Idea for venting heat

[Sopher]

I have few ideas that I could use some guidance and opinions.
First one:
I noticed that the air intakes are buried on the RT. What If I placed a leader pipe to that pointed more towards the front with direct line into the cold-air intake? (Maybe with a screen on it). I remember all the great threads on Lamont's Cold Air Intake versions and "Lampshades".

Second:
Along the lines of the above, why cant I add a 2" hose strategically positioned to allow Cold Air ram down the tube to cool off certain engine parts and provide more air flow. The 2" or 1.5" hoses used on sump pump lines are plentiful and cheap. more sturdy 2" or 3" WetVac hoses would work too.

Third:
A better radiator exhaust fan. Or more fans internal. It seems the radiator fan could be made more efficiently.

The 80degree plus summer heat especially the 90+ heat lately has been brutal.

 

[canam9]

I say go for it. Just remember to keep us posted.:chat: :ani29:

 

[clueless]

muzzy made metal replacement fans for the hayabusa, better air movement, didnt melt ect...

need someone to do same for RTs.

 

[NancysToy]

Have you gone into limp mode? If not, I'm unsure that you need more cooling. Remember that the system coolant capacity and radiator size are limited, and that the fan in normally sized to match. Too large a fan can also cause problems...especially when the weather cools. If it is a matter of rider comfort, your needs are more likely a way to move the hot air out of the bodywork...or better insulation and smaller gaps. If it is a matter of performance, something like a Juicebox would be the most appropriate.

 

[SpyderFun]

...Remember that the system coolant capacity and radiator size are limited, and that the fan in normally sized to match. Too large a fan can also cause problems...especially when the weather cools. If it is a matter of rider comfort, your needs are more likely a way to move the hot air out of the bodywork...or better insulation and smaller gaps....

:agree:

The amount of coolant in any heated system determines 2 things, first time to reach operating temperature after initializing the staring sequence and second, the maintaing of a "calculated" temperature range as determined by engineers in their op-specs ("thermo-hydrodynamics" fancy word for heating and cooling by use of a moving fluid).

ANY changes to "cooling" down the engine has an offset on the other side of the equation (ie: balance between time to reach initial warm-up temp versus a reducing lifetime of a component not at temp.).

PERSONALLY I want a ride that does not try to bake me regardless of outside temp. Unfortunately motorcycles do not have a "firewall" which both contains and deflects engine heat (and fire) away from the occupant(s). But liquid-cooling of an engine beats air-cooling any day!

Just some food for thought!

 

[clueless]

anyone know if the RTs are running leaner side due to emissions like Harleys they run lean from the factory

adding some fuel in the injection map helps them run cooler...

 

[Sopher]

Have you gone into limp mode? If not, I'm unsure that you need more cooling. Remember that the system coolant capacity and radiator size are limited, and that the fan in normally sized to match. Too large a fan can also cause problems...especially when the weather cools. If it is a matter of rider comfort, your needs are more likely a way to move the hot air out of the bodywork...or better insulation and smaller gaps. If it is a matter of performance, something like a Juicebox would be the most appropriate.

OK. I hear ya. But I cant help but think that moving the hot air out from the panels would help keep parts of the bike cooler and ME cooler. I do want to get a JB Pro, but I want to hear others try it first.

What about some replacement or additive to the coolant to get the temp bars down ?

I think since BRP is way up north, where the temperatures are cooler, the heat that pours off the RT is not so bad for THEM. But further south, when the temps het higher, so does the heat from the RT.

 

[clueless]

i have used water wetter before on my turbo hayabusa with good results .... hmmmm

http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10

 

[Sopher]

OK, I added Water Wetter. 4 cap fulls. No difference.

I just added a 2" flex hose cut from an old wet/dry vac. Washed it very well and inserted it into the front right air scoop.
It sits below/inside the right shock and then out to the front via the RT front end scoops.

The stock air intake seems very in-efficient. It points downward, take a sharp 90deg teun upward, then over the middle to air filter. I guess my idea of adding the 2" tube makes it more of an air-ram. I'll see.

I've been running with about 5 bars fairly consistently.

 

[Sarge707]

Left/Right plastic covers?

