Brake bulb win

[Neez]

I've so had it with BRP's cumbersome method of changing out brake light bulbs that I decided to approach the chore from a different angle. I removed the wheel well spalshpan and rear tail cone and looked inside. It occurred to me that the only thing stopping me from pulling the bulb sockets out of the lenses by hand was a strip of useless plastic at the back bottom of the lens. Plastic surgery was in order. I trimmed a piece large enough to allow clearance off the strip using diagonal pliers as nippers. Now I just reach in, undo the wire connector, turn the socket clockwise, and pull the socket and bulb out the back of the bike. No more removing side panels, no more undoing lens screws. My Givi side bags stay on the rack.

So, how much time do I save? Just for fun I had my wife time me while I demonstrated a bulb change. Bear in mind that I use Dzus fasteners on my splashpan.
Remove splashpan and tail cone, 70 seconds.
Undo connector, remove socket, 50 seconds.
Replace bulb, replace socket, fasten connector, 50 seconds.
Replace tail cone, and splashpan, do up rear screw, 262 seconds.
Total job, 7 minutes, 12 seconds.
Tools used: electric screwdriver with a Torx bit for rear screw, small screwdriver to release tabs on tail cone. Job is easily done at roadside.
Note: Not sure if this idea will work for Spyders with frame mounted luggage racks. More plastic removal might make it happen.

 

[bjt]

Cool. :thumbup: I'm going to look into doing this as changing a taillight bulb on my Spyder is going to be a major undertaking with the Kewlmetal rear rack I just put on. I know you said it's useless but what do you think the purpose was for that strip of plastic you are cutting away?

 

[Neez]

Cool. :thumbup: I'm going to look into doing this as changing a taillight bulb on my Spyder is going to be a major undertaking with the Kewlmetal rear rack I just put on. I know you said it's useless but what do you think the purpose was for that strip of plastic you are cutting away?

I dont see any use for it, unless it adds some strength to the lens box. I didn't cut too close to the corner edge for that reason. Everything seems to work OK.

 

[Some Guy]

Good idea! :thumbup: Thanks!

 

[docdoru]

NMN L.E.D's :doorag:

 

[Tom in NM]

I think . . . . .

. . . . . this ranks right up there with the trunk latch spring!

I think I will be able to work on this tomorrow, but I will let you know when/if I get it done.

Thanks

Tom

 

[jrbloise]

I've so had it with BRP's cumbersome method of changing out brake light bulbs that I decided to approach the chore from a different angle. I removed the wheel well spalshpan and rear tail cone and looked inside. It occurred to me that the only thing stopping me from pulling the bulb sockets out of the lenses by hand was a strip of useless plastic at the back bottom of the lens. Plastic surgery was in order. I trimmed a piece large enough to allow clearance off the strip using diagonal pliers as nippers. Now I just reach in, undo the wire connector, turn the socket clockwise, and pull the socket and bulb out the back of the bike. No more removing side panels, no more undoing lens screws. My Givi side bags stay on the rack.

So, how much time do I save? Just for fun I had my wife time me while I demonstrated a bulb change. Bear in mind that I use Dzus fasteners on my splashpan.
Remove splashpan and tail cone, 70 seconds.
Undo connector, remove socket, 50 seconds.
Replace bulb, replace socket, fasten connector, 50 seconds.
Replace tail cone, and splashpan, do up rear screw, 262 seconds.
Total job, 7 minutes, 12 seconds.
Tools used: electric screwdriver with a Torx bit for rear screw, small screwdriver to release tabs on tail cone. Job is easily done at roadside.
Note: Not sure if this idea will work for Spyders with frame mounted luggage racks. More plastic removal might make it happen.

Neez,

I'm glad I found this post! :bowdown: The running/brake light bulb blew a filament (running). I have the BRP Sport Rack and BackRest on my SE-5. The standard proceedure to change a simple light bulb would have been a major P.I.T.A!!!!!!

I followed your advise and did it. Now all I have to do is remove the rear tire splash panel and easily remove the bulb and socket. :clap:

John

 

[Sarge707]

Neez,

I'm glad I found this post! :bowdown: The running/brake light bulb blew a filament (running). I have the BRP Sport Rack and BackRest on my SE-5. The standard proceedure to change a simple light bulb would have been a major P.I.T.A!!!!!!

