Front Sprocket

[wrbrown]

I understand that the front sprocket is to be checked at 6000 miles. Does that mean to remove the belt, , remove the sprocket, inspect the splines, then reinstall and torque ?
If so, then should there be any type of lubricant applied to the splines and is the correct torque 81 ft.lbs ?
I would like to do this myself so any advice would be appreciated
Thanks.

 

[AMTJIM]

I believe it's in regards to the hardware and torque, the hardware loosening up. Being loose causes play between the spline and sprocket, shearing teeth between the spline and/or sprocket. Good to check the torque if nothing else, once the sprocket starts slipping, shaft and sprocket will need replacement.

 

[NancysToy]

Dec 7, 2009
Models: 2010 RS/RT, 2009 GS, 2008 GS
Model number: All
Spyder recommended maintanance
No. 2010-1

Front sprocket screw retightening (all models) at 10,000 km (6,000 miles) one time.

On certain vehicles, it is possible that the front sprocket assembly settles reducing the clamping force of the screw on the front sprocket. To maximize durability of the splines, the screw must be retightened.
Warning: Screw must be torqued to 110 N/m to 120 N/m (81 lbf/ft to 89 lbf/ft).

You can do this without loosening or removing the belt, although if you want to check for spline damage you would have to loosen the belt. Just loosen the bolt a few turns, then retorque. No lubricant is specified. I would do it dry. If you do use lubricant or Loctite, the torque should be increased.

The loosening is a result of the tapered ends of the shaft splines wearing slightly, allowing the sprocket to not be bottomed out, and have play lengthwise on the shaft. If your sprocket shows rotational play, the shaft and/or sprocket are shot, and must be replaced. No amount of tightening the bolt can save them for long at that point.

 

[BajaRon]

You can do this without loosening or removing the belt, although if you want to check for spline damage you would have to loosen the belt. Just loosen the bolt a few turns, then retorque. No lubricant is specified. I would do it dry. If you do use lubricant or Loctite, the torque should be increased.

The loosening is a result of the tapered ends of the shaft splines wearing slightly, allowing the sprocket to not be bottomed out, and have play lengthwise on the shaft. If your sprocket shows rotational play, the shaft and/or sprocket are shot, and must be replaced. No amount of tightening the bolt can save them for long at that point.

Agreeded except in place of loosening the drive belt I would take the lower bolt out of the rear shock. This way you can lower the swing arm to a point where the drive belt is loose without changing the adjusters. When you just button everything back up you're done. You don't have to mess with tension or alignment issues with the drive belt.

 

[NancysToy]

Good point, Ron. That is certainly the easiest way to loosen the belt. With the RT, though, be sure and disconnect the ACS sensor, to avoid damage to the sensor, bracket, or link. One other thing, that I forgot. After retorquing the bolt, be sure to mark it with an "X" with a permanent marker, to indicate that it has been retorqued per TSB requirements. Warranty coverage of any sprocket or shaft problems could depend on it, if your dealer doesn't perform the service.

 

[wrbrown]

Thanks everyone for the info :thumbup:. Do you know if the correct torque 81 foot lbs. ?

 

[wrbrown]

IGNORE my last post about the torque, I missed it when reading through the replies.pps:

 

[Freddy]

Thanks everyone for the info :thumbup:. Do you know if the correct torque 81 foot lbs. ?

81 is at the bottom end of recommended torque if I remember correctly. Tho others may disagree, I did mine to 110 and even with ali pulley was good - OEM one on now and solid as - the well engineered piece of machinery it should have been from the factory.

 

[wrbrown]

Concerning the sprocket inspection info I had asked about, brought me to a new question.
When I put the sprocket back on,( which I would like to do with the belt still off so that its tension does not affect the tightening of the bolt,) how do you prevent the sprocket from turning when you are applying the torque to the sprocket bolt ?

 

[NancysToy]

Concerning the sprocket inspection info I had asked about, brought me to a new question.
When I put the sprocket back on,( which I would like to do with the belt still off so that its tension does not affect the tightening of the bolt,) how do you prevent the sprocket from turning when you are applying the torque to the sprocket bolt ?

If you are thinking of removing the sprocket and external flywheel during this process, you may wish to rethink things. Front sprocket removal/replacement is an exacting process with the new version sprocket, and will require new bolts and a specific procedure to be followed. BRP warns their techs about this in the shop manual, and that usually means something. I would not remove the belt or sprocket unless I suspected damage, which is unlikely with only 6K miles on the Spyder. Just loosen then retorque the sprocket...it's that simple. An intact sprocket will not move on the shaft, so the belt can remain under tension. There is really no need to go to great lengths. If you do decide to take off the belt (instead of merely loosening it or leaving it alone), do not remove the sprocket flywheel, no matter how tempting it may be.