I just ordered BUDS w/ Megatech license.

[Cobranut]

Wanting to adjust my alignment, and seeing that the steering angle and torque sensors should be re-calibrated afterward.
I do all my own maintenance and performance mods, many of which will require BUDS, so I went ahead and bit the bullet.
Hopefully it will be here in a couple weeks.
I'll also be glad to help out any other owners in the area who may need something checked or reset.

I'll post here when I get it, and share my opinion of it's ease of use and capabilities.

 

[BamaJohn]

That's a nice offer!

 

[safecracker]

Wish I lived closer.

 

[soloflyr]

Out of curiosity what is required to get the BUDS software for one license? Is there an annual maintenance fee? Also, I have a 2008 GS 5 speed manual that currently goes into limp mode after I change the brakes and front discs - what do I need to do to clear the limp mode?

 

[Peter Aawen]

Out of curiosity what is required to get the BUDS software for one license? Is there an annual maintenance fee? Also, I have a 2008 GS 5 speed manual that currently goes into limp mode after I change the brakes and front discs - what do I need to do to clear the limp mode?

Others may chime in with the BUDS detail, but if your Spyder is like most others that show Limp Mode after working on the brakes, the solution is usually simply to (carefully) ride it for a couple of hundred metres or so!! And if it's not that, then rather than just "clearing the limp mode" by using BUDS, you really need to identify and fix whatever problem it is - you might use BUDS as a tool to do that, but you shouldn't treat BUDS as a 'code/error clearing device - it's a 'Diagnostic Tool' to help you identify any problems you need to fix. :thumbup: nojoke

Your Spyder going into Limp Mode &/or showing any other VSS warnings after working on the brakes is most likely because you either didn't re-seat the new pads on the discs BEFORE turning the ignition on &/or running it for long enough with one wheel in the air, so that the Nanny thought one wheel was doing a significantly different speed to the other two - something that's not really possible in 'normal safe riding'!! So make sure to leave the ignition off the whole time you're working on the brakes, until AFTER you've pressed the pedal a few times to get the pads re-seated on the discs; and if you still get the Limp Mode, try riding it for a little bit. hyea:

If you've still got a Brake Warning light or Limp Mode after that, it's a more serious problem - I'd suggest starting by making sure the rear brake light isn't staying on due to it needing a brake pedal pressure re-set or a sticky micro-switch somewhere in the system! You should probably Search on that for the pressure reset process & other discussion, since we've already probably hijacked this thread away from BUDS Megatech acquisition for long enough.

 

[Cobranut]

Is it OK to post a link to the vendor I bought from?

I am having a bit of trouble connecting to my Spyder.
The software runs fine, the green USB light is on, and it connects to the MPI-3 interface, but the CAN connection to my Spyder will not connect.
I get the No module recognized error, and the CAN light only flashes red when trying to connect.

I've been in contact with the vendor, and the next step is to try it on another vehicle.
Is there anyone in the Roanoke, Bedford, or Lynchburg, VA area that would let me try it on their roadster? Any model year up to 2016 should work with my version of BUDS 1.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Is it OK to post a link to the vendor I bought from?
.....

One link, yes; and a recommendation or review of the business/product. See post #17 in this thread:

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...nger-any-Sponsors-Advertising-on-SpyderLovers!

 

[DickB]

I am having a bit of trouble connecting to my Spyder.

I have to ask - do you have the key on but not running?

 

[Cobranut]

I received a new MPI from the vendor today.
It finally connects to my bike.

I saved the original configuration, and played around with some of the diagnostic features.

I took a shot at calibrating my optimistic speedometer, and I also calibrated the steering angle and torque sensors, since I had made a slight toe and steering centering adjustment a couple weeks ago.
Waiting on a warmer day to see if it steers any differently.

It looks like it's never been re-flashed, as the S/W edition date is 28/08/14.
There's lots of cal and config data that can be changed, but I'll be saving the files for every change, so I can easily go back if something doesn't work right. LOL

I do see a couple settings I'm curious about.
One is "Roller Bench Mode" which I suspect disables the stability and traction control so it can be run on a dyno.
There's also "HBB activation" which I couldn't find in the shop manual. Does anyone know what that may be? It's currently enabled.

Looking at the Vehicle Configuration screen, there's an interesting option I plan to try. Bit 3: TCS off mode. Hopefully that gives me the ability to disable traction control with the Mode switch. :2thumbs:

Hopefully there are some others on here as curious as I am, and I haven't bored everyone to sleep. LOL

 

[flea]

I received a new MPI from the vendor today.
It finally connects to my bike.

I saved the original configuration, and played around with some of the diagnostic features.

I took a shot at calibrating my optimistic speedometer, and I also calibrated the steering angle and torque sensors, since I had made a slight toe and steering centering adjustment a couple weeks ago.
Waiting on a warmer day to see if it steers any differently.

It looks like it's never been re-flashed, as the S/W edition date is 28/08/14.
There's lots of cal and config data that can be changed, but I'll be saving the files for every change, so I can easily go back if something doesn't work right. LOL

I do see a couple settings I'm curious about.
One is "Roller Bench Mode" which I suspect disables the stability and traction control so it can be run on a dyno.
There's also "HBB activation" which I couldn't find in the shop manual. Does anyone know what that may be? It's currently enabled.