I took of the Left (Covers oil plug) and Right (Behind fan)under plastic panels off as Lamont and others have done and my Spyder ran at 4 bars at several 60 second stop lights recently without hitting 5 bars.
I did notice a difference and it was 89 -90 degrees out.
It even ran 3 bars:yikes: on some 45-50 mph country roads. (Which never happened before this summer?)
Once you remove them you will see that they really serve no purpose as the skid plate and main frame protect you anyway?

 

[clueless]

OK, I added Water Wetter. 4 cap fulls. No difference.

I just added a 2" flex hose cut from an old wet/dry vac. Washed it very well and inserted it into the front right air scoop.
It sits below/inside the right shock and then out to the front via the RT front end scoops.

The stock air intake seems very in-efficient. It points downward, take a sharp 90deg teun upward, then over the middle to air filter. I guess my idea of adding the 2" tube makes it more of an air-ram. I'll see.

I've been running with about 5 bars fairly consistently.

you need to mix the water wetter into your coolant so not sure you will get much benefit just adding to coolant overflow.

I drained my busa and took 50/50 premix and added water wetter to it then shook it up and added the new mix back into the bike.

 

[SpyderRider]

:chat: +opcorn: = :yes:

 

[grumpybob]

Need to add 3-4 caps full of Water Wetter per 1 quart of coolant, that should help make a difference.

 

[freebob]

Have you gone into limp mode? If not, I'm unsure that you need more cooling. Remember that the system coolant capacity and radiator size are limited, and that the fan in normally sized to match. Too large a fan can also cause problems...especially when the weather cools. If it is a matter of rider comfort, your needs are more likely a way to move the hot air out of the bodywork...or better insulation and smaller gaps. If it is a matter of performance, something like a Juicebox would be the most appropriate.

Well just remember the fan is controlled by heat sensor switch and cool weather operation is controlled by thermostat so size of fan would not be a factor but could help in extreme high temp areas...Freebob...:doorag:

 

[InspectorGadget]

Well I thought I should add my 2 cents even though I have not had a problem with the heat, even driving in this scorching Florida heat. I do notice the heat whenever I don't wear my riding boots and just have my shoes on, and place my feet on my splashguard footrests.
With so many asking what can be done I decided to try a fix.
I used a hole saw to bore 2-3" holes through the plastic shields. 1 behind the radiator and 1 in the splashpan.
I can feel the air being re-directed once the cooling fan comes on so in theory it is working as I expected. Whether it will reduce the felt heat on the right ankle is yet to be determined.
I have attached photos for your viewing pleasure.
in one of the views from below the spyder you can see up to the hole bored behind the radiator. I may not have had to bore the hole in the splashpan, as you can see the airflow would have exited over the top, but I felt it was needed.
C-YA RL

 

[Sopher]

OK. So I have an update. But its not what I was expecting. I dont think my RAM AIR 2" tube, is lowering the heat or doing any sort of cooling.
BUT and this a BIG BUT, an unexpected benefit is being gained.
For those that have read my other posts, I was complaining of a rough running engine/groan when going from 4th to 5th at highway speed.

Well, I believe that my AIR RAM TUBE is removing the air starvation and pumping much needed air into the airbox intake tube. The groan has gone away. In fact, the engine seems to run a bit healthier (by sound only). This is noticed epecially from 3rd to 4th to 5th when accelerating from an on ramp onto a highway.

I'll keep an eye on the gas mileage to see if that is affected (plus or minus).

So my conclusion is this is a good mod. Lets call it the Sopher AIR RAM.
I'll post details soon.

 

[altonk]

Line the Tupperware with infrared reflective metal film.

the heat radiates right through the plastic.

 

[Sopher]

Line the Tupperware with infrared reflective metal film.

the heat radiates right through the plastic.

And where would one get this? link?

 

[altonk]

here is a vendor most racing shops carry it

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?t...Barrier&form_prod_id=66,7_4251&action=product

 

[mooneych]

Multi-speed fan controllers

I discovered an aftermarket addition to the used 2009 RS I purchased 2 months ago. It turns out that this 5"x5" box that sits on a velcro strip behind the radiator is a programmable fan controller. It has 3 preset modes, and an infinite combination of hi/lo settings. The unit is made by SPAL, and the model is the PWM-V3. Check it out at www.spalusa.com
I'm still reading the manual, but it seems to do well in the hot Virginia sun.
Does anyone have any experience with these?

Well just remember the fan is controlled by heat sensor switch and cool weather operation is controlled by thermostat so size of fan would not be a factor but could help in extreme high temp areas...Freebob...:doorag: