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Bit worried...

Arr MiHardies

Arr MiHardies

New member
Took my Spyder out to the chiropractor today. Ran great. Then I parked. And noticed thick wisps of smoke coming from the front left side. I immediately thought to myself, "oh :cus:!" and my heart sank. The smoke stopped the minute I turned off the bike. The only other time I've seen smoke like that was when I had a short in a wire going to my lights and had too big a fuse going to it, and that whole wire started to melt and smoke. So I immediately checked the wiring around my fuse box. Everything looked good, no melted wires or anything. All my lights were still on, so nothing shorted out. I did notice the wiring to my hid ballasts had pulled from the fuse box a bit and had become exposed. I supposed it was possible it was shorting on the frame. I pulled out my leatherman and went to work putting it back where it belonged. No smoke on the way home, but it really had me worried. I haven't done any upgrades in a long while, so I'm not sure what could be up.
 
Arr MiHardies said:
Took my Spyder out to the chiropractor today. Ran great. Then I parked. And noticed thick wisps of smoke coming from the front left side. I immediately thought to myself, "oh :cus:!" and my heart sank. The smoke stopped the minute I turned off the bike. The only other time I've seen smoke like that was when I had a short in a wire going to my lights and had too big a fuse going to it, and that whole wire started to melt and smoke. So I immediately checked the wiring around my fuse box. Everything looked good, no melted wires or anything. All my lights were still on, so nothing shorted out. I did notice the wiring to my hid ballasts had pulled from the fuse box a bit and had become exposed. I supposed it was possible it was shorting on the frame. I pulled out my leatherman and went to work putting it back where it belonged. No smoke on the way home, but it really had me worried. I haven't done any upgrades in a long while, so I'm not sure what could be up.
Click to expand...

If the smoke was coming from the right side i would say check the air box for oil dripping out' But the left
side.:dontknow:
 
He and Yol got together to check out some favorite popcorn recipes! :thumbup:
Bacon fat and extra-sharp cheddar cheese...
36_3_10.gif
 
There's been a few time I've thought I smelled something odd from my bike. Never could find it again. Hoping this is the last of it.

How large of a fuse should I use to the circuit that handles my 2 HID ballasts? I've got either a 25 or 30 amp in there right now. Too large?
 
Fuses should be sized not only for the load, but for the wire size. I suspect yours are too big, but I would need more info to comment further. Even at that, you have another flaw...either a load too large for the wiring size, or a short circuit. A wire (or component) won't oveheat if properly wired. The fuse is there to blow in case of a fault, not to control the amount of current you feed to the circuit. Time to strip everything down and look carefully for marks from arcing, blued spots, or melted or scorched inslation.
 
I would check the easy first ( oil dripping out of the air box ) and then give your wiring a good look . Let us know what you found .:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
 
After the smoke yesterday. I took the Spyder out today. First trip to the docs went normally. Then we went to the bowling alley. At a stop light, I notice my clock was off, so I go to correct it. Noticing the date/month/year is off too, I start to correct those. The light turns green. I move forward, the system menu disappears as I would expect. At the next light I go back to continue correcting the info. While correcting it, I get a check engine light on the dash. I finish setting the date/time. Pull away when the light turns green, light goes away. Comes back at the next stop light. Stop at my destination around the corner and check the error code.

UO155.

Checking that here, the only reference I find is for a 2010 rt. mine is a 2011, but don't now if that makes any difference.

Would this ECM cluster be located on the left side of the bike where i saw smoke yesterday, Or was the computer throwing a fit cause the date time changed while it was running causing the nanny to think something silly was going on?


ECM Lost Communication with CLUSTER (lost of CAN ID's)

Missing CAN ID Module internal error Damaged circuit wire or damaged module pin

Check for cluster fault or ecm fault
Measure voltage between harness connector CL-8 and ground (expect value = 1 to 13 volts)
Disconnect MP12 from DLC connector
Measure resistance between DLC-1 and DLC-2 (expected value = 50 to 70 ohms)
Measure resistance between DLC-1 and ECMB C-1 (expected value < 2 ohms)
Measure resistance between DLC-2 and ECMB C-2 (expected value < 2 ohms)
Measure resistance between DLC-1 and CL-24 (expected value < 2 ohms)
Measure resistance between DLC-2 and CL-23 (expected value < 2 ohms)
 
Last edited:
Arr MiHardies said:
Also want to add the trip home from bowling was uneventful. No lights or anything.
Click to expand...

Great, but going back to the smoke, your nose can be your best friend in determining the type of fault. Overheated brake pads generally give off a smouldering-leather smell. If you've ever watched a farrier shoeing a horse, when he touches the hot iron to the hoof it's kinda like that smell. Whereas hot wiring has an acrid plasticky pong. The wire gets hot but it's the insulation melting around it which produces both the smell and the smoke. Those two heat sources, brake and wiring, give off distinctive odours and once you've had a good sniff at both you are unlikely ever to mistake one for the other. :f_spider:
 
HIDs should have an in line fuse holder for a fuse large enough to the job from the factoryI think mine is 20 amp. The relay wire that goes to the ignition draws much less, possibly just a few amps and may or not be inline. Contact the manufacturer if they are after-market for the best answer.

I have had smoke drift out of my left access panel a few times. There is a header pipe running behind the oil reservoir (RT) and something must have splashed up on it. However, one time is was an accessoire wire that came loose and landed on the header pipe. It did not melt quite through but almost. To really check it out best to pull the side panels off and have a good look with a bright flashlight.

Good luck
 
The fault codes are the same (if used) for all models. They are based on the OBD II fault codes. U0155 can involve any or all of three modules. Basically it indicates a communications fault...usually wiring related. It it persists, check the connectors (and wiring) going to those modules, especially the cluster. Also look for added high current wires running in parallel with these wiring harnesses, that could cause inductive interference.

It sounds as if you may have created your own nightmare, but if so, now is the time to find and cure the cause. If something you did fries hundreds of dollars worth of modules or wiring harnesses, your warranty won't cover them. Find the problem while it is small, and save some grief...even if you have to pay a dealer to help. I'd see your dealer ASAP!
 
Today, while the Spyder was running, I went to set the clock and got the same error code! After a minute or two, the check engine light went out and I continued home with no other issues.
 
Saying that the smoke stopped as soon as you shut off the key leads me to believe it's a hot wire. Normally when a wire overheats from shorting, as soon as you remove the current the smoke stops. That and the error code sounds like a wire somewhere to me. When I worked on equipment full time I sometimes had to resort to a "smoke" check to find a difficult wiring issue. This involved removing the fuse for that circuit and jumping it. That was a sure way to find the problem. However, I DO NOT recommend this for anyone to use. Especially on the Spyder.
 
bruiser said:
Saying that the smoke stopped as soon as you shut off the key leads me to believe it's a hot wire. Normally when a wire overheats from shorting, as soon as you remove the current the smoke stops. That and the error code sounds like a wire somewhere to me. When I worked on equipment full time I sometimes had to resort to a "smoke" check to find a difficult wiring issue. This involved removing the fuse for that circuit and jumping it. That was a sure way to find the problem. However, I DO NOT recommend this for anyone to use. Especially on the Spyder.
Click to expand...

Back in the old days, Quite a few houses burnt down when someone would put a penny in front of a blown fuse.:yikes:
 
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