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Need pics and help on Riser options...

There's already places on the kewlmetal risers to mount stuff like gps and other stuff I love mine the options for bar position are what makes the kewlmetal risers the better choice
 
I had mine installed by a certified brp mechanic and I got brp 1 inch riser and the kewlmetal risers too and I got full bar articulation also :-)
 
6'6" Kewlmetal Risers

Kewlmetal risers work for me 6', tall upper. These probably have the most adjustment of any out their.

I'm 6'6". Just got mine. Bought it with these same risers installed. Between the flexibility of the risers and my driver's backrest, I sit straighter than I do in my SUV. NO back stress:clap:. And they're black!:2thumbs:
Dash_view_w_inserts.jpg


Kuryakin_grips_KewlMetal_risers.jpg
 
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Do the Heli bars still allow for the locking of the steering wheel?

Man this is tough to decide on... lol
 
Another question... What is this locking thing a few of you talk about? My steering wheel still moves around no problem with the power off and key out :dontknow:
 
Another question... What is this locking thing a few of you talk about? My steering wheel still moves around no problem with the power off and key out :dontknow:


Some of these options do not allow the steering to be locked. With ESI's for example, you can still lock the steering.

You do know the steering can be locked by turning the bars completely left or right and then turning the key CCW?
 
Some of these options do not allow the steering to be locked. With ESI's for example, you can still lock the steering.

You do know the steering can be locked by turning the bars completely left or right and then turning the key CCW?

No I did not know that. Never even thought of it. Was this the same as the RT? We tow a lot (Spyder in trailer) and never had an issue (Washington to California and back) with the RT steering moving. Now we have had the entire bike walk sideways...

Our Spyders are mostly parked at our business or in it's garage stall most of it's parked life. So I never even thought about the need to lock...
 
No I did not know that. Never even thought of it. Was this the same as the RT? We tow a lot (Spyder in trailer) and never had an issue (Washington to California and back) with the RT steering moving. Now we have had the entire bike walk sideways...

Our Spyders are mostly parked at our business or in it's garage stall most of it's parked life. So I never even thought about the need to lock...

Three reasons to lock:

1. Just in case someone takes it out of gear while parked (on an incline), it won't roll as far; it will try to go in a circle.

2. In case the parking brake doesn't hold, it won't roll too far.

3. It makes it harder to steal.
 
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Please explain the locking procedure again if you have the Helibar riser. I don't know what CCW is.

It might be nice to still be able to lock the steering.

I must be dumber than dumb sometimes. CCW is counterclockwise! Duh!!! I honestly don't know if the steering still locks or not. I haven't tried to do it. I should try these things out on my own before asking really dumb questions. Not my best day today.
 
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I think I will just go with the HELI bars/GPS-12v plug in and wiring. Seems to be the best overall choice as I cannot bring myself to cut the bars on a brand new bike...

Now where do I find a discount code? :ohyea::thumbup:
 
I think I will just go with the HELI bars/GPS-12v plug in and wiring. Seems to be the best overall choice as I cannot bring myself to cut the bars on a brand new bike...

Now where do I find a discount code? :ohyea::thumbup:

Went with ESI and had the dealer cut the bars...it's really not a big deal and they make a big difference. If you want your bars back, you can get them from the dealer relatively cheaply.

I have found my ESI handlebars to be quite functional. If you look at what else is available, the lines of the ESI handlebars match the bike far better...they look like part of the bike whereas some of the other options really stick out like a sore thumb.

You should see a bike or two with each mod before making a choice. If I had to do it all over again, I'd still go with the ESI handlebars...but hey, there's something for everyone!
 
Went with ESI and had the dealer cut the bars...it's really not a big deal and they make a big difference. If you want your bars back, you can get them from the dealer relatively cheaply.

I have found my ESI handlebars to be quite functional. If you look at what else is available, the lines of the ESI handlebars match the bike far better...they look like part of the bike whereas some of the other options really stick out like a sore thumb.

