Coolant Tank Cap - Ease of Operation

[Jeriatric]

If you haven't had it off yet. You're in for some fun! Getting it off was a little awkward but getting it back on in the limited space was a JOKE. nojoke

After a little analysis here's what I did to make it EASIER.

As you know there are two tabs on the cap that that drop into two indents in the reservoir, then they must climb onto the plastic lip of the reservoir, then the cap rotates to its home, or locked in place position. Well, that's the way it's supposed to work BUT, if you can't get enough pressure on the cap to drop those tabs under the plastic lip.....you're going NOWHERE.

This is what I did to make it EASIER (not easy) to get the cap back home. Turned and LOCKED IN PLACE.

I bent the leading edge of both tabs just enough that with downward pressure on the cap, while twisting, they could move onto the plastic lip. They would not before....even with a little help from a leveraged piece of wood putting down force on the cap.

DO NOT BEND THE ENTIRE TAB & DON'T TRY TO GET WHAT YOU NEED IN ONE BEND.

Be gentle and just bend them enough to get what you need. An easier start onto the plastic lip.

By not changing the remaining portion of the tab, you'll have more than ample locking pressure on the cap and NEXT TIME will be much easier.

By the way......check your coolant level. My Spyder was just in for the 600 mile service and needed liquid.

 

[Big Iron]

That seems a bit much,,, is that just on the RT!?

 

[daveinva]

Dunno if the RT cap is different than the RS (can't see why it would be), but for the record, here's my advice:

1. Don't bother messing with the coolant unless you also take off the right side panel, at least the front to bend back. Odds are your hands aren't small enough to wiggle in there without the added room.

2. After you have that panel open, you can shine a flashlight behind the coolant reservoir to check your fill level.

3. The trick to the cap? Easy: patience. It really only has one right way on and off, and if you take your time and get a firm grip, it works easily.

Unfortunately, I never could get a good grip without opening up that side panel. Just popping the frunk and removing the black plastic coolant/fuze cover doesn't give me enough space and leverage to take the cap off, let alone put it back on. Sliced up fingers are no fun.

Again, just another little thing that makes me question whether BRP has any "human factors" engineers on their payroll. I swear they must employ the same whack-jobs that Volkswagen does (VW being the only other "mass produced" item that strikes me as similarly hard to do routine maintenance and access the most common areas to work on).

 

[Jeriatric]

That seems a bit much,,, is that just on the RT!?

Don't know about other models.

Wasn't really anything to it, but I did go into detail on how I did it in an effort to keep anyone from over doing it.

All I have to do is remove the trunk panel to check and fill as needed. That's good enough for me.

Whether or not anyone wishes to do it this way is their choice. Obviously.

 

[ulflyer]

Jerbear: I did exactly the same as you about a month ago. Could not get the durn cap on; skinned my hand trying. Bent the outter edges and now its a breeze. You explained it well for others who want to do it the easy way.

 

[Sarge707]

On the RS you have to take out the fuse box big cover and Top "Y' panel only (2 hex and 2 push pins).
Press down (Pressure) and turn left and then I put it aside in Exactly the position it came off in- Then fill- press back in--- in the same position and turn right.

 

[daveinva]

On the RS you have to take out the fuse box big cover and Top "Y' panel only (2 hex and 2 push pins).
Press down (Pressure) and turn left and then I put it aside in Exactly the position it came off in- Then fill- press back in--- in the same position and turn right.

:banghead: When I wrote "right side panel" I meant the right side of the Y panel, d'oh!