2022 F3S with Codes C0031, C00C6, and Limp Mode - what could be wrong?

[Dexterjada]

So, after installing LED headlights & fog lights, Codes C0031 & C00C6 have come up and it's in Limp Mode! Any help appreciated on how to get it out of Limp Mode or clear the codes will be appreciated.


I just installed a new Motobatt battery because my 1st hope and thought was that it was due to the trash Haijiu battery. The bike had been sitting, so I noticed I lost a little air pressure in all 3 tires, and the Haijiu battery hadn't been fully charged before I put the fog lights in and tested them. After the install, on the way to get air in the tires, these codes tripped. I've tried riding with as much throttle as I can give under VSS circumstances, and it won't kick outta Limp Mode. I'm at 2600 miles, so what would/could possibly be wrong?

 

[Mikey]

You may have to go over your wiring that you have done again, check for polarity, and good tight connections, you have pissed off the can bus gods by the sounds of it! Good luck, there is nothing worse than a electrical gremlin!

 

[Dexterjada]

You may have to go over your wiring that you have done again, check for polarity, and good tight connections, you have pissed off the can bus gods by the sounds of it! Good luck, there is nothing worse than a electrical gremlin!

I have unhooked the fog lights, being that they were installed right before the codes tripped; unhooked the old Haijiu battery for a Motobatt; and I'm still getting limp mode. I'll pull each fuse one by one next, to see if I possibly blew one.

 

[Mikey]

You put a FULL charge in your battery before install, right?

 

[Dexterjada]

You put a FULL charge in your battery before install, right?

The battery that was in at the time of me installing the fog lights was the Haijiu, and I hadn't charged it in about 10 days. So after thinking it was the battery, I ordered in a new Motobatt.

 

[Peter Aawen]

The battery that was in at the time of me installing the fog lights was the Haijiu, and I hadn't charged it in about 10 days. So after thinking it was the battery, I ordered in a new Motobatt.

The Haijiu may well have been at least part of your initial problem, Dexter, but I'm pretty sure that Mikey's question was to determine if you had charged the NEW Motobatt battery before installing it - cos if you didn't, it's also quite likely that the supplier/retailer didn't, and that could be why you've still got a problem!!

Even brand new batteries need to be properly charged before installation, but if they're lucky, most will only ever get a quick 'that'll do' type cursory cover charge by the supplier/retailer before they sell the new battery to you/install it for you, cos they'd need to have it on charge for at least about 8 hours before selling it to you, and you want it now! Doing that 'quick charge' thingy might be sorta OK for an old school car with a carby that doesn't need too much in the way of electrical power to get things going and keep it all running, cos with that sort of low level power demand, the alternator stands some small chance of giving your new battery a reasonable charge if you take it for a good long drive after installing it, but even if it does, it's still not great cos it won't ever fully charge the battery, which at best, will shorten your new battery's potential life! However, for our power hungry Spyders (& many other modern heavily computer dependent vehicles) it's rarely good enough to start & run the engine and all the computers/added electrical load, so many new batteries often just don't have enough of a charge to do all that, all for the lack of the 'proper charge' they are meant to get BEFORE installation!!

So, the important question here is, did YOU properly charge your new Motobatt battery before installing it?? If you didn't, that might be why you still have this problem - a problem that may possibly be resolved by putting your new Motobatt battery on a proper charger for at least 8 hours before taking your Spyder out for a ride again. And once you've given it that proper charge, even if the same Codes &/or Limp Mode come up again upon starting, try carefully taking it for a bit of a ride locally - it often takes riding for a mile or three to let the computers realise that everything is good now that you've got a properly charged battery that's capable of carrying the electrical load.

Just Sayin'

 

[Dexterjada]

The Haijiu may well have been at least part of your initial problem, Dexter, but I'm pretty sure that Mikey's question was to determine if you had charged the NEW Motobatt battery before installing it - cos if you didn't, it's also quite likely that the supplier/retailer didn't, and that could be why you've still got a problem!!