You should see a bike or two with each mod before making a choice. If I had to do it all over again, I'd still go with the ESI handlebars...but hey, there's something for everyone!

Ok.. So do the bars press into the factory position or how?

Additionally... If I left one inch on each original bar more than the instructions call for to allow for mounting points for aftermarket mounts (Thinking GPS -Ipod-etc)...


  1. Will I be able to mount the risers on the outer edge of these longer bars so I can mount to the inside these aftermarket thoughts?
  2. When angling the risers towards the driver does this cause the angle of the grips to turn in more or do they stay the same? (My issue is I need just a little more angle up and out from previous injuries in life to be comfortable on long drives)
 
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Ok.. So do the bars press into the factory position or how?

Additionally... If I left one inch on each original bar more than the instructions call for to allow for mounting points for aftermarket mounts (Thinking GPS -Ipod-etc)...


  1. Will I be able to mount the risers on the outer edge of these longer bars so I can mount to the inside these aftermarket thoughts?
  2. When angling the risers towards the driver does this cause the angle of the grips to turn in more or do they stay the same? (My issue is I need just a little more angle up and out from previous injuries in life to be comfortable on long drives)
1. Mounting the risers 1" farther out will make the cable length a real stretch. I doubt you can pull it off, but anything is possible.

2. Rotating the angle of the risers toward the rider does not technically change the angle of the of the grips, but as it rotates the axis that angle is centered on, it does in effect. If you want fully adjustable risers, in both directions (fore/aft and in/out) you will probably have to consider the new KewlMetal risers. I think they are the only ones with two axes of adjustment.
 
If you get the standard ESI 3" or 4" you'll have a place on each side to mount a RAM mount. Plus if you get the CHAD, that you mentioned in another thread, you'll have two more places for RAM mounts.
 
Man you guys are making this tough hahahahaha...

Ok still two questions...


  1. Do the bars press into the factory position or?
  2. Can I still mount my ISCI Hand Brake with the ESI risers?

Additionally it seems I only have one option and that is the SE5 4". With me needing black it now costs $280 before shipping, which is why I decided on the HELI's originally. That is just a huge cost for so little of an item. Remember, been dong this for a while off-road and Risers are a standard add on with every ride. I usually us Rox Risers... (Link) And their Anti Vibe ones are killer!
 
Man you guys are making this tough hahahahaha...

Ok still two questions...


  1. Do the bars press into the factory position or?
  2. Can I still mount my ISCI Hand Brake with the ESI risers?
Additionally it seems I only have one option and that is the SE5 4". With me needing black it now costs $280 before shipping, which is why I decided on the HELI's originally. That is just a huge cost for so little of an item. Remember, been dong this for a while off-road and Risers are a standard add on with every ride. I usually us Rox Risers... (Link) And their Anti Vibe ones are killer!
1. Not sure what you mean by "Do the bars press into the factory position?" The forward position and angle can remain as stock, but the bars would be 4" higher and slightly back due to the steering shaft angle. The bars can be moved further toward the front or rear, but that would change the hand angle somewhat from stock, moving the end of the grip somewhat further up or down. (This would be easier to explain in person, with a broomstick demo. :D)

2. There might be interference with the master cylinder for the ISCI brake. I'm betting that Evan can accomodate you somehow. I'd give him a call, and ask his recommendation.
 
I have been following this thread as well as reading a few others as I need to purchase a set or risers. I recently injured my neck (hyper extended - no real story to tell) and now need to ryde in a more upright position.
I opted to give a few $$ to ESI and bought the easy risers. They should be arriving just about when I no longer need a neck brace:pray:.
I'm looking forward to trying a new ryding position after 14K+ miles ryding in a stock position:doorag:
 
What I mean about the stock bars is this...

The stock bars I will be cutting. Folks here have mentioned they can be replaced. So how is this? Are they "Pressed" into position? Clamped? Bolted? Screwed? :dontknow:
 
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