XM Radio Hook UP Question, Help!!!

[SpyderBen]

I know nothing about electrical connections, therefore I need help, please.

Trying to connect my XM radio to Auxillary on my Spyder RT.

Problem: I keep getting short power interruptions in my radio.

Scenerio:

I obtained a MP3 cable to use in my trunk outlet (the 7 pin outlet), also used as the IPOD connection. I connected MP-3 cable to my XM Radio cable. For power I plugged into the 12 volt outlet in the trunk. The 12 volt plug on the XM Radio has a tag that reads (XM -- 5V DC 2000mA).

When I plug the radio into my car, it plays without any problem.

With this information, can someone tell me if I am overloading the outlet or provide any other helpful information.

Regards,
SpyderBen :doorag:

"Merry Christmas All"

 

[Phil]

Ben- are you sure its power interrupt and not audio?

 

[SpyderBen]

Ben- are you sure its power interrupt and not audio?

I get a distinct "POP" sound at the time of interruption and about 5 seconds later the play resumes. The interruptions occur about every 15 seconds

 

[Phil]

To confirm if it's power--
Can you watch your XM unit to see if it powers off then back on at these 15min intervals? From what you describe, it sure sounds like a power issue.

You should be getting a full 12 volts at the accessory outlet in the trunk. And it will have no problem delivering 2000mA (that's 2 amps) to your unit.

SOMETIMES the connection between the 12V plug and outlet gets 'iffy'. There's an old trick to use a 'PinkPearl' eraser to brighten up the contacts a little. You might do something like that to the plug side since that's pretty easy to do. IF you also want to do something similar to the outlet, just don't have anything metal in there!

A little bit of electrical 101... if the connection between the 12v plug and the outlet is iffy, it can cause what we call an IR drop. Basically it's a voltage drop. Your XM sounds like it is good with 5 volts (I'm guessing that is a minimum voltage) so your outlet would need to have a pretty serious film of stuff or corrosion to cause a drop from 12v to less than 5v.

 

[SpyderBen]

To confirm if it's power--
Can you watch your XM unit to see if it powers off then back on at these 15min intervals? From what you describe, it sure sounds like a power issue.

You should be getting a full 12 volts at the accessory outlet in the trunk. And it will have no problem delivering 2000mA (that's 2 amps) to your unit.

SOMETIMES the connection between the 12V plug and outlet gets 'iffy'. There's an old trick to use a 'PinkPearl' eraser to brighten up the contacts a little. You might do something like that to the plug side since that's pretty easy to do. IF you also want to do something similar to the outlet, just don't have anything metal in there!

A little bit of electrical 101... if the connection between the 12v plug and the outlet is iffy, it can cause what we call an IR drop. Basically it's a voltage drop. Your XM sounds like it is good with 5 volts (I'm guessing that is a minimum voltage) so your outlet would need to have a pretty serious film of stuff or corrosion to cause a drop from 12v to less than 5v.

Hi Phil,
I cleaned all contacts, then I tried with the engine Off and On. Same results. I also observed the XM and it appears that the radio was not dropping power or signal. However the Popping and loss of sound continued. The regular radio works fine by the way.

Your input is welcomed.

 

[SpyderBen]

Still looking for help!!

I connected a MP3 player to the cable and it played without interruption through the Auxiliary mode. I reconnected my XM and continued to get the intermittent disruptions with a "POP" sound as described in earlier memo.

Help, anyone.:chat:

 

[Phil]

Ben- sorry for the delay---

At the moment, I'm guessing the output amp on the XM. We've eliminated about everything else.

Try to find a way to connect the output of the XM to something else that will let you listen to the audio, like an AUX input on your car, or home stereo. Difficult, but... power the XM from the bike and make a long audio connection to your car. Another tricky and not throughly conclusive thing to try is to find a way to connect headphones right to the XM output. There will likely be what we call an impedance mismatch, but it might work. We're trying to find out if the audio XM itself has any issue ON the bike (interesting that it works fine in the car). I'm getting to loss point without touching the XM and bike with some meters.

There's the possibility that something in the bike's nervous system is interacting with the XM's circuitry. IF that's the case, there are all kinds of trial & error things to try to shield the guts of the XM and all input/output cables. There CAN be an AC component implied on the bike's DC (sorry for the tech stuff) that would only be seen with an oscilloscope and a few other toys.

