mind if shooting for 600 newtons. The vibration damper on the front sprocket was a nice addition to absorb some of the vibration to the sprocket and shaft, not sure how many spyders with loose front sprockets and shaft damage were from over tight belts or belt vibration itself, but that front sprocket must be taking a beating from the vibration as that is it's first contact point before it resonates through the rest of the bike. Also check the tensioner bolts for tightness occasionally whenever you have the panels off, it is absorbing the vibration and is the spyders first line of defense. In the end it all boils down to how much vibration is acceptable to you and how comfortable you feel going over the manufacturers recommended spec's a little if you have to, to achieve your vibration comfort level. I feel comfortable, but change my rear bearings at every tire change, needlessly I think, but I feel better. I think there are many spyders out there still running 800+ newtons or there would be many more complaints than there are, again, I'm no expert, these are just my thoughts.



Outstanding response. Vibration may seem harmless to some who aren't technicians but, it is in no way harmless. I going to move the tensioner back to 10 lbs and start over.Thanks,
Bob
 
I think the dealers should go by the book and latest service bulletins for their own protection, warranty and otherwise, they are selling BRP's product and the mechanics have been trained and expected to adhere to BRP's service spec's. I didn't say 700 or 800 newtons above the spec's, I said they might have to bump it up to 700-800 total. The dealers are between a rock and a hard spot, they can only do what the book says.If the customer isn't satisfied, they will have to look to BRP for answers, but I don't think they have much in the way of belt vibration answers, except those are "normal and inherent characteristics". The belts will stretch some from new as they heat up and cool down and take a set, but it seems the belts are set up very tight from the factory so you don't feel this "normal and inherent characteristic" until the belt is broken in and readjusted, or they probably wouldn't sell too many, especially to a gold wing rider. Maybe the belts are like many other features of the spyder, as in no two react the same to the same setting, as in one spyder gets 28 mpg and one gets 34, one gets oil in the box and the next doesn't. If 10 lbs. of tension is working well for most and their belt is set to 'spec' by the dealer then the rest should work also at that tension it would seem. Then there are plenty within the spec range with no tensioner or vibration at all, go figure. When I asked the tensioner parts manufacturer why some pulleys will have a whistle or whine and many don't, he said most likely the cooling ribs going across the pulley combined with a lower or different belt tension, but there are many variables in the belt manufacturing process for the belts to vary slightly also. If 10-12 lbs. isn't eliminating all the vibe's, or whatever is livable for the rider, it is unlikely that 14 lbs. will make a difference, it is easy enough to try and see, and great if it stops it, but the static tension may need to be raised a hair rather than more on the tensioner. I'm no technician by any means, and I think BRP has done a great job with most of the safety features to save us from ourselves, but I have to wonder about some of BRP's techs, like whoever designed the "highway limp mode", but I think they jumped the gun when they went to 450 Newtons, the previous 750 was a more reasonable setting on a belt that long and still a safe setting, again, these are just my thoughts and observations, I'm not suggesting anyone deviate from the spec's, and for those wanting to stay completely in spec, the tensioner will factor in about 20 lbs. to the overall static tension, so keep that in mind if shooting for 600 newtons. The vibration damper on the front sprocket was a nice addition to absorb some of the vibration to the sprocket and shaft, not sure how many spyders with loose front sprockets and shaft damage were from over tight belts or belt vibration itself, but that front sprocket must be taking a beating from the vibration as that is it's first contact point before it resonates through the rest of the bike. Also check the tensioner bolts for tightness occasionally whenever you have the panels off, it is absorbing the vibration and is the spyders first line of defense. In the end it all boils down to how much vibration is acceptable to you and how comfortable you feel going over the manufacturers recommended spec's a little if you have to, to achieve your vibration comfort level. I feel comfortable, but change my rear bearings at every tire change, needlessly I think, but I feel better. I think there are many spyders out there still running 800+ newtons or there would be many more complaints than there are, again, I'm no expert, these are just my thoughts.

That's what I meant, Jim...I have revised my comment.
Ride Master
 
I question why the tech moved the belt tension and the tensioner tension at the same time. At least that's the way it's being reported. May have been better off leaving the tension low and adjusting the tensioner to accommodate it. As long as everything is tracking OK there shouldn't be another variable. ?


That's a good observation and comment. Perhaps I should lower the tensioner back to 10 lbs and start over.
Thanks
 
