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Rear ACS/suspension on 2015 RT seems to have failed - anyone else? How did you address it?
- Thread starter Dmetcalf
- Start date
NorwegianRT
Active member
I have had the same issue with my 2012.
In my case I could hear the compressor running, but no air came to the bag. I decided to dig out the compressor (there's a lot of stuff to remove) and it turned out the issue was a broken axle from the motor to the piston rod, so the piston was not moving. I was fortunate to find a used compressor on Ebay to replace the broken one and all is good now.
Regarding your friends issue, it could be various causes. I would start by digging out the compressor and try hook it up to a 12V battery to see if it is alive. If it is, then use a multi-meter and try to locate how far along you have power. I hope it turns out fine.
In my case I could hear the compressor running, but no air came to the bag. I decided to dig out the compressor (there's a lot of stuff to remove) and it turned out the issue was a broken axle from the motor to the piston rod, so the piston was not moving. I was fortunate to find a used compressor on Ebay to replace the broken one and all is good now.
Regarding your friends issue, it could be various causes. I would start by digging out the compressor and try hook it up to a 12V battery to see if it is alive. If it is, then use a multi-meter and try to locate how far along you have power. I hope it turns out fine.
Mikey
Well-known member
A lot of us have had issues with the compressor on our bike! Some will dig into the system and try to fix it. It's a great system that works great while it works, but when it goes, it's a piece of crap! You have an air bag and a less than great shock back there, and when one passes on you are riding on your frame. On the lesser style Spyders, they have a manual fill system where you set the bag at a sweet spot where it is comfortable, and you have the ride you want, no fuss, no muss, easy peezy. It will not take much to change your friend's system over to that, you just need to connect the bag to the Schrader valve, there's plenty enough hose in there, all you need is a coupling from the auto parts store, they make them for air lines on big trucks! That bag is rated for 90 psi, but you will not need anywhere near that, I use 45-65 psi for my bride and I, only be careful, it fills fast! The fittings on the system have a ring you push in on the end, and pull out on the hose at the same time so you can disconnect them. Unhook the power to the compressor and the dump value and you're on your way for just a couple bucks! Or you can open your wallet up, fix the compressor, and hope it will hold up and not happen again! Do some homework, look at & read the similar threads down the bottom of the page, &/or do a search(top right of the page, just outboard of your username/profile) and read some of the compressor tales. Good Luck!
safecracker
Well-known member
After three compressors that went bad on my 2011 RTS, I removed all the automatic stuff and changed the system to manual as Mikey states above. My first compressor that went bad was the bolt holding the piston to the crank. Second and third compressors were due to bad one way valves (the check valve) on the compressor. The check valve should have a filter, to help keep road grime from entering the compressor.
I've have both an RTL and RT. One with ACS - working fine, and one without ACS. I appreciate the direct no compressor connection and just rely on the airbag. If the RTL compressor fails, I will just do a direct connection and go around the compressor. I've never heard of an airbag failure. Usually the connections or the piston.
Ps: Hello Norwegian RT! I'm still using the trunk lift and have made a few for friends!!! Absolutely the best invention ever!!
NorwegianRT
Active member
I'm dealing with an ACS issue right now with a 2021 Spyder RTL, the code was C210A
The fault code C210A, specifically on a Spyder RT or RTL, indicates a suspension control time exceeded issue. This often means the suspension system isn't reaching its target height or pressure within a specified timeframe.
I found a puncture in the airbag. I will report back with what I end up doing to repair it.
What is the process in changing to manual?
Mikey
Well-known member
You can do it two ways, get a piece of airline and unhook the hose on the bag and disconnect the hose from the Shrader and hook it up, or get an airline coupling and disconnect the two lines at the dump valve and hook the two lines together with the coupling! Air the system up and do a soap and water leak test! I took the dump valve right out of the bike and taped up the plugs so water and dirt wouldn't get in them. The fittings have a locking collar on the end you have to push and pull at the same time. It's easier than you think and it will only cost you a couple bucks, and you will never miss the compressor!!
If it is in the bottom, put some green slime in there. Not too much.
Mikey
Well-known member
If your compressors still working, I don't know if that's a good idea!
I do know that it IS a good idea to add a small amount of slime to your airbag if it is slowly leaking from some pin prick holes in the load bearing parts of the airbag. I know this thru direct experience on my own Spyder, and my experiences on the many other Spyders that I've 'fixed' this way, usually after their dealer has quoted a stupidly expensive fee for what they say is the ONLY fix they can offer for an airbag with minor leaks ie. completely stripping off the back half of the bike to replace the airbag, often also replacing the majority of or the entire ACS system along with it; and to add insult to the hip pocket injury, unless you radically change where/how you're riding, the replacement bag is very likely to suffer the same 'leak causing' issues very soon anyway!
So rest assured, adding slime to the airbag will likely work fine to seal off those tiny leaks occurring thru the pin prick holes caused by the bottom bits of the airbag grinding away on the swing arm &/or the lower 'piston', just so long as you insert just a small amount of slime into the airbag on the bag side of the compressor (maybe via a join in the air line or direct into the connector on the top of the bag itself once you've pulled the air line out.)
The compressor operating won't ever suck air back out of the bag when it operates &/or the suspension articulates if you've only added a small amount of slime, and you really shouldn't put in any more than a few teaspoonfuls of slime in there anyway. 
I have added a small amount of slime to many Spyder's with the tiny leaks some develop from extending the suspension to full droop and so, letting in/catching some fine grit &/or gravel or mud get in-between the bottom of the air bag and the plate where it presses onto the swingarm, pretty much all of them working fine for many 10's of thousands of miles since the initial leak
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