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Buying a Demo 2026 Sea to Sky
- Thread starter DMcBiker
- Start date
Not @LisaMal, and admittedly, this is not quite so much of a 'fact of life' as it used to be; but basically, unless your dealer is exemplary, then if it's a new Spyder/Ryker, it NEEDS a proper wheel alignment by someone who knows what they're doing!
Most dealer techs don't; and not all wheel alignment techs do either; so you might need to search around for someone who knows how to align a Spyder properly!
pegasus1300
Well-known member
Find out if the warranty was activated when they put it in demo service. You warranty goes from the time it is activated, not when it eventually gets sold. Be sure that you know the warranty end date and keep track of it so that you can add the BEST warranty before the factory warranty expires if you wish.
Redbeard
Active member
It should be fine. My first Spyder was an F3. What fun. It was about 6 months old with 500 miles on it. This was from a private seller. What I DID NOT KNOW was how to properly check the oil level in the engine. Here is a copy/paste of what I wrote some time back:
To check the oil level, the manual states take it for about a 10 mile run, then let it idle for an additional 10 minutes, shut down the engine and immediately check the oil level. For me, I let it idle while I take off my gear (after a ryde) and open the garage doors, so it is more likely only a few minutes, but it gives the scavenger pumps plenty of time to pull the oil from where it is accumulating. If you hold a white napkin under the dip stick while checking the oil level it will make the oil level a bit easier to view & also it is easier to see in the daylight of the sun. AKA do it outside to make it easier on yourself.
Take the time to read the manual Cover to Cover several times. There is much useful info in there. Also give yourself time to get accustomed to ryding on three wheels. It took me some time to stop reaching for a front brake and clutch lever. To help you along learning about the Spyders, check out CoachBob3 on youtube for his many useful videos on Spyders. Here is one of Coach Bob 3 recently did:
. Titled
Lastly, spend some time reading the threads on this website. So much useful info to be gleaned. If you have questions, ask away, and also try to use the search option to locate something specific. If you can work on your own Spyder it will save you big bucks. These machines are not too bad to work on, ONCE you get used to them, yet simple things like oil changes you can do yourself in about an hour and you are not leaving your Spyder at a dealership for a week or two. These machines are a load of fun stock, straight out of the box, so don't feel pressured into adding every conceivable modification as soon as you see something which interests you. Have fun with it as it came from the dealership.
And when you post a question, suggestion, or anything else, please put your Model and year in with your question and any other pertinent info (like this is the first time this happened, or only when it rains, or when the engine is hot, etc.) This helps others drill down to a better resolution to your problem.
And as CoachBob would say, "Now go out and have some fun. Buy the motorcycle of your dreams. And if you are not having fun, you are doing something wrong". You will have a blast on the Spyder, I know I do.
"I am on my second Spyder. Something I did not know when I purchased my first one in 2021 (a six month old F3 limited with 500 miles on it) was how to check the oil level properly. These engines are a dry sump oil system. You DO NOT CHECK THE OIL LEVEL when cold or after sitting a couple of minutes (literally). Should you check the oil level then and the oil level shows full, it is much OVER FILLED. I would be suspect of purchasing it if the owner did not have the proper amount of oil in the engine. If they are unable to keep the oil level correct, how well did they maintain the rest of the bike?"
To check the oil level, the manual states take it for about a 10 mile run, then let it idle for an additional 10 minutes, shut down the engine and immediately check the oil level. For me, I let it idle while I take off my gear (after a ryde) and open the garage doors, so it is more likely only a few minutes, but it gives the scavenger pumps plenty of time to pull the oil from where it is accumulating. If you hold a white napkin under the dip stick while checking the oil level it will make the oil level a bit easier to view & also it is easier to see in the daylight of the sun. AKA do it outside to make it easier on yourself.
Take the time to read the manual Cover to Cover several times. There is much useful info in there. Also give yourself time to get accustomed to ryding on three wheels. It took me some time to stop reaching for a front brake and clutch lever. To help you along learning about the Spyders, check out CoachBob3 on youtube for his many useful videos on Spyders. Here is one of Coach Bob 3 recently did:
TOP 5 MISTAKES New Can-Am Spyder Owners Make. This video is also a good video as a refresher for experienced ryders also.