Looking at the Vehicle Configuration screen, there's an interesting option I plan to try. Bit 3: TCS off mode. Hopefully that gives me the ability to disable traction control with the Mode switch. :2thumbs:

Hopefully there are some others on here as curious as I am, and I haven't bored everyone to sleep. LOL

That's interesting what you were saying about turning off the stability and traction control. A few months back, I bought an 08 GS off a mate for spare parts; somehow, he turned almost everything off, so with the key turned on the dash lit up like a xmas tree; BUT the amount of power he unleashed was amazing! He could do burn outs, donuts, etc. etc. plus a lot, lot more acceleration! It drank that much fuel he put another fuel tank in the boot... It looks like the computer robs a lot of performance, and that you can turn a lot off without compromising the bike.

 

[Cobranut]

That's interesting what you were saying about turning off the stability and traction control. A few months back, I bought an 08 GS off a mate for spare parts; somehow, he turned almost everything off, so with the key turned on the dash lit up like a xmas tree; BUT the amount of power he unleashed was amazing! He could do burn outs, donuts, etc. etc. plus a lot, lot more acceleration! It drank that much fuel he put another fuel tank in the boot... It looks like the computer robs a lot of performance, and that you can turn a lot off without compromising the bike.

I doubt he did all that with BUDS.
Sounds like he had a custom tune on it, and not a very good one if it was showing warnings on the dash.

I have a DynoJet PV4 tuner on order from Fuel Moto. I plan to start with one of their canned tunes, log some data and tweak things from there.

 

[flea]

I doubt he did all that with BUDS.
Sounds like he had a custom tune on it, and not a very good one if it was showing warnings on the dash.

I have a DynoJet PV4 tuner on order from Fuel Moto. I plan to start with one of their canned tunes, log some data and tweak things from there.

I don't know how he did it, and knowing him, he wouldn't have cared about warning lights or just turning everything off the cheapest way possible. The same bloke came to our local 1/8 mile dirt drags with it; he made up a set of metal paddles to go on the rear wheel and they lasted 1 run, bending right over. It's what you do when you inherit a bike that you didn't really want (Harley rider). He did come to appreciate it though... but I found it interesting how much more power it developed. A local mechanic has BUDS and we are going to try and turn a few things back on out of interest, but he said it all depends on what system he had/used to turn things off... In Qld, you only have to do a roadworthy cert if you're selling a car/bike with rego. If the rego is current, you just keep paying the rego fee without it being inspected, so the warning lights would not have mattered.

 

[Cobranut]

Went for a ride today. My speedo adjustment made a difference, it's now off 1-2mph from 2-3mph before.
I went from 1868 to 1000. Next I'll try 0 and see where that gets me.

The TCS off mode made no difference. I tried several button sequences trying to activate it, but no luck yet.

I did get my spare key cut. I plan to program it tomorrow.

My DynoJet PV4 is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. Hopefully the rain and cold will hold off long enough to get in a few test runs.

 

[Cobranut]

I got to try out the PV4 yesterday.
I did have a misunderstanding that Autotune was available, but after a conversation with the vendor, it turns out that only Harley ECU's can run the Autotune feature. I'm a bit disappointed in this, but buying from Fuel Moto includes their tuning support now and for any changes I make in the future.

I was able to flash a DynoJet canned tune, and I took it out and collected several datalogs, which I sent to Fuel Moto for them to provide a custom tune.

The DynoJet tune makes a noticeable difference in acceleration. I picked up .3 to .4 seconds in 30-70mph third gear pulls. The redline is also extended by 300rpm, as well as vehicle speed limit being raised as well. Hoping to see some more gains with the FM tune, as well as enabling more serious performance mods in the future.

I received my first custom tune from Fuel Moto this afternoon.
Too cold to ride today, but I'm looking forward to seeing how it does now.

 

[Cobranut]

Does anyone have experience with connecting BUDS to a tuned ECU?

Is it necessary to flash the ECU back to stock before connecting BUDS, or would BUDS simply modify the tuned profile and reflash it to the ECU?

 

[EdMat]

BUDS has no problem connecting to a Spyder with a tuned ECU. The functions that youa re normally going to read or write will not affect the tune.

 

[Cobranut]

BUDS has no problem connecting to a Spyder with a tuned ECU. The functions that youa re normally going to read or write will not affect the tune.

Thanks Ed.

 

[Mikemac]

I doubt he did all that with BUDS.
Sounds like he had a custom tune on it, and not a very good one if it was showing warnings on the dash.

I have a DynoJet PV4 tuner on order from Fuel Moto. I plan to start with one of their canned tunes, log some data and tweak things from there.

How is the dynojet working out?

 

[Cobranut]

How is the dynojet working out?

I love it. The custom tune really woke up the motor, and I'm sure added several hp.
I also modified the pedal vs. throttle opening map to increase responsiveness in the throttle ranges above 40%, and reduce how far I need to twist my wrist to get to full throttle. It helps a lot with my hand issues.

Also, Fuel Moto has awesome support, and offers lifetime tune updates as you add mods.