I think the dealers should go by the book and latest service bulletins for their own protection, warranty and otherwise, they are selling BRP's product and the mechanics have been trained and expected to adhere to BRP's service spec's. I didn't say 700 or 800 newtons above the spec's, I said they might have to bump it up to 700-800 total. The dealers are between a rock and a hard spot, they can only do what the book says.If the customer isn't satisfied, they will have to look to BRP for answers, but I don't think they have much in the way of belt vibration answers, except those are "normal and inherent characteristics". The belts will stretch some from new as they heat up and cool down and take a set, but it seems the belts are set up very tight from the factory so you don't feel this "normal and inherent characteristic" until the belt is broken in and readjusted, or they probably wouldn't sell too many, especially to a gold wing rider. Maybe the belts are like many other features of the spyder, as in no two react the same to the same setting, as in one spyder gets 28 mpg and one gets 34, one gets oil in the box and the next doesn't. If 10 lbs. of tension is working well for most and their belt is set to 'spec' by the dealer then the rest should work also at that tension it would seem. Then there are plenty within the spec range with no tensioner or vibration at all, go figure. When I asked the tensioner parts manufacturer why some pulleys will have a whistle or whine and many don't, he said most likely the cooling ribs going across the pulley combined with a lower or different belt tension, but there are many variables in the belt manufacturing process for the belts to vary slightly also. If 10-12 lbs. isn't eliminating all the vibe's, or whatever is livable for the rider, it is unlikely that 14 lbs. will make a difference, it is easy enough to try and see, and great if it stops it, but the static tension may need to be raised a hair rather than more on the tensioner. I'm no technician by any means, and I think BRP has done a great job with most of the safety features to save us from ourselves, but I have to wonder about some of BRP's techs, like whoever designed the "highway limp mode", but I think they jumped the gun when they went to 450 Newtons, the previous 750 was a more reasonable setting on a belt that long and still a safe setting, again, these are just my thoughts and observations, I'm not suggesting anyone deviate from the spec's, and for those wanting to stay completely in spec, the tensioner will factor in about 20 lbs. to the overall static tension, so keep that in mind if shooting for 600 newtons. The vibration damper on the front sprocket was a nice addition to absorb some of the vibration to the sprocket and shaft, not sure how many spyders with loose front sprockets and shaft damage were from over tight belts or belt vibration itself, but that front sprocket must be taking a beating from the vibration as that is it's first contact point before it resonates through the rest of the bike. Also check the tensioner bolts for tightness occasionally whenever you have the panels off, it is absorbing the vibration and is the spyders first line of defense. In the end it all boils down to how much vibration is acceptable to you and how comfortable you feel going over the manufacturers recommended spec's a little if you have to, to achieve your vibration comfort level. I feel comfortable, but change my rear bearings at every tire change, needlessly I think, but I feel better. I think there are many spyders out there still running 800+ newtons or there would be many more complaints than there are, again, I'm no expert, these are just my thoughts.


Sorry, I meant 700-800 total. Thanks
Ride Master
 
Don't know what gear you are in at the 5200 -- 5500 RPM range... but if it is in 5th... then you might try to adjust your shift-ranges.

If you are not... then the following would not apply.

Just hold in 4th gear if you are cruising steady at speeds of 63 -- 65. Cruising at 63 - 65 MPH in 4th gear will put you right in that RPM range. You can cruise all-day at that speed in 4th gear without any problems. In fact, it would be likely you will have fewer problems. If yo do this, the vibrations you are experiencing may not occur. They do not for me when doing so.

Shift to 5th only if you are going to get above and hold speeds higher than 65 on level terrain.

Having said that, obviously when going to a higher speed when in 5th gear, you'll cross-through that RPM range, which might still cause vibration while you are in that range... but as you get to a higher-speed above that RPM range the vibrations should disappear. And if you are planning on moving along at higher speeds, you'll not be in that range for long.

I have found the engine and drivetrain is quieter, smoother, and has power left at the throttle by running at a higher RPM while is 4th gear (or any other, for that matter). (Are you listening Bob? :D)

Just a suggestion, without knowing all the details of your situation. If it doesn't apply, then I apologize...


I'm listening...traveling at 70-85 mph kind of requires 5th gear. I appreciate your comments. The vibration is also in 4th gear at the same 6000-6200 rpm
Bob
Ride Master
 
When I dropped my belt down from the original 'TOO TIGHT' tension to the current criteria I got a fair amount of vibration at 2 different RPM ranges. After running the belt for awhile these eventually went away. I still get just a bit of vibration at about 5200 depending on how hard I accellerate but it is minor.

You may need to run the correct settings for awhile to get the full effect.

My last ride was 1700 miles in 5 days...vibration still there
 
I'm listening...traveling at 70-85 mph kind of requires 5th gear. I appreciate your comments. The vibration is also in 4th gear at the same 6000-6200 rpm
Bob
Ride Master

Was just a thought.

Hope you get your problem fixed, because as you probably know, excessive belt vibrations can cause all kinds of failures to happen. The first that comes to mind are bearings blowing-out at the engine, since they are getting hammered when that happens. A similar thing happened to my friend's snowmobile... vibrations blew-out the bearings, and stranded he and I out in the middle of no where.

Good luck...
 
Oh... I'm in 5th all right! :thumbup:

Shifting at 4000 rpm has changed my shifting pattern quite a bit:
I now hit 5th at 47 mph (used to be only 38!)
4th gear pops up at about 38 mph. (previously a 30 mph speed was used)
3rd gear seems to get stabbed in at about 32 mph (this used to get grabbed at about 24 mph)

Basically I'm running about one gear lower than I used to out at speed...
The bike's happy and I'm happy! :thumbup:


I congratulate you on making an effort to change your shifting habits Bob!