Long story short- I'm close to stumped. Sorry.

 

[SpyderBen]

Some new information Re:XM Radio

Ben- sorry for the delay---

At the moment, I'm guessing the output amp on the XM. We've eliminated about everything else.

Try to find a way to connect the output of the XM to something else that will let you listen to the audio, like an AUX input on your car, or home stereo. Difficult, but... power the XM from the bike and make a long audio connection to your car. Another tricky and not throughly conclusive thing to try is to find a way to connect headphones right to the XM output. There will likely be what we call an impedance mismatch, but it might work. We're trying to find out if the audio XM itself has any issue ON the bike (interesting that it works fine in the car). I'm getting to loss point without touching the XM and bike with some meters.

There's the possibility that something in the bike's nervous system is interacting with the XM's circuitry. IF that's the case, there are all kinds of trial & error things to try to shield the guts of the XM and all input/output cables. There CAN be an AC component implied on the bike's DC (sorry for the tech stuff) that would only be seen with an oscilloscope and a few other toys.

Long story short- I'm close to stumped. Sorry.

Hi Phil,

I keep trying to figure out the problem with my XM. Here is my latest trial. I took my portable battery jumper w/a 12 outlet and connected the plugged the radio into it and the radio played for 15 minutes with no problem. The problem seems to be in my 12 volt outlet in the trunk of the bike. I wonder if it is the Amps provided, either being not enough or too much?

Still looking for solution.

 

[SpyderDen]

Sounds like you are loosing signal. Where is the antenna for the XM?

 

[NancysToy]

Hi Phil,

I keep trying to figure out the problem with my XM. Here is my latest trial. I took my portable battery jumper w/a 12 outlet and connected the plugged the radio into it and the radio played for 15 minutes with no problem. The problem seems to be in my 12 volt outlet in the trunk of the bike. I wonder if it is the Amps provided, either being not enough or too much?

Still looking for solution.

You can't provide "too many amps", the device being used determines the amp draw, not the maximum capacity of the circuit and socket. Doubt it is too little, either, since the Spyder RT outlet is rated and fused for 10 amps, which would be substantial for an audio device without an amplifier. I would guess that you have an intermittent power connection. Cigarette-type outlets are notorious for making intermittent contact, especially while riding. Sometimes this is aggravated by the plug on the device, which can be slightly different in the contact arrangement, or have spring-loaded contacts. Also, are you sure it isn't just the location itself, shielding the antenna from the XM signal?

 

[Phil]

Hi Phil,

I keep trying to figure out the problem with my XM. Here is my latest trial. I took my portable battery jumper w/a 12 outlet and connected the plugged the radio into it and the radio played for 15 minutes with no problem. The problem seems to be in my 12 volt outlet in the trunk of the bike. I wonder if it is the Amps provided, either being not enough or too much?

Still looking for solution.

Hey Ben....
Nope... Not likely the amps provided. It will give you up to 10 amps of 12v power on that outlet and I guarantee the XM unit needs far less than that so you're good to go. There's no way you can have 'too much power' for a device like the XM. As long as the voltage is right, you can hook it to 100 car batteries giving you 10,000 amps and all that will happen is it will run for a REALLY long time on those batteries :sour:

Your test was a really good one!! Good job :clap:. That isolates it to the power. Now we have to get a bit strange in our next test....

The 12volts DC that is supplied directly from batteries is guaranteed 'pure'. Picture a clothes line. Without any wind, it is straight and 'pure'. However sometime outside influences like a breeze or wind can put that line into motion and thus it's not 'pure'. DC from batteries can have the same problem when the power comes to you over wires. SOMETIMES those wires can pick up external noise (not audible, but electronic noise) and that gets added to the pure DC. Just like our clothes line, if the noise is enough, or just the right noise, it can cause bad things to happen to whatever is hooked up. Many times, on laptop power supplies and others like them, you'll see a round bulge in the low voltage side wire, just before it plugs into the laptop. That is actually a small device to help get rid of noise that can creep onto the low voltage and mess up your laptop, etc. SOME devices you plug into 12volt outlets will have internal filters (what we call them) but some either don't or in some cases the noise is too much for the internal filters to handle.

