• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Oil Change question

I wish my dealer would do it for $100. They charge for 2 hrs of labor @ $89 per hr. plus oil & parts, puts them well over $200. Needless to say I do my own oil changes.

:agree: The first time was sticker shock to say the least, and here I thought accessories were going to be the most expensive things for the Spyder.
 
I wish my dealer would do it for $100. They charge for 2 hrs of labor @ $89 per hr. plus oil & parts, puts them well over $200. Needless to say I do my own oil changes.

I highly recommend doing your own oil changes if you have the ability. You learn your machine, you will, most likely, do at least as good if not a BETTER JOB than your highly trained service department. You can use better oil and save a lot of money.

Other than the time element there really isn't any down side that I can see.

Look at it this way. Where else can you make $89 an hour?
 
I wish my dealer would do it for $100. They charge for 2 hrs of labor @ $89 per hr. plus oil & parts, puts them well over $200. Needless to say I do my own oil changes.

2 hours is way too much time to charge unless they are doing other things along with the oil change. I'd agree with an hour at the most but I feel that it's probably a lot less than that, closer to half an hour.
 
Yup, got the kit from Ken. So you have $17.62 plus the cost of whatever oil you decide to use. You can figure between $9.00-$12.00 per liter and you may take anywhere from 4-5 liters. My spyder took 4 full liters when I did my change. So you should be able to change your own oil from around $55-$75 if you replace everything new. That is why I don't complain if I have to pay about $100 or slightly less at the dealer. You see, after having done this myself, this job is a pain in the butt. But I am sure next time around I will still do it myself again. Besides, it will get easier as I get better at it.

It does get quicker and easier with time. I can do the basic oil change (not doing the oil strainer) in 1/2 hour. One thing that helps a bunch is to remove those stupid bottom splash pans-- and leave them off. Makes for a much cleaner oil change.
 
My dealer quoted me $300.00 for and oil change, :yikes::yikes:. I think he knew I was not going to have it done. The worst part he looked me straight in the eye when he said it. I got my stuff from Ken and I was extremely satisfied. He's a good guy. :thumbup:
 
My dealer quoted me $300.00 for and oil change, :yikes::yikes:. I think he knew I was not going to have it done. The worst part he looked me straight in the eye when he said it. I got my stuff from Ken and I was extremely satisfied. He's a good guy. :thumbup:

:yikes: indeed! That is just wrong.

I have heard is much more involved on the RT-- due to the various covers that have to remove to do it.

The techs at Cuba did mine with only removing the cover to expose the oil tank.:thumbup:
 
It's almost time for my 6000 mile services and I do not feel comfortable talking it to a dealer for this, I can do it no problem. My question is for the 6000 miles services how important is it for the dealer to do it, is there things that needs to be done by the dealer that I can't do and now after reading about the bulleting on the belt tension is this something I should have checked as well.
 
It's almost time for my 6000 mile services and I do not feel comfortable talking it to a dealer for this, I can do it no problem. My question is for the 6000 miles services how important is it for the dealer to do it, is there things that needs to be done by the dealer that I can't do and now after reading about the bulleting on the belt tension is this something I should have checked as well.

I am ready for my 9,000 mile service, and am in the same boat as you. I am still planning on changing my own oil, but am definitely taking it to the dealer for the torque specs on the sprocket bolt and the belt tension bulletins.
 
It's almost time for my 6000 mile services and I do not feel comfortable talking it to a dealer for this, I can do it no problem. My question is for the 6000 miles services how important is it for the dealer to do it, is there things that needs to be done by the dealer that I can't do and now after reading about the bulleting on the belt tension is this something I should have checked as well.

You can do most of the 6,000 yourself-- but they really need to plug into BUDDS and check some of the computer items, etc. out and perform any software updates.

I would personally forgo the recommended valve check until 12,000 miles.

As far as torquing the front pulley bolt and belt tension--- I found both of those easy to do.
 
Yes, I have come to the conclusion that I'll do the oil change myself. I do it on my Honda. Going to buy a case of Royal Purple and getter done!
 
:2thumbs: Just changed the oil and both filters and cleaned the oil tank strainer. I reused the crush washers and O rings no leaks. I used 10W40 blended torco motorcycle oil. Took it for a test ride and the spyder runs great.
 
:2thumbs: Just changed the oil and both filters and cleaned the oil tank strainer. I reused the crush washers and O rings no leaks. I used 10W40 blended torco motorcycle oil. Took it for a test ride and the spyder runs great.
:thumbup: !!


Good stuff.

Question: Did you replace the oetiker clamp with another oetiker? I replaced mine with an adjustable stainless steal worn clamp.

Cheers
 
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