• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

re heated ear

bmwlarry

New member
I have a RT Lmtd on it way. I ride a BMW K1200LT and use a heated vest & Gloves when its cold. My wife will probably join me on the spyder and will also need hookup. I see there is a socket on the rear trunk rated for only 3 amps. but I would like to have convenient connections for both of us. What has folks done to accommodate this and how much expense id involved?
Thanks
I can't wait to "grin all day"!
 
I have a RT Lmtd on it way. I ride a BMW K1200LT and use a heated vest & Gloves when its cold. My wife will probably join me on the spyder and will also need hookup. I see there is a socket on the rear trunk rated for only 3 amps. but I would like to have convenient connections for both of us. What has folks done to accommodate this and how much expense id involved?
Thanks
I can't wait to "grin all day"!

I use girbing heated gear it came with the power cord it was easy to hook up I wired a relay off the fuse box powering a wire from the battery running under the seat then come out by the handle bars we are using the RKA elcro series tank bag and put the heat controllers in there, I've rode for 40 yrs and always wanted heated gear I can't believe I waited so long the trikes are a big investment the heated gear extends the riding season so much wow i love it 30 deg no problem
 
Two options:

1. Pigtail off the battery to power the heated gear. Easiest to install. DON'T pigtail off the battery posts under the seat-- you need to use the battery itself, and be sure to keep those connections tight. (The Spyder doesn't like loose battery connections).

2. Install dash-mounted socket(s). I had a dealer install two sockets, I chose to go with Powerlets (the sockets made for the Goldwing work on the Spyder) versus 12v sockets, they fit underneath and to the right of the two guages. I just plug in my Gerbing gear when I ride, and my battery tender when I don't, easy as pie. You can search for "Powerlets" here on the board and find someone with instructions on how to install them yourself if you so choose, it's easy enough to do as long as you're comfortable drilling through your plastic.
 
I'm not into wiring gizmos , So with all my bikes i Pig tail direct to the battery [NOT the jumper post under the seat], with a 15 amp fuse'.
That's what i did for my heated jacket, and tender/ cell phone charger. :thumbup:
 
The rear outlet is rated 10 amps on the RT, but it is in the trunk and not available for this use. What may look like an outlet near the left rear grab bar on a Spyder with a comm system is really the comm port. The best way to do what you are trying to do would involve installing a switched auxiliary fuse block and a couple of outlets. I used an Eastern Beaver 3CS fuse block and Powerlet (BMW type) outlets, front and rear. You could also just wire two heated gear harnesses (that come with the gear) directly, but I'd still use an auxiliary fuse block for more than one direct connection. Multiple terminals mounted directly to the battery is an invitation to trouble. BTW, wire directly to the battery, not to the jumper terminals under the seat...at least never the negative terminal.
 
re hookups

Daveinva

Could you share what expense was involved with the dealers doing it? I tend to accumulate extra electrical goodies and things on my BMW got messy. I am considering doing it right this time and maybe instal a fuse block somewhere. Anyone done that and where did you put it?

Thanks
 
I put my 3CS on each of my RTs under the left body panel, near the positive jumper terminal. My front Powerlets are in the front speaker grills. My rear Powerlet (actually Gerbing) is in the hole where the comm system outlet would reside. I used pre-assembled Eastern Beaver wiring harnesses this time, to save my having to fabricate them, so everything was quick, smooth, and easy.

attachment.php


attachment.php


attachment.php


attachment.php
 
Daveinva

Could you share what expense was involved with the dealers doing it? I tend to accumulate extra electrical goodies and things on my BMW got messy. I am considering doing it right this time and maybe instal a fuse block somewhere. Anyone done that and where did you put it?

Thanks

I think (hope?) I saved the receipt at home, did it a while back. Wasn't too expensive, just an hour of labor IIRC. Do note that I have an RS. However, everything I needed for the install was with the Powerlet kit I bought direct from their site. I did not install an auxilliary fuse block, the Powerlet kit has an in-line fuse to the battery, so must defer to Scotty's expertise on that front.

http://www.powerlet.com/product/multifit-two-socket-panel-kit-48/183
 
The rear outlet is rated 10 amps on the RT, but it is in the trunk and not available for this use. QUOTE]

you could get an extension cord and use it.....I tried it and it works...the trunk will close on the cord. I am going to mount one power plug on the dashboard.......I doubt I will need more than one!

 
Back
Top