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BRP Trailer Hitch - Self instalable?

kinggeek

New member
I am not a mechanic but I am fairly handy and can follow directions. I am doing my own oil changes and just ordered front and rear brake pads and plugs and wires from BajaRon.

Opinions, is the trailer hitch a do it yourself or a dealer only job?
 
The hitch is an easy install, if you're doing your own oil changes this will be pretty easy. The harness is a little work but take your time and you can get it. :doorag:
 
I am NOT a wrench guy at all. I'm electrical. But I put my hitch on in about 30min. SUPER easy. The wiring is only hard because of how you have to route it.


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2010 vs 2011?

Any issues with putting a 2010 trailer/hitch on a 2011 RT? Anyone know what the diff is between 2010 and 2011?
 
Any issues with putting a 2010 trailer/hitch on a 2011 RT? Anyone know what the diff is between 2010 and 2011?
You should have no trouble. The Spyder wiring is the same, as far as I can tell. The trailers wiring and lighting are different. The 2010 trailer (at least the early ones) are wired as 6-wire, with separate brakelights and turn signals like the Spyder. The 2011 trailers are wired as 4-wire, with combined brakelights/turn signals. Hook up the trailer and the Spyder should know the difference. I don't think the difference is in the Spyder end of the wiring, but either way the Spyder and trailer will be happy.
 
Installation - Done!

Thanks to all for the replies. I was able to do 95% of it myself :yes:.

The only parts I couLd not do was because I did not have the proper tools. No wrench/socket large enough to install the ball and no rivet gun to install the mudflap. Thankfully the dealer did both for free when I picked up he trailer!

Now I just need to learn to drive in reverse with the trailer attached. I do not know how you experienced trailer pullers do it! :bowdown:

OMG felt like it took 20 min to get it in the freakin' garage but I was determined to do so and it was good practice! Any advice, is there a "Pulling a trailer for DUMMIES" BOOK?:helpsmilie:
 
Thanks to all for the replies. I was able to do 95% of it myself :yes:.

The only parts I couLd not do was because I did not have the proper tools. No wrench/socket large enough to install the ball and no rivet gun to install the mudflap. Thankfully the dealer did both for free when I picked up he trailer!

Now I just need to learn to drive in reverse with the trailer attached. I do not know how you experienced trailer pullers do it! :bowdown:

OMG felt like it took 20 min to get it in the freakin' garage but I was determined to do so and it was good practice! Any advice, is there a "Pulling a trailer for DUMMIES" BOOK?:helpsmilie:
The best tips I can offer are:

Take it slow! You will get used to the idea of steering the opposite direction to guide the trailer, but slow and easy does it! This is especially true if you back up using the mirrors.

If you begin to get off course, immediately pull ahead a bit and try again! Even truck drivers will tell you that when the trailer starts to jackknife, you will never correct it. With a short trailer as on the Spyder and the slow steering of the Spyder, trilers are a challenge. If the trailer heads off at too sharp an angle, pull ahead a bit and take another shot...the sooner the better.

Most of us have to play around a bit to back the Spyder trailer effectively. There is no shame in it. Just watch where you are going and take your time. You'll do fine. If you are like many of us, you will get your exercise, too. Easier to pull into a an open place in the back part of a parking lot frontwards, than to back into a tight space close to the building sometimes. I have also found that it can be easier to back out of a parking place than to back into it.
 
Just takes practise

It will get easier just takes practise.

I learned when I was 10 or 11 years old to backup a hay wagon with front steering axle, down a curved barn bank with a tractor that had a hand clutch and independent right a left brakes. Every thing was easy after that.
 
2010-13/service bulletin/trailer RT-622 - key barrel installation?

Anyone have a copy of "2010-13/service bulletin/trailer RT-622 - key barrel installation" or know what it involves. I just bought the 2010 RT-622 trailer but forgot to bring the matching RT key barrel with me when I picked it up and it is 200 miles round trip so do not really want to pull it back down there to get it done by the dealer.
 
I have a 2011 Service Manual and it has pages on trailer Key Barrel installation but I was wondering what was in the warranty campaign "2010-13/service bulletin/trailer RT-622 - key barrel installation" and if the campaign procedure had some fix in it beyond what is in the service manual?
 
I guess I do not need to worry about it. The dealer claims they checked the VIN of the trailer and the mentioned warranty campaign did not apply. :clap:
 
I just purchased an Aluma Trailer MCT and it has a 5-pin connector. Is there an adaptor available to convert it to a 4-pin connector which will plug into the BRP hitch without modifying?

Update: I just took a closer look at the connection module on the hitch and it's a round connector - how do I connect the trailer's harness to it?
 
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I just purchased an Aluma Trailer MCT and it has a 5-pin connector. Is there an adaptor available to convert it to a 4-pin connector which will plug into the BRP hitch without modifying?

Update: I just took a closer look at the connection module on the hitch and it's a round connector - how do I connect the trailer's harness to it?
The BRP connector is a 9-pin connector (it uses 6/7 pins). There is no commercial adapter available. To connect to a 5-pin trailer you can either make an adapter, or change the trailer connector to a matching unit. The Deutsch connector parts are available online, but the best way is to purchase the BRP 2010 Trailer Tongue Harness P/N 710002029. Do not use the 2011/2012 Pole Harness, it is made for a 4-wire trailer. Once you get the harness, you can either fabricate an adapter using an additional 5-pin trailer socket, or you can wire the new harness directly to your trailer. The wire identities are labeled on the harness. There will be an extra brake light wire, just choose one or the other and tape off the unused one. Be sure and leave enough length to reach the Spyder connector. It is farther from the hitch than normal.
 
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