Havasu Rider
New member
I was just wondering if when you check the oil and it is on the add mark, how much do you add to bring it up to full? It is a PATA to keep adding and checking until it is full. :dontknow:
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Oil Check
- Thread starter Havasu Rider
- Start date
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
According to the shop manual, the difference between the "Add" mark and the "Full" mark is 0.5 L (0.52 qt). Be sure you are checking the oil properly before you add. The engine should be at full operating temperature, not just up to temp on the water temp gauge. Best to check right after a ride. You also need to screw in the dipstick, unlike most other vehicles. Be sure and follow the procedure to run the engine just before checking, to evacuate the sump properly, too.
Havasu Rider
New member
Thanks Scotty,
I added about half a quart today and it came up to just below full on the stick but I had to check it three times to make sure it was OK. I did not want to add any more and over fill it. Good to now I am OK.
I added about half a quart today and it came up to just below full on the stick but I had to check it three times to make sure it was OK. I did not want to add any more and over fill it. Good to now I am OK.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
As long as it is between the marks, it is OK. In fact, many GS Spyders prefer it lower...they don't blow as much oil into the airbox for some reason. Some SEs like it more toward the full mark, however, for more reliable shifting. That is a mystery in a dry-sump engine, too. It should not make a difference, but it sure seems to.
S
spydee owner
Guest
adding oil
You should stop wondering and do it once, then you will know.
The best way to learn is to do it. Way too many people do not try to fix or figure out something before "polling the audience" so to speak.
You will also remember once you do it.
You should stop wondering and do it once, then you will know.
The best way to learn is to do it. Way too many people do not try to fix or figure out something before "polling the audience" so to speak.
You will also remember once you do it.
Scotty, your thoughts on this. It was posted earlier and not my idea. You fill/top off your oil per the owners manual while the engine is hot.
The next day, when the engine is cold, you take a wooden dowl and stick it in the oil tank down to the bottom. Wipe the stick off and mark the oil level.
The next time you check your oil, with a cold engine, if it is below the mark on the stick, add to bring up to the correct level.
You don't have to screw with a hot engine, screw the dipstick in more than once, and it is very easy to add the correct amount of oil.
Do you see any disadvantages to this? I am going to do it and have not figured out how I would mess up checking the oil.
:spyder2:
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
The main disadvantage I see is that during the night, while the engine sat, oil could have leaked by the check valves into the sump, causing a falsely low level in the tank. In addition, ambient temperature variations could cause the level to vary significantly. The operating temperature of the oil is pretty constant for most engines, which is why BRP chose this method. It is not too hard to leave the Spyder running for a minute when you come back from a ride, remove the middle side panel, shut the Spyder off, and check the oil. You just have to get in the habit. I will grant that it is different than with most other engines, but it isn't too tough.
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
I've been doing some work on my RT at my dealer East TN ATV for the last couple of days and learned a few things. One is you can check your oil while the engine is running, I didn't know that and that's what we did and it worked fine. The other thing is I now know how to change the front spark plug without pulling any on the right panels or messing with the air box. That right there was a highlight for me. :thumbup:
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
I'm not sure how I would show it to you but what you do is from the left side you pull the top panels then you reach over the top of the valve cover and feel the plug wire. On some of the RT's I guess they are putting a ziptie on the bottom tab of the airbox cover, you'll need to cut that if you have one. Once you do that you can pull the cap and use something like the pic below with a push button release 3/8 ratchet wrench. I watched them do one and I couldn't believe it. You can do the same thing on the RS but you have more room on the RS.
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
It could save every tech some time. Go for it :thumbup:
draboo
New member
This is where I got my idea. I am switching to Amsoil on my next change (6,000) and will run 3,000 to 3,500 miles between changes. I can not always hit the 3K mark as my dealer is 50 miles away. I can not easily change my own oil due to a bad knee...and my dealer's tech checks a lot of stuff I would not know to do. It is a fun ride and they treat me very well...
:spyder2:
For what it's worth ...
... I just checked my oil while running, then shut the engine off, waited a minute and checked it again. There was only 1/8" difference in the two checks ... with the running engine being the lower of the two readings. I have no idea what that translates to in volume ... but not enough to concern my ryding style
.
Just my empirical contribution.
thehawk
... I just checked my oil while running, then shut the engine off, waited a minute and checked it again. There was only 1/8" difference in the two checks ... with the running engine being the lower of the two readings. I have no idea what that translates to in volume ... but not enough to concern my ryding style
.Just my empirical contribution.
thehawk
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