Hi to all and I gotta say this thing is so much fun! Coming from an RT Limited, familiar with most aspects of this vehicle, but I have a question about the break-in on the rubber CVT belt. I find it difficult to pull away from a stop smoothly unless I just do a burnout every time! I have seen the posts about applying the brakes, letting the throttle start to engage the belt, and then releasing it for smoothness, and I’m going to try that today. It’s really not a bother. I’m sure I can adjust. I just wanna make sure I’m getting the most out of the machine! Any other tips for a newbie on a Ryker, I am wide open for them! Thanks in advance.
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Ryker newbie - how do I break in the CVT belt? Any other tips?
- Thread starter Papa Hoc
- Start date
Mikey
Well-known member
Well for one I would not Power Brake your bike, if that's what they are telling you!! The only time you would brake and apply gas and let it go would be for a hill start. When you make that move with it, you're engaging your clutches and they are burning into your belt because you're holding the brake, that will make what we call in the snowmobile a FLAT spot! Then every time that spot comes around, you'll feel it, like a flat tire! You have to learn to roll into the throttle softly!!! You don't have a Pedal Box, or any added toys on this bike, 'do you? If there is a setting on the bike like Eco, Standard, Sport mode, and you're in Sport mode, then knock it back till you get used to it. Teach yourself to roll into the gas slowly! If the bike's jumping into going forward hard, then you may have a clutch hanging up also, or a worn belt, you may want to have it checked out because it should not jump into motion like that! Good luck, ride safe!
BajaRon
Well-known member
I'm with Mikey. Power braking your CVT is a good way to bring your drive belt to an early death and possible damage to your pulleys. You should be able to move from a stop without spinning the rear tire.
Of course, you need to go easy on a new belt for about 50 miles. Stop and go riding is not 'Going Easy'. A quiet road where you can just cruise and not have to engage and disengage the belt is best. Vary your speeds some to let the pulleys move the belt around if you can.
No hard acceleration, which power braking from a stop would be just that.
One of the best things you can do for belt longevity is to replace the OEM paper air filter on the right side with a K&N CM-9910 air filter. It will flow more air, resist clogging (which is important because the CVT filter handles a lot of air flow). Belt temperature is critical and this mod improves CVT cooling quite a bit.
When changing the belt, don't scrimp on cheaper products. These belts come in a variety of qualities from aftermarket suppliers. If you go this route, get the best belt they make (Gates, for example). We had a customer put a cheap belt on their Ryker thinking a belt is a belt. It blew up in short order doing a fair amount of damage to surrounding components which increased the repair cost.
Treated right, the belt will go beyond the recommended 10,000 mile service interval. But don't try to run it too long. A failed belt will usually take other components with it. Not to mention, it will leave you stranded.
We've also had OEM belts fail at much less than the recommended mileage (4,000 miles for example). We found the OEM paper filter completely clogged on this Ryker, which lead to the early demise. In any case, it is a good idea to check the right side air filter as a routine measure. Especially if you are running the OEM paper item.
Of course, you need to go easy on a new belt for about 50 miles. Stop and go riding is not 'Going Easy'. A quiet road where you can just cruise and not have to engage and disengage the belt is best. Vary your speeds some to let the pulleys move the belt around if you can.
No hard acceleration, which power braking from a stop would be just that.
One of the best things you can do for belt longevity is to replace the OEM paper air filter on the right side with a K&N CM-9910 air filter. It will flow more air, resist clogging (which is important because the CVT filter handles a lot of air flow). Belt temperature is critical and this mod improves CVT cooling quite a bit.
When changing the belt, don't scrimp on cheaper products. These belts come in a variety of qualities from aftermarket suppliers. If you go this route, get the best belt they make (Gates, for example). We had a customer put a cheap belt on their Ryker thinking a belt is a belt. It blew up in short order doing a fair amount of damage to surrounding components which increased the repair cost.
Treated right, the belt will go beyond the recommended 10,000 mile service interval. But don't try to run it too long. A failed belt will usually take other components with it. Not to mention, it will leave you stranded.
We've also had OEM belts fail at much less than the recommended mileage (4,000 miles for example). We found the OEM paper filter completely clogged on this Ryker, which lead to the early demise. In any case, it is a good idea to check the right side air filter as a routine measure. Especially if you are running the OEM paper item.
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Rykers have a hill hold setup, the brakes hold for 5 seconds on a hill according to the manual.
I find if I give the throttle a gentle blip before going helps.
Also the clutch on a Ryker does not engage until 1800 RPM.
You don't have to get on the throttle hard to go.
Hope this helps, Raven/Bruce
I find if I give the throttle a gentle blip before going helps.
Also the clutch on a Ryker does not engage until 1800 RPM.
You don't have to get on the throttle hard to go.
Hope this helps, Raven/Bruce
Thanks for the tip. I did do a YouTube video and the components in there are quite robust pretty impressive. Planning on doing a belt at 10,000 miles just to be safe. Just ordered the air filter and thank you so much for that. Have a great weekend and thanks to all who support forums worldwide.
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