Without a few meters, I have no idea if this is your situation, but guaranteed, something is messy in your 12V outlet supply. So... what do we do? I really hate to have you spend money on a guess, but this might be an inexpensive way, IF... IF you want to try it---

GSI GGNF12 12 AMP Automotive Noise Filter
I found this on Amazon. It's probable that the GGNF12 alone might do the trick ($5). There are several options if you search Amazon for 'Automotive Noise Filter', or '12volt Noise Filter'. There are some more expensive too. You MIGHT try a place like Pep Boys or another local parts store to see what they might have.

The wiring will be REALLY simple. Be careful, but try it without fully installing it first to see if it will help.

 

[SpyderBen]

May have found solution.

After much trial and error, it seems that the speaker cable connection to my XM was not making as good a contact as possible. I changed the XM base and replugged my wires and the problem seems to be resolved. HOPEFULLY.

I am now having a bracket built for my handlebars to mount the radio. Can anyone give me advise on where to connect for a power source that will shut off and on when the key is turned off. I am not too keen when it comes to hooking up electrical devices and it seems that the dealer(where I purchased the Spyder) doesn't know a lot about installing after market items.

 

[NancysToy]

After much trial and error, it seems that the speaker cable connection to my XM was not making as good a contact as possible. I changed the XM base and replugged my wires and the problem seems to be resolved. HOPEFULLY.

I am now having a bracket built for my handlebars to mount the radio. Can anyone give me advise on where to connect for a power source that will shut off and on when the key is turned off. I am not too keen when it comes to hooking up electrical devices and it seems that the dealer(where I purchased the Spyder) doesn't know a lot about installing after market items.

Your best best for power is to have someone who understands this stuff wire in a relay powered auxiliary fuse block, like the Cen-Tech or Eastern Beaver units. There are also some marine units that would work. If you use a power outlet, rather than directly wiring a power cord for the XM, I suggest the Powerlet outlets. They are smaller than the cigarette-type outlets, and make more positive contact.

 

[SpyderBen]

Your best best for power is to have someone who understands this stuff wire in a relay powered auxiliary fuse block, like the Cen-Tech or Eastern Beaver units. There are also some marine units that would work. If you use a power outlet, rather than directly wiring a power cord for the XM, I suggest the Powerlet outlets. They are smaller than the cigarette-type outlets, and make more positive contact.

Thanks for your input. Where do I find the devices you mentioned?
I just went to Eastern Beaver and viewed their web site. Thanks very much.

 

[Sopher]

I may be able to add some help here.
Ben, what is the model of the XM radio you are using? I have the Pioneer XMP3 unit. It has a special car mount that allows a plug in for electrical from the 12v power outlet and and audio OUT and External antenea.

FCC regulations made them disable the portable Antenea and thus the need for the External wired Antenea (18' long but wrapped up!)

Now here is the part that may help you... I found that when I plug the RTS mp3 player lin into the Mount dock (Marked Audio Out) I got horrible sound. BUT the built in headphone jack on the XMP3 unit itself provided excelent sound.

Be sure the XM radio Antenea is mounted on the OUTSIDE of the bike as it requires direct line of sight to the sky. Most XM units have a memory buffer that accounts for short signal drops. One other test you can do... connect up a set of heaphones to that headphone jack and see if you still get a pop every few seconds.

Hope this helps.

 

[NancysToy]

Thanks for your input. Where do I find the devices you mentioned?

An Internet search will show you several options. So will a search on this forum. Eastern Beaver, Centech, or FuzeBlocks all have fuseblocks and relays. Powerlet Products has the outlets. Or a general supplier like Cycle Nutz or almost any online cycle accessories supplier can provide what you need. Many good motorcycle shops carry such products, too, and might even install them. Try one that caters to touring riders, like the BMW or Honda Goldwing dealer. You could also buy most components at an auto parts store, and fashion your own, but it takes more skill and knowledge.

 

[Phil]

An Internet search will show you several options. So will a search on this forum. Eastern Beaver, Centech, or FuzeBlocks all have fuseblocks and relays. Powerlet Products has the outlets. Or a general supplier like Cycle Nutz or almost any online cycle accessories supplier can provide what you need. Many good motorcycle shops carry such products, too, and might even install them. Try one that caters to touring riders, like the BMW or Honda Goldwing dealer. You could also buy most components at an auto parts store, and fashion your own, but it takes more skill and knowledge.

:agree: with Scotty. Ben you're at a point where you may need some outside help with the power. If I'mthinking a local bike shop (or possibly your dealer) that does a lot of electrical mods.