oil useage

[clueless]

well after my ride today pulled it in... now that I see how easy it is to pull off the middle left panel to get to the oil dip stick.

well while still warm let idle for 30 seconds. shut off. read oil level and its right at FULL mark :thumbup:

this is after 2,100 miles *1,600 since last oil change* on the bike so not burning any oil or losing any thru air filter so far.

 

[freebob]

well after my ride today pulled it in... now that I see how easy it is to pull off the middle left panel to get to the oil dip stick.

well while still warm let idle for 30 seconds. shut off. read oil level and its right at FULL mark :thumbup:

this is after 2,100 miles *1,600 since last oil change* on the bike so not burning any oil or losing any thru air filter so far.

Well that is some of the best I have heard on RT oil usage, Sounds like your good to go, Stay between the ditches..:congrats:...Freebob..:doorag:

 

[Rider Steve]

Always good to hear good news.

 

[NancysToy]

Keep an eye on the oil for a while. If you did not check it at first, it might have been overly full. Some have been. If that is the case, your oil level actually dropped, and might continue to do so. Checking after a ride is easy, and a good habit to get into. Make sure your grommets are glued in...you don't want to lose them.

 

[Dudley]

Lost the 2 on our RT today. The ones on each side of the panel for the oil check and the mirror opposite on the right side. The ones under the CanAm chrome logo.

 

[clueless]

Keep an eye on the oil for a while. If you did not check it at first, it might have been overly full. Some have been. If that is the case, your oil level actually dropped, and might continue to do so. Checking after a ride is easy, and a good habit to get into. Make sure your grommets are glued in...you don't want to lose them.

I was thinking that but the Spyder was serviced at the 500 mile mark and I have faith in my dealer. the mechanics have been pretty knowledgeable about maintenance work...

as far as grommets, i just applied some silicon spray to the grommets of the panel for the oil check... :2thumbs: as it was stiff getting it in via the old method (a little spit)... now easy pop on and off but still secure

wow i guess you can the stuff anywhere now:
http://www.cvs.com/CVSApp/catalog/s...id=Shopping_Feed_Products_Google_Free_Listing

 

[Tonga]

Keep an eye on the oil for a while. If you did not check it at first, it might have been overly full. Some have been. If that is the case, your oil level actually dropped, and might continue to do so. Checking after a ride is easy, and a good habit to get into. Make sure your grommets are glued in...you don't want to lose them.

Scotty is right, keep an eye on your oil because it might have been over filled. Best practice if a dealer does your sevice is to check it right after they do it and you have driven at least 30 minutes and get it hot, Mine was way over at first and I drained some out.

 

[canam9]

well after my ride today pulled it in... now that I see how easy it is to pull off the middle left panel to get to the oil dip stick.

well while still warm let idle for 30 seconds. shut off. read oil level and its right at FULL mark :thumbup:

this is after 2,100 miles *1,600 since last oil change* on the bike so not burning any oil or losing any thru air filter so far.

Same here. :ani29:

 

[Recon]

Side panel

Be absolutely certain that you get the oil panel on securely and keep an eye on it constantly. I tell you this from a bad experience, that you don't want to lose it as I did. Cost is over $300 for that piece of plastic and the chrome CanAm emblem. I was fortunate in having johnnyg spot mine on the side of the road, but that same weekend we were in Corbin and another ryder had watched his shatter under the wheels of a semi on 95. I now have drilled 2 holes in mine and secured it with a Tbolt instead of a grommet. To me the chrome screw on my panel is a lot cheaper than replacing it for $300.

 

[clueless]

Be absolutely certain that you get the oil panel on securely and keep an eye on it constantly. I tell you this from a bad experience, that you don't want to lose it as I did. Cost is over $300 for that piece of plastic and the chrome CanAm emblem. I was fortunate in having johnnyg spot mine on the side of the road, but that same weekend we were in Corbin and another ryder had watched his shatter under the wheels of a semi on 95. I now have drilled 2 holes in mine and secured it with a Tbolt instead of a grommet. To me the chrome screw on my panel is a lot cheaper than replacing it for $300.

Can you post pics? where and which parts did you use?

hmmm did the panels fall off due to the grommets being pushed thru and falling off? I found that spraying the grommet with a little silicon oil made it so much easier to put back on.

 

[sinkhole]

grommets...

The key to installing the panels with grommet/stud attachment is to make sure that the stud is alligned with the hole/slot in the grommet before pushing the panel in. A shot of silicone spray on the stud helps too. If the stud is not alligned with the hole, it is very easy to push the grommet through the hole in the frame, or even tear the grommet.

Another potential problem is not having the front filter tab engaged on both side panels. This is probably the main reason for loss of these panels. Without the front tab engaged, air can get behind the panel and pop the panel out of the grommets easily.

 

[Tonga]

The key to installing the panels with grommet/stud attachment is to make sure that the stud is alligned with the hole/slot in the grommet before pushing the panel in. A shot of silicone spray on the stud helps too. If the stud is not alligned with the hole, it is very easy to push the grommet through the hole in the frame, or even tear the grommet.

Another potential problem is not having the front filter tab engaged on both side panels. This is probably the main reason for loss of these panels. Without the front tab engaged, air can get behind the panel and pop the panel out of the grommets easily.

That tab in the front was not on a friends early edition RT. I think BRP decided to put it on mid production. It is a bit of a chore to get it fitted and that grommet is a pain in the butt. Yes to a bit of silicone but it does seem to loosen it up somewhat.

 

[clueless]

That tab in the front was not on a friends early edition RT. I think BRP decided to put it on mid production. It is a bit of a chore to get it fitted and that grommet is a pain in the butt. Yes to a bit of silicone but it does seem to loosen it up somewhat.

I do not have a tab in front of the panel. I have two grommets in the front part and the back toward the rear of the bike has one grommet and a small tab that hooks near the top rear.

 

[Tonga]

I do not have a tab in front of the panel. I have two grommets in the front part and the back toward the rear of the bike has one grommet and a small tab that hooks near the top rear.

Guess you have an early one. That tab holds the front of the side cover securely. Check it out on another Spyder and you will feel the tab at the mid point of the side panel aimed inward to hold the panel tight. I liked the original side panels with the quick release screws.

 

[clueless]

Guess you have an early one. That tab holds the front of the side cover securely. Check it out on another Spyder and you will feel the tab at the mid point of the side panel aimed inward to hold the panel tight. I liked the original side panels with the quick release screws.

thanks mine was built in Jan 2010 RTS..