Even brand new batteries need to be properly charged before installation, but if they're lucky, most will only ever get a quick 'that'll do' type cursory cover charge by the supplier/retailer before they sell the new battery to you/install it for you, cos they'd need to have it on charge for at least about 8 hours before selling it to you, and you want it now! Doing that 'quick charge' thingy might be sorta OK for an old school car with a carby that doesn't need too much in the way of electrical power to get things going and keep it all running, cos with that sort of low level power demand, the alternator stands some small chance of giving your new battery a reasonable charge if you take it for a good long drive after installing it, but even if it does, it's still not great cos it won't ever fully charge the battery, which at best, will shorten your new battery's potential life! However, for our power hungry Spyders (& many other modern heavily computer dependent vehicles) it's rarely good enough to start & run the engine and all the computers/added electrical load, so many new batteries often just don't have enough of a charge to do all that, all for the lack of the 'proper charge' they are meant to get BEFORE installation!!

So, the important question here is, did YOU properly charge your new Motobatt battery before installing it?? If you didn't, that might be why you still have this problem - a problem that may possibly be resolved by putting your new Motobatt battery on a proper charger for at least 8 hours before taking your Spyder out for a ride again. And once you've given it that proper charge, even if the same Codes &/or Limp Mode come up again upon starting, try carefully taking it for a bit of a ride locally - it often takes riding for a mile or three to let the computers realise that everything is good now that you've got a properly charged battery that's capable of carrying the electrical load.

Just Sayin'

Gotcha that could've easily went over my head lol but yes I waited until my noco smart charger came in to put a full charge on the new battery before installing it

 

[Peteoz]

Dexter, C0031 is a “Left Front wheel speed sensor failure.” error.
Damaged circuit wires or damaged wheel speed sensor or damaged VCM pins.
Damaged toothed wheel or air gap too big.
Check for damage wheel speed sensor.
Check for damage tooth wheel.
Disconnect VCM & VSS-1.
Measure resistance between harness connector VCM-21 & VCM-22
(expected value > open).
Measure resistance from connector: VCM-22 to VSS1-1
(expected value: < 2 Ω).

Is it possible you have damaged some wiring during the light install?

Pete

 

[Mikey]

The wheel sensors will collect crap on them, it's a good thing to clean them from time to time! Make sure you don't lose any spacers when you remove them! Good catch Pete

 

[Dexterjada]

Dexter, C0031 is a “Left Front wheel speed sensor failure.” error.
Damaged circuit wires or damaged wheel speed sensor or damaged VCM pins.
Damaged toothed wheel or air gap too big.
Check for damage wheel speed sensor.
Check for damage tooth wheel.
Disconnect VCM & VSS-1.
Measure resistance between harness connector VCM-21 & VCM-22
(expected value > open).
Measure resistance from connector: VCM-22 to VSS1-1
(expected value: < 2 Ω).

Is it possible you have damaged some wiring during the light install?

Pete

As I am not sure at all where the VCM & VSS-1 are located, as I am new to owning a Spyder, so instead, I've located where and what the left speed sensor looks to be. I will trace the wire to its plug-in location and see if maybe I can disconnect and reconnect that to see if that works. I didn't touch or damage anything while installing the headlights. The bike rode fine upon my test ride afterwards, so I'll comb back through the fog lights to see if anything is out of place, but it was just pretty much just 6 screws & plug & play.

 

[Peteoz]

As I am not sure at all where the VCM & VSS-1 are located, as I am new to owning a Spyder, so instead, I've located where and what the left speed sensor looks to be. I will trace the wire to its plug-in location and see if maybe I can disconnect and reconnect that to see if that works. I didn't touch or damage anything while installing the headlights. The bike rode fine upon my test ride afterwards, so I'll comb back through the fog lights to see if anything is out of place, but it was just pretty much just 6 screws & plug & play.

Yes, it could well be a “furphy”, Dexter, but at least it is something to check, just in case.

Pete

 

[Dexterjada]

Yes, it could well be a “furphy”, Dexter, but at least it is something to check, just in case.

Pete

Ok so I've checked the sensor and connectors both seem to have no damage, dirt or moisture. Could the fact that my tires were low on air have tripped the sensor since possibly the wheel may have not been rotating properly while onto the way to get air?

 

[Mikey]

Did the code go away when you aired up?

 

[Dexterjada]

Did the code go away when you aired up?

Unfortunately no. I tested the other side and the codes came up immediately soon as I disconnected it, so I have no choice but to take it in cause I couldn't find anything out of place or damaged