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Is it necessary to disconnect/purge the auto levelling system when fitting an a/mkt shock?

troop

Well-known member
Hey all.
I just ordered a Wilbers shock for my 2022 RT S2S, and plan on installing it when it arrives. I'll R&R it by removing all the panels on both sides and using lifts/jacks to get it off the ground. Would it be necessary to disconnect/purge the leveling system to remove the shock? I just plan on replacing the shock via upper/lower mounting bolts. Thx for any info..
 
Release the air pressure, but don't disconnect anything. Just remove the inner valve guts from the Schrader valve under the seat. And, don't forget to disconnect the linkage for the ride height sensor - remove the upper bolt - on the left side.
 
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Release the air pressure, but don't disconnect anything. Just remove the inner valve guts from the Schrader valve under the seat. And, don't forget to disconnect the linkage for the ride height sensor - remove the upper bolt - on the left side.
Thank you. Easy enough. I thought I also read somewhere to manually add approx. 30psi to the system before starting anything up. Sound familiar?
 
Thank you. Easy enough. I thought I also read somewhere to manually add approx. 30psi to the system before starting anything up. Sound familiar?
Yeah. Once you're done, you can do that. Seems to wake up the ACS logic sometimes - although why I don't know - and it takes over after that.
 
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Hey all.
I just ordered a Wilbers shock for my 2022 RT S2S, and plan on installing it when it arrives. I'll R&R it by removing all the panels on both sides and using lifts/jacks to get it off the ground. Would it be necessary to disconnect/purge the leveling system to remove the shock? I just plan on replacing the shock via upper/lower mounting bolts. Thx for any info..
No.

When I installed mine I left all as is. I have the compression dampening control on mine too.

The self levelling works just fine, the only issue is when I want to raise the rear while mobile and via the controls, it goes into fault mode because the air bag compressor is working against the dampening in the shock. I had always set the ride height and allowed the system to set level before I take off anyway so it was only when I was tinkering that I came across this issue. With the air bag unable to set ride height and levelling, handling suffered.
 
No.

When I installed mine I left all as is. I have the compression dampening control on mine too.

The self levelling works just fine, the only issue is when I want to raise the rear while mobile and via the controls, it goes into fault mode because the air bag compressor is working against the dampening in the shock. I had always set the ride height and allowed the system to set level before I take off anyway so it was only when I was tinkering that I came across this issue. With the air bag unable to set ride height and levelling, handling suffered.

If there's not enough air in the bag, and you try to adjust the bag using the controls (if you're on an RT that's got controls! ;)) you'll often get an error message. IIRC, it's usually something along the lines of an orange 'Manual' that shows up where the High/Low or Soft/Hard indicator would be, and it can also light up if your compressor has given up the ghost or the height control unit has failed. :cautious:

Still, if you're getting a warning/error message while trying to use the controls to adjust ride height on the go, it's generally a sign that your Spyder's self levelling ACS ISN'T working just fine, or you wouldn't get that failure indicator/warning! However, it often helps if you simply make sure that there's about 15-30'ish psi minimum in the bag before you start riding. The bad news is that if by doing that, whatever pressure you've set has increased the ride height to something that's above the computer's pre-set ride height, then just as soon as you start riding, the computer will direct the ACS to drop the air pressure in the bag to reduce your ride height to its pre-programmed level, and all your 'pre-ride height/pressure setting' air will be dumped out of the air bag before you truly get to enjoy or maybe even realise it! 😖

So be careful how much air pressure you add, and remember that it's because of this 'revert to the pre-set level' thing (which pretty much means that the manual 'height adjust' or 'Hard/soft' adjust controls are basically useless, cos regardless of what you adjust them to, it won't be long before the system will automatically revert to the computer stored pre-set pretty anyway - seconds of riding, usually! :rolleyes: ) that many simply do away with the 'auto' part of the ACS, by-passing the problematic ride height sensor & compressor and instead, running an air line direct from the Schraeder valve under the seat into the air bag so that they can add air as & when they desire thru the valve themselves, setting the pressure/ride height they want and then ride on, knowing that the 'auto' system won't over-ride their chosen settings within the first few hundred metres of riding as it does if it's left to its own devices! 🤬

Or they fit an after market shock & coil combination that is actually able to carry the load of a rider &/or pillion & any gear without requiring the assistance of the air bag to work as a functioning shock/coil even at the most basic level completely without any assistance from the air bag to set ride height. ;)

Like so many other things on our Spyders, the ACS as she is delivered from BRP is a great concept, but yet another example of p*** poor execution! :mad:
 
I replaced my stock rear shock with an Elka. You will want to let the air out of the airbag, but it's not necessary to remove the shrader valve; just depress the valve to let the air out. If you don't, the air pressure will keep the shock absorber bolts loaded and very hard to remove. You will want to remove the lower bolt first, and put it back in last.
 
If you are putting a aftermarket shock on that is set up for your weight and ride style your air bag does not need to be in the system anymore unless you want it as a overload for extra weight like hauling a trailer and you have a little too much sag in the bikes rear. Basically, you could take and unhook your dump valve and unhook the dog bone on the swing arm, and put 5-10 lbs. in the bag, and forget it unless you need a little more load leveling for extra weight on the rear! If you leave the system on auto, it will fight with the shock and mess with the ride quality of the shock! Don't over think this set up! The auto ride set up was made to work together with the crappy shock they put on our bikes, when one of the things blow up, like the compressor or shock your bike rides like crap!!!! An aftermarket shock is made to take the place of all of that crap! Years ago, my dad had a slide in camper for the truck, he put a set of air bags on the truck to take up the load when it was in there, when the camper was out of the truck he would take the air out of the bags! That's what you should be doing with your set up!!
 
The shock and any other suspension on my 2020RT has nothing to do with my trailer hitch when pulling a trailer.
The air in my rear tire is the only suspension related to the hitch or the trailer being pulled,
as I believe most all Spyders are the same set-up.

MHO, Bill
 
The shock and any other suspension on my 2020RT has nothing to do with my trailer hitch when pulling a trailer.
The air in my rear tire is the only suspension related to the hitch or the trailer being pulled,
as I believe most all Spyders are the same set-up.

MHO, Bill
Only if they're using an OEM hitch. And certainly here in Oz, that's not always the case. ;)
 
The shock and any other suspension on my 2020RT has nothing to do with my trailer hitch when pulling a trailer.
The air in my rear tire is the only suspension related to the hitch or the trailer being pulled,
as I believe most all Spyders are the same set-up.

MHO
I stand corrected on that point a small bit - when you go to take off, even if your hitch is attached to the swing arm you will put a small amount of pressure on the suspension, there's going to be some torque there with the weight of the bike trying to engage the load of the trailer working through the swing arm! As minimal as it seems, you do understand what I am saying about not needing the bag at all if you are putting an aftermarket shock in the system?
 
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