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Changing sparkplugs

Roger

New member
Before i do work on my spider i generally check threads just incase and to refresh my memory and noticed not to much on here about changing spark-plugs so here is my attempt to make things a little easier for everyone before i get started i will let you know that my roadster is an RS model but the plugs are all the same for RT.
Tools: ratchet several different lengths of extensions, 5/8 spark-plug socket
Spark-plugs: stock plugs are NGK R DCPR9E OR You can use these NGKDCPR9EIX Which are the Iridium plugs these are what i used also don't forget to buy some heat sink paste for the spark-plug threads.
First remove the top side panels on both sides these are the panels where your knees would be. before i go any farther i should let you know i do not have that massive air-box on my spider i have the kewelmetal aircleaner so if you have that box some people can change the plugs without removing it but it is a lot easier if you do. So now i remove the old plugs apply paste to the threads and and install and replace the panels and your done. Now before i forget the plugs should be gapped at .oo7-.008mm or .028-.031 inches i went with .030. BRP recommends changing them at 12,000 miles i did mine at 9,200. As i mentioned before i went with the iridium plugs on the recommendation of others and yes i could tell a difference and i am happy with them. if anybody has anything to add especially for the RT people please feel free to add on. and if i for got anything please correct me.
 
I can't emphasize this enough; When pulling the spark plug wires off'
BE VERY CAREFUL, They are easily damaged, And sometimes the damage won't show up right away.:gaah:
 
Not having that airbox to deal with on the front plug is a big plus. If you do be ready for :gaah:

The only thing I would add other than that is you can run the 8's and they seem to do better on the RT and are less likely to foul.
 
Not having that airbox to deal with on the front plug is a big plus. If you do be ready for :gaah:

:agree:

Trying to remove the airbox was a royal pain, especially when trying to get to a couple of the screws that are under the frame. It almost makes the Kewl Metal or Evoluzione intake worth the money for that fact alone.
 
I'm getting ready to do the first oil change on my RS-SM and the dealer sold me a set of plugs, along with oil filter, seals, and synthetic oil. I have yet to pick up a service manual, but do the plugs require changing at the 600 mile service?
 
I'm getting ready to do the first oil change on my RS-SM and the dealer sold me a set of plugs, along with oil filter, seals, and synthetic oil. I have yet to pick up a service manual, but do the plugs require changing at the 600 mile service?

Nope. Leave them in. You should get several thousand if not much more out of them...

Unless you are me... then you seem to go through them every 3k... :D
 
I'm getting ready to do the first oil change on my RS-SM and the dealer sold me a set of plugs, along with oil filter, seals, and synthetic oil. I have yet to pick up a service manual, but do the plugs require changing at the 600 mile service?

NA. The plugs should be good for 12 thousand miles, But I'll say one thing if you do change them at 6 hundred miles ,
You won't want to go though that again till another 12 thousand miles.:gaah:
 
My RS has done 26,700 k's (over 17,000 miles) so I thought it was time to change the plugs even though it was still running fine.

Getting the big air box out is a real pain,
SANY0227.jpg


After taking the top off the air box I found six screws that had to come out and most of them are hard to get at under the bikes top frame,
SANY0223.jpg


SANY0224.jpg


The six screws out and a couple of hose's disconnected and I wiggled it out
SANY0220.jpg


Room to get to both plugs now with the air box out of the way,
SANY0218.jpg


The plugs I took out still looked good, but in with the new ones and I won't have to do this job again for some time.
SANY0221.jpg
 
My RS has done 26,700 k's (over 17,000 miles) so I thought it was time to change the plugs even though it was still running fine.

Getting the big air box out is a real pain,
SANY0227.jpg


After taking the top off the air box I found six screws that had to come out and most of them are hard to get at under the bikes top frame,
SANY0223.jpg


SANY0224.jpg


The six screws out and a couple of hose's disconnected and I wiggled it out
SANY0220.jpg


Room to get to both plugs now with the air box out of the way,
SANY0218.jpg


The plugs I took out still looked good, but in with the new ones and I won't have to do this job again for some time.
SANY0221.jpg


hey did u clean out the throttle bodies as they look really clean and good pics
 
I can't emphasize this enough; When pulling the spark plug wires off'
BE VERY CAREFUL, They are easily damaged, And sometimes the damage won't show up right away.:gaah:


Is it worth using die-electric grease when refitting the leads onto the plugs for ease of removal next time?
 
I'm getting ready to do the first oil change on my RS-SM and the dealer sold me a set of plugs, along with oil filter, seals, and synthetic oil. QUOTE]

I think that you might have forgotten the Ibuprofen... :roflblack:
I'm thinking that I'll need to get some of Baja Ron's high-zoot plugs and plan for a Wintertime cuss-fest! :shocked:
 
Well, I gave Spyder a service today after the big trip: spark plugs (with heatsink paste applied to threads and die-electric grease to boots), oil &filter, fuel filter, grease front suspension (quicker &easier to remove frunk than I thought), new front tyres, original drive pulley and new belt (see 30 tooth thread) adjusted parkbrake lever on spline at rear wheel. All good now and ready for the next big trip - but that'll be a while.:sour:


I'd previously fitted 8mm head bolts to airbox mount to aide in ease of removal/install.

_Airbox.jpg
 
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