However, and please do not take offense, shifting into 5th gear shouldn't be done at 47 MPH. You're killing your Spyder with a slow-death doing that. For what it is worth, I don't shift into 4th gear until I hit 47 MPH at the minimum.

For example; I took a cruise today looking at property and never got above 3rd gear. I was driving around town and on some country roads -- never went above 45 MPH... so didn't need to leave 3rd gear.

Just because there are 5-gears does not mean you have to use them every time you are on your Spyder. If you are riding at speeds less than 65... then your Spyder should never see 5th gear.

Keep trying to expand your horizons Bob... you've made progress so far. Who knows... you might be taking 4th gear to 55 MPH before you know it.:thumbup:
 
Capt Jim,

I talked to you just the other day after having my tensioner installed. The dealer had set it at about 7# which was not enough #'s and after I spoke with you I reset tensioner to 14#. Now at speeds up to about 50mph the bike/belt are absolutely smooth. Above the low 50mph area it helps but has not eliminated the vibrations. As I accelerate the vibration comes back and then the tensioner will help reduce the vibration. This happens if I'm at 55 or 70mph , 4Th or 5Th gear!!

Yes, I remember your call, I was sitting in the emergency with my arm in a sling with a shoulder injury. Busted my *** after I stepped in some iguana crap on the sidewalk while waiting for the fireworks to start, we have a lot of iguana's in S. FL.. Seen some stars that night but not much fireworks, was sitting on the couch at 8:30 using a bag of frozen cut green beans for an ice pack.
You wouldn't be the first to change back to 2 wheels over belt vibration I think, I've had many customers tell me they would have dumped it long ago if they couldn't get rid of the vibration. Unfortunately, the tensioner is not a cure-all for everyone, for many it is, but I suspect many are running a tighter tension than the book calls for, and some, maybe most don't seem to have any vibration for some reason. Many mechanics are thorough and will check, adjust and grease everything by the book, well, everything except the grease fittings on the top back A-arms, which require near complete dis-assembly to change, and others, not so much, as in "Hey, I got a lot of bikes in front of me, and if it ain't broke, don't fix it. The belt is 40" long between sprocket centers and the belt tends to want to follow the curvature of the front sprocket as the teeth from the belt separate from the sprocket teeth, throwing a ripple effect towards the back sprocket. The belt doesn't know or care what gear your in, it is more speed related. Until BRP raises the tension back the other way some or comes out with something better in the way of belt control or a tensioning system some are still going to have some vibration, even with the tensioner, although greatly reduced I hope. In addition to that there is still some belt squeal and noise, hence the gray coating on the new belts. I like my tensioner business, but I love the joy from knowing I made a positive difference in another spyder riders time in the saddle. Sometimes though I feel like I am one little person trying to fix all of BRP's belt woes. Riders call or email me day and night because they can't get thru to BRP or are referred back to the dealer whose hands are tied. Why can't they fix my squealing belt!, or they adjusted it and now it's off to one side!,or what is that growling noise?, or the vibration is driving me crazy and I shouldn't have to buy a tensioner after I just spent 25k.
I'm happy to share my limited knowledge or give what advice I can, but I don't work for BRP, and I don't have all the answers. I love my GS dearly and I think BRP has done a great job bringing us something exciting and new to the market, a new paradigm they call it, and I'm not here to bash them and certainly want them to prosper and bring us new things, but bad news travels fast, and they need to start addressing and ironing out some of these design defects instead of flooding the market with new spyders with old problems. They fixed the steering problem, which was a biggie as far as a liability issue, but the fly by wire throttle and related electrical problems seem to be causing a lot of grief, and the dreaded limp mode while on a busy highway is downright frightening. As far as lowering the belt tension 3 times and the vibration that may ensue, the customer and dealers should not have to endure the frustration and misery for BRP's drivetrain engineering, or lack there of, and miscalculation of what damage might occur from a belt that long set tight enough to not vibrate, many of their customers will suffer needlessly or have to spend more money on a tensioner because BRP may have to replace some bearings at their cost while under warranty. BRP at least should give the dealers and mechanics some leeway to use their own judgement, discretion and experience when setting the belt tension since it was BRP's doing, raise it up a little at a time if necessary until the customer is happy, if there is still a little vibration we will buy them a tensioner, which should clean up what's left. It maybe a little tighter than BRP likes and they may have to replace a few bearings here and there, but look at all the money they have saved by not redesigning anything or adding a tensioner of some sort. The customer is king, and a happy customer will come back and pass on the good word and bring more sales, people tend to remember the bad stuff they hear long after they have forgotten the good things.
And most customers bought a smooth running spyder when new I would imagine, as most complaints come after the belt is readjusted, it's not fair to change the rules in the middle of the game. I went to visit my folks in Central FL. a couple of weeks ago and stopped in a large dealership, they had 4 new RT's and 2 used ones, one with 3500 miles and one with 9500, no RS's. The first thing I do naturally is reach in and feel the tension, the new ones were very tight and the used ones were very loose. Had they been RS's I would have thought nothing of it, as they are traded for RT's frequently, but the first thing to cross my mind is they probably couldn't stand the vibration and traded it in, it made me sad.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top