Turns over - won't start

[WvTomCat]

I have a 2010 RT SE5 that I haven't tried to start for about 6 months. I keep it on a battery tender. I generally start it every month or so to keep it running. However, the last time I tried to start it the engine turns over great but it won't start. The interesting thing is the fuel gauge doesn't move off empty. There is a half tank of fuel. I thought it might be a fuse but everything looks ok. Any thoughts before I trailer it to the dealer? TIA Tom

 

[Gwolf]

All the fuses look OK ......... or all the fuses test OK?

There might also be relays, circuit breaker, or fuse links.

 

[jjc54]

When you turn the key on do you hear the fuel pump energize?

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Well Tom, it sounds like the perfect setup for a lot of water in the gas tank, simply due to condensation. 6 months over a WV winter, plus a lot of sitting time before that. You may have a quarter tank of fuel and a quarter tank of water. If you had put it in storage with ethanol fuel, then you most likely have phase separation. Either way, just get all that fuel out of the tank, syphon, hand pump, whatever you prefer, and start with fresh fuel.

 

[Mikey]

What snowbelt said, plus give it a little isopropyl, check to hear fuel pump!!! Good luck!! You know the worst think=g you do for your bike is start it a short time and shut it off, not good for the battery and everything else. Charge it up and throw a blanket over it and let it rest!

 

[BajaRon]

Make sure the kill switch is positioned for starting. Been there, done that. Though it's not a good sign that the fuel gauge is not responding.

 

[Mrmikey]

As others said, perfect for generating 1/2 tank of water and with the added bonus of corn gas besides. Drain the fuel system, hope the water hasn't damaged the injectors and top it up with fresh fuel and a bit of ATF to lubricate fuel system bits.
As Mikey said, starting it for a couple minutes is the worst thing you can do. Warms things up enough to generate condensation in the fuel tank as well as the oil sump but not hot enough to evaporate the moisture. It probably won't hurt the battery as you've got it on a tender to keep the charge up but a few minutes running without a tender will not top it up.

 

[WvTomCat]

When you turn the key on do you hear the fuel pump energize?

No - The fuel pump did not energize.

 

[jjc54]

Won't start without fuel. kinda strange...how about rodents. They like wires!

 

[WvTomCat]

Won't start without fuel. kinda strange...how about rodents. They like wires!

No rodents. I'm thinking that it's electrical. It has a half tank of fuel but the fuel gauge is on slam zero when the engine turns over.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

No rodents. I'm thinking that it's electrical. It has a half tank of fuel but the fuel gauge is on slam zero when the engine turns over.

Well then, pull out fuse F12 and test it or replace it with a known, good 15a fuse. Keep in mind that with the key on and kill switch on, the fuel pump only runs for 3 seconds. Then off until engine starts. Gotta listen close.

 

[Bfromla]

Please Give starter time(10-20min) to cool between attempts. Don’t take much to burn out.

 

[Mrmikey]

.....but the fuel gauge is on slam zero when the engine turns over.

Battery any good? Load test it, not just voltage.

 

[WvTomCat]

Well then, pull out fuse F12 and test it or replace it with a known, good 15a fuse. Keep in mind that with the key on and kill switch on, the fuel pump only runs for 3 seconds. Then off until engine starts. Gotta listen close.

Fuse looked good but I replaced it anyway. And, no, the fuel pump did not come on at all. And, no, it didn't start. I still think it somehow has to be electrical. Not sure what else to test?

 

[Gwolf]

Fuse looked good but I replaced it anyway. And, no, the fuel pump did not come on at all. And, no, it didn't start. I still think it somehow has to be electrical. Not sure what else to test?

The fuel pump is electrical and fuel pumps do wear out. It doesn't have to be a wire or a fuse. It could be a component.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Fuse looked good but I replaced it anyway. And, no, the fuel pump did not come on at all. And, no, it didn't start. I still think it somehow has to be electrical. Not sure what else to test?

Right from the shop manual... do a power test to the fuel pump. Start tearing panels off so that you can get to the connector on the pump. With the key on, 12v power is always supplied to Pin B. You can test that to ground to see if you have that. To run the pump. the ECM supplies the ground. Turn everything off and connect your test light or meter between Pins B and C to see if the pump gets power for 3 seconds when you turn on the key with the kill switch in RUN. If all that is good, then jumper 12v power from a source to the same corresponding pins on the pump itself and see if it runs. If it doesn't run, replace the pump.

If you've got a lot of water in there, probably a lot of corrosion. Good Luck.

Edit: Relay wise, if your instrument cluster is powering up normally, and you can operate the parking brake, then Main Relay 2 is working. And because it is cranking, then Main Relay 1 and the Pre-starting Relay are working.

 

[jjc54]

With the key on see if you have voltage feeding that fuse.