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Oil consumption?

Mexican

New member
Hello guys, i have a question, ;
I had the spyder serviced 3 months ago by the dealership, my wife rode it around town just running errands, i figured everything was just fine since the spyder had 500 miles since the last service so i didn't bother checking the oil.

Last weekend on my way to Maggie Valley a little over 900 miles away i started thinking about it, so when we stopped for the night in Knoxville i checked the oil and guess what!! Almost 2 quarts low!!!!!!:yikes:
I went to autozone and bought some Mobil 10-40 since it was all they had, the spyder calls for 5-40 but at that time its all i found, i don't think it will be that much difference.
The question i have is,;\
Does the spyder burns a lot of oil in between changes or the dealer just didn't put enough in it?
I own 4 other bikes and i never have to put oil in them in between changes!
 
Hello guys, i have a question, ;
I had the spyder serviced 3 months ago by the dealership, my wife rode it around town just running errands, i figured everything was just fine since the spyder had 500 miles since the last service so i didn't bother checking the oil.

Last weekend on my way to Maggie Valley a little over 900 miles away i started thinking about it, so when we stopped for the night in Knoxville i checked the oil and guess what!! Almost 2 quarts low!!!!!!:yikes:
I went to autozone and bought some Mobil 10-40 since it was all they had, the spyder calls for 5-40 but at that time its all i found, i don't think it will be that much difference.
The question i have is,;\
Does the spyder burns a lot of oil in between changes or the dealer just didn't put enough in it?
I own 4 other bikes and i never have to put oil in them in between changes!

10/40 won't hurt that's what i used. That said it also must be rated for wet clutch use.
Using Two quarts between changers is excessive, Did you check it by the book?
It's not as simple checking as with a Motorcycle.
 
I followed the instructions, it says to run the engine for at least 30 seconds, i think i did everything right but i will check the manual, hope i didn't break anything:opps:
 
I followed the instructions, it says to run the engine for at least 30 seconds, i think i did everything right but i will check the manual, hope i didn't break anything:opps:
You missed an important part of the procedure. Before checking the oil, the engine must be at full operating temperature! That does not just mean seeing the temp gauge come up a notch or two, and it certainly does not mean simply running the engine for 30 seconds.

1) The engine (oil) must be at full operating temperature. Best time to check is right after a ride.
2) Remove the body panel over the oil tank.
3) Run the engine for at least 30 seconds to evacuate any oil that drained to the engine sump.
4) Shut off the engine, remove the dipstick, wipe it off, then reinsert it and screw it down completely. This should be done within a minute or so .
5) Remove again and read the oil level. It should be between the "Add" and "Full" marks.
6) If necessary, adjust the oil level.

Failing to follow this procedure exactly can result in adding too much oil, which can pass oil to the airbox, or even harm the engine. I seriously doubt your oil level was actually two quarts low, without triggering a failure code or causing shifting/clutch problems. Please check again to see that you did not seriously overfill.
 
You missed an important part of the procedure. Before checking the oil, the engine must be at full operating temperature! That does not just mean seeing the temp gauge come up a notch or two, and it certainly does not mean simply running the engine for 30 seconds.

1) The engine (oil) must be at full operating temperature. Best time to check is right after a ride.
2) Remove the body panel over the oil tank.
3) Run the engine for at least 30 seconds to evacuate any oil that drained to the engine sump.
4) Shut off the engine, remove the dipstick, wipe it off, then reinsert it and screw it down completely. This should be done within a minute or so .
5) Remove again and read the oil level. It should be between the "Add" and "Full" marks.
6) If necessary, adjust the oil level.

Failing to follow this procedure exactly can result in adding too much oil, which can pass oil to the airbox, or even harm the engine. I seriously doubt your oil level was actually two quarts low, without triggering a failure code or causing shifting/clutch problems. Please check again to see that you did not seriously overfill.
Crap!!! i better see what is going on, i rode 900 miles back without a problem, i will change the oil just in case and follow all the instructions just in case!
 
I did a little testing the other day and a little temp makes quite a difference. Temp gauge at half from idling then checking after a good run saw almost a half inch difference (both were in the range). It is very critical to do it correctly when i picked mine up that was a main thing they ran me through was checking the oil.


Josh
 
I did a little testing the other day and a little temp makes quite a difference. Temp gauge at half from idling then checking after a good run saw almost a half inch difference (both were in the range). It is very critical to do it correctly when i picked mine up that was a main thing they ran me through was checking the oil.


Josh

Yep, combine that with not screwing in the dipstick, and you could have nearly an inch of error. It is a pain to do it correctly sometimes, but it is important to do so.
 
Does anybody know how much oil does the spyder takes?
SM = 4.1 qt. (oil change with filter)
SE = 4.5 qt. (oil change with both filters)
Not sure of the capacity without a filter change.

If you change your own oil, don't add it all at once. Put in 3.5-4.0 quarts, start the engine to distribute the oil and fill the system, then shut it off and add the rest. Don't find tune the level until you reach full (oil) operating temperature and check it according to the procedure.
 
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If i was almost 2 quarts low,, would have seen a warning of some kind??
now i think i got too much oil in it!, i will not let my wife ride it until i get to the bottom of this mess:opps:
 
If i was almost 2 quarts low,, would have seen a warning of some kind??
now i think i got too much oil in it!, i will not let my wife ride it until i get to the bottom of this mess:opps:
I would expect you would get a warning, but I wouldn't guarantee it. If you want to check the oil cold, i'd shoot for the very bottom of the dipstick (after a quick start for 30-60 seconds to evacuate the sump). At that point you should be able to ride it and bring it to temperature to check again and adjust. You can siphon out oil with a clean piece of hose, or use a turkey baster.
 
If i was almost 2 quarts low,, would have seen a warning of some kind??
now i think i got too much oil in it!, i will not let my wife ride it until i get to the bottom of this mess:opps:

With a dry sump system 2 quarts low will not trigger the oil light because the light is for low oil pressure, not low oil amount. And if you are 2 quarts over it will/should start blowing out the air box if you continue to ride it., It Will make a mess but won't damage any thing.
 
With a dry sump system 2 quarts low will not trigger the oil light because the light is for low oil pressure, not low oil amount. And if you are 2 quarts over it will/should start blowing out the air box if you continue to ride it., It Will make a mess but won't damage any thing.
Thanks!!
That makes me feel much better, tonight im changing the oil (if i can figure out how?, this thing is not your everyday motorcycle!:sour:
 
All the info you will need to change the oil is right here. I think Lamont and several others have done some really nice write ups on the process. you are correct it is not like any other bike. But its not hard once you know the process :). Still wayyyy easier than my KTM Adv.


Josh
 
With a dry sump system 2 quarts low will not trigger the oil light because the light is for low oil pressure, not low oil amount. And if you are 2 quarts over it will/should start blowing out the air box if you continue to ride it., It Will make a mess but won't damage any thing.
Note: some dry sump systems will not give an indication, and some will. It depends on the pressure setting of the switch and the oil pump characteristics. Low head pressures caused by a low tank level can make some pumps drop below the threshold pressure more readily than others...especially at idle. Some systems are prone to cavitation and will pull in air if the level is too low, too, with the same result. Dry sump systems are generally forgiving, but they are all different and do have their limits. The Spyder warning seems pretty sensitive to me...at least the one on my 2010 RTS was.
 
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I knew i did the right thing subscribing to this great forum
:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
 
The manual also states that if you check the oil while engine is at room temp it will show only half the oil on the stick. So you can check it "cold " but have to remember its only half the measurment. But just as correct. "I guess"
 
The manual also states that if you check the oil while engine is at room temp it will show only half the oil on the stick. So you can check it "cold " but have to remember its only half the measurment. But just as correct. "I guess"
The manual is mistaken. The level depends on the oil and air temperature, and is highly variable. I have never seen the cold oil level above the tip of the stick...and usually below in our cool climate. The only way to control the temperature variable is but having the engine at full operating temperature.
 
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