The more you drive it the more fun it becomes. I have been ryding a Spyder for the past 5 years and truly love ryding around. If you are used to 'counter steering on a motorcycle', getting used to a Spyder may take a little training to unlearn this. Instead I say use counter pushing. Say if turning left pull the handlebars toward your body with your left arm while pushing the footboards with the opposite (right) foot toward your body. This will make more sense once you are ryding around.Lastly, spend some time reading the threads on this website. So much useful info to be gleaned. If you have questions, ask away, and also try to use the search option to locate something specific. If you can work on your own Spyder it will save you big bucks. These machines are not too bad to work on, ONCE you get used to them, yet simple things like oil changes you can do yourself in about an hour and you are not leaving your Spyder at a dealership for a week or two. These machines are a load of fun stock, straight out of the box, so don't feel pressured into adding every conceivable modification as soon as you see something which interests you. Have fun with it as it came from the dealership.
And when you post a question, suggestion, or anything else, please put your Model and year in with your question and any other pertinent info (like this is the first time this happened, or only when it rains, or when the engine is hot, etc.) This helps others drill down to a better resolution to your problem.
And as CoachBob would say, "Now go out and have some fun. Buy the motorcycle of your dreams. And if you are not having fun, you are doing something wrong". You will have a blast on the Spyder, I know I do.
LisaMal
New member
I didn't, but the service guys in the dealership said it did. They performed the work before even handing the bike over to me. I've heard of other bikes with alignment issues (ie tires on the front not wearing evenly, etc).
Albec
Well-known member
Just curious, how much is the dealer willing to discount this Spyder as compared to a non-demo?
AndysF3S
Active member
Once you buy the Spyder you may find that it does not need a wheel alignment as stated above, it may need a simple ride height adjustment with the riders and gear on board on the front shocks only as once adjusted up on mine the skittish driving went away and I haven't had an alignment and am approaching 10,000 miles or 16,000 km.Not @LisaMal, and admittedly, this is not quite so much of a 'fact of life' as it used to be; but basically, unless your dealer is exemplary, then if it's a new Spyder/Ryker, it NEEDS a proper wheel alignment by someone who knows what they're doing!
Most dealer techs don't; and not all wheel alignment techs do either; so you might need to search around for someone who knows how to align a Spyder properly!
You do know that because of the front suspension design and the way steering works on our Spyders, making pretty much any changes when doing a 'ride height adjustment' is very likely to change the wheel alignment; so in order to do a wheel alignment properly, a good tech should set the ride height first; and to either task properly, whoever did either job should've at least checked the other part of it too, don't you??
AndysF3S
Active member
If you start by doing a ride height adjustment it changes the toe in and toe out, if the ride height is set first to where the factory spec says it should be the toe in/toe out will most likely be within spec (because in most cases the ride height has been set for a lighter rider from BRP)
Ride height adjustment should be set by the dealership when you buy a new Spyder and the chances of needing a wheel alignment will be close to nill. When I bought the Spyder there was no mention of checking ride height and I thought the skittish handling was normal until I downloaded and read the manual; something that most owners don't do.
Since I read the manual, did the adjustment and got great results, I am well aware what happens with the front end. By raising the front ride height to where it was supposed to be; I went from a toe in situation to a tiny toe out which was all that was required to correct the handling without having to pay for an alignment. It's my understanding that the assembly at the dealership does not require them to check the wheel aligment after assembly and the shocks come preassembled, so ride height is whatever the shocks were set to from BRP. If I'm wrong than I will stand corrected.
If you believe that all new Spyders need an alignment, its your money.
Ride height adjustment should be set by the dealership when you buy a new Spyder and the chances of needing a wheel alignment will be close to nill. When I bought the Spyder there was no mention of checking ride height and I thought the skittish handling was normal until I downloaded and read the manual; something that most owners don't do.
Since I read the manual, did the adjustment and got great results, I am well aware what happens with the front end. By raising the front ride height to where it was supposed to be; I went from a toe in situation to a tiny toe out which was all that was required to correct the handling without having to pay for an alignment. It's my understanding that the assembly at the dealership does not require them to check the wheel aligment after assembly and the shocks come preassembled, so ride height is whatever the shocks were set to from BRP. If I'm wrong than I will stand corrected.
If you believe that all new Spyders need an alignment, its your money.
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