I followed your advise and did it. Now all I have to do is remove the rear tire splash panel and easily remove the bulb and socket. :clap:

John

I did the same mod and to change the lights never again you can get Pilot Automotive Brand LED,s (2 Pack for $24.99 at PEP Boys).
Make sure there Model LI-1157 RCZ. Several have used them here and they work Fine with the OEM system.:2thumbs:
You may have to ask for them as there no always with the standard lights!

 

[1VENOM]

:2thumbs: nice job with pics opcorn:.

 

[jrbloise]

Sarge707

I did the same mod and to change the lights never again you can get Pilot Automotive Brand LED,s (2 Pack for $24.99 at PEP Boys).
Make sure there Model LI-1157 RCZ. Several have used them here and they work Fine with the OEM system.:2thumbs:
You may have to ask for them as there no always with the standard lights!

I found and ordered the Pilot LI-1157 RCZ from Amazon. They'll be here by this Friday!

John

 

[dltang]

Well, since I have the back end of my Spyder all torn apart so that I can add the Kewlmetal rack, I thought I would go ahead and do this mod. Those darn lights are a bear to get to so it is worth a try. They will be even harder after the rack is installed. I may go look for the LED's you all suggested tomorrow morning too. Here are a couple of photos. I notched it out with a dremel.

 

[bone crusher]

Well, since I have the back end of my Spyder all torn apart so that I can add the Kewlmetal rack, I thought I would go ahead and do this mod. Those darn lights are a bear to get to so it is worth a try. They will be even harder after the rack is installed. I may go look for the LED's you all suggested tomorrow morning too. Here are a couple of photos. I notched it out with a dremel.

I have ESI's LEDs...this should mean that I'll never have to worry about changing anything back there...plus, they're a lot brighter!

 

[Firefly]

If you get the Pilot LI-1157 RCZ from Pep-boys-- be VERY careful when putting them in-- twist too hard and the solder joint breaks on them!

I hacked mine open and installed some extra LED pucks I got from ESI....:thumbup:

 

[dltang]

If you get the Pilot LI-1157 RCZ from Pep-boys-- be VERY careful when putting them in-- twist too hard and the solder joint breaks on them!

I hacked mine open and installed some extra LED pucks I got from ESI....:thumbup:

Thanks Dan.

 

[bjt]

Well, since I have the back end of my Spyder all torn apart so that I can add the Kewlmetal rack, I thought I would go ahead and do this mod. Those darn lights are a bear to get to so it is worth a try. They will be even harder after the rack is installed. ... I notched it out with a dremel.

Nice, glad you did that tonight.

 

[dltang]

Well, we no longer seem to have a PEPboys in Flint. I tried a different brand JamStraight LED's and they threw codes. So I put regular bulbs in for now. I will order the Pilot LED's from Amazon. Oh well, it was worth a try.

I can change a bulb now without taking the plastic housing off though. That is nice. In the previous photo where I notched it, I just finished taking that side all the way off and filed it clean. You wouldn't even know the difference.

 

[Beon1]

Brake Light housing

I used a fine tooth sawzall blade. I didn't remove the lenses. I just felt with my fingers to judge the amount to be cut off and used the sawzall blade by( HAND )and it cut the plastic like butter.

 

[JJW SpyderRider]

I did mine earlier this week using a dremal with a cutting wheel after seeing this mod on Spyder Lovers. It was all done in place and I can now get the bulb out even with my big fingers :yes:.

 

[dltang]

Well, I ordered the Pilot LED's 1157 RCZ and they were $16.95 for the pair, delivered to my home. I hope these work. I really would like to have the LED's vs the regular bulbs. If not, no big deal. I just don't want to put a lot of money into them so I am trying the Pilot's. It appears other riders have gone this route with no real issues.

 

[Some Guy]

Well, I ordered the Pilot LED's 1157 RCZ and they were $16.95 for the pair, delivered to my home. I hope these work. I really would like to have the LED's vs the regular bulbs. If not, no big deal. I just don't want to put a lot of money into them so I am trying the Pilot's. It appears other riders have gone this route with no real issues.

I've had them in my Spyder for over a year now with no problems.

Like Dan said, be careful when you twist them into the socket.