Oil Leaks-anyone else/

[Recluze]

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I have attached two photos.

The first showing where the oil is puddling on the forward side of the rear cylinder. Seems like a valve cover gasket would be the likely cause but it has been replaced twice.

The other is my catch can after a 70 mile ride on a cold damp day. The engine was at 2-3 bars. The oil level is a the bottom of the dipstick-checked when cold. Seems like a lot. Seems like a mixture of water-hopefully condensation.

I disconnected the battery. I hooked it back up and let the engine idle for at least 15 minutes. I took it for a ride around the block and the surging seems less or gone. But the engine was at 4 bars plus after letting it idle so long. I will give it more of a test today.

Thanks for all of the help. Bottomline is I enjoy this thing every day it is not in the shop. I don't like it being so dirty from oil blowing all over it but that too shall pass.

 

[Recluze]

was about 1 teaspoon in 200 miles. I have since removed all three catch cans and now use a crank case filter tube to air box that has 200 mesh fuel screen and open cell filter foam. This modification lets the case breath normally but virtually eliminates the oil from migrating to the air box.

When you are getting that much oil in the can... which in my opinion is a considerable amount for 70 miles... I'd be talking to the dealer. Now this is just my opinion... there are members on this forum that are far more qualified to address what could be causing that much oil in the can.

The reason I asked about the glass or plastic catch can is... my past experience with tractor fuel bowls the glass bowls always seem to get more condensation than the plastic ones. /Ken

Can you explain the filter material and the screen mesh installation a little better. Where do you put these items? What kind of filter material do you use? Can I just get some Lawn mower filter material and put it in the air cleaner where the vent hose comes in? Any help would be great. I am not happy with the catch can thing but I must say that it is giving me indications that may be important with the amount of milky oil I am seeing.

 

[boborgera]

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The other is my catch can after a 70 mile ride on a cold damp day. The engine was at 2-3 bars. The oil level is a the bottom of the dipstick-checked when cold. Seems like a lot. Seems like a mixture of water-hopefully condensation.


Like i said before check your coolant level that's too much water for condensation.:yikes: HEAD GASKET??

 

[krb1945]

Pull a sample from...

your tank using a clear syringe. You can get one of the walmart 2 cycle oil measuring units for about 2 bucks. It is reusable. It appears from the picture of the bowl you are getting a lot of water in your oil. The milk in the bowl appears to be more than condensation. The oil milk you see is from the crank case. If the sample from the tank is the same as the catch can sorry to say your machine needs to head to the shop.

There are several threads and post on the filter vent tubes. I'll get you a link shortly. /Ken

 

[Recluze]

I am going to do the syringe thing.

It sometimes takes someone else to point out the obvious. But you are right in that is one heck of a lot of water in the oil.

I will search for the links on the filter mod. I have more pressing issues at the moment.

 

[krb1945]

Recluse... here are some links...

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=171521#post171521

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16013&highlight=catch

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=171522#post171522


hope this helps you... also here is the part number for the filter fuel screen 0237055 Screen and gasket kit for shallow bowl Allis Chalmbers tractors. This can be obtained from any Tractor Supply Company or on line at tractorsupplycompany.com.

If you can't find it in your area pm me. /Ken

 

[krb1945]

Recluse....did you...

find out any more information about the water in your catch can? Ken

 

[Recluze]

I talked to Carlo at BRP about the entire thing and he advised taking it back to the dealer. I did.

They performed the ECU mod which is adding a piece of hose to the Evaporative canister and doing a software upgrade. This was to address the surging issue. They also suggested a better grade of gas.

I have given up on the leak issue. It is noticeably less since the last valve cover gasket replacement. I may have been freaking out about some residual oil left from previous leaks. We shall see. I just park over a piece of cardboard which I find sad.

The oil pressure low light continues to be a problem. The dealer seemed at a loss as to what to do about this. I will pursue that futher today.

I checked my radiator and I am not losing noticeable amounts of water. I checked the oil reservoir and I have no discernible water in it.

I put some fresh gas in it and gave a good run over my favorite 120 mile 610 turn run. The surging seemed to have either lessened or disappeared. The oil light is on whenever I am at idle once warm. The catch can is 1/4 full of the same milky liquid.

I would say things are getting better. The oil light still needs to be fixed. The milky stuff will have to be monitored. I need to spend more time on the road and less in the shop.

 

[groundeffect]

By the sounds of things they are looking a little better for you, which is good, but they have a little ways to go yet before you're 100%, like the oil light and the milky oil.

I'm sorry - perhaps I missed it, but did you do an oil change, would that help? Also, perhaps changing oil type??? (sorry newbie here).

I have given up on the leak issue. It is noticeably less since the last valve cover gasket replacement. I may have been freaking out about some residual oil left from previous leaks. We shall see. I just park over a piece of cardboard which I find sad.

You could hose it down to get all of that left over oil out of there, that may help you when troubleshooting - at least get 'previous oil leak' off your mind.


You're getting there. Thank you for sharing your updates.

 

[NancysToy]

I talked to Carlo at BRP about the entire thing and he advised taking it back to the dealer. I did.

They performed the ECU mod which is adding a piece of hose to the Evaporative canister and doing a software upgrade. This was to address the surging issue. They also suggested a better grade of gas.

I have given up on the leak issue. It is noticeably less since the last valve cover gasket replacement. I may have been freaking out about some residual oil left from previous leaks. We shall see. I just park over a piece of cardboard which I find sad.

The oil pressure low light continues to be a problem. The dealer seemed at a loss as to what to do about this. I will pursue that futher today.

I checked my radiator and I am not losing noticeable amounts of water. I checked the oil reservoir and I have no discernible water in it.

I put some fresh gas in it and gave a good run over my favorite 120 mile 610 turn run. The surging seemed to have either lessened or disappeared. The oil light is on whenever I am at idle once warm. The catch can is 1/4 full of the same milky liquid.

I would say things are getting better. The oil light still needs to be fixed. The milky stuff will have to be monitored. I need to spend more time on the road and less in the shop.

I don't think you are out of the woods. If the engine and chassis was thoroughly cleaned after the last gasket replacement, it should not be dripping oil. I'm not sure I buy into the "residual" theory. That alone would not make me freak out, but it would p*** me off. Modern engines should not do that.

As to the oil pressure, you probably have far more serious problems than the light. They have replaced the sending unit and the problem remains. Did they check the actual pressure with a gauge, as specified in the service manual? If not, you need a new mechanic! If so, was it in spec? I would doubt it. Dltang's case was scored at the oil pump rotor. I suspect you may have the same problem. It is time to demand a new engine. Do not settle for a teardown. Your mechanics have already proven that they are not capable of that. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but low oil pressure is fatal, eventually.

 

[krb1945]

I am concerned ...

Like Scotty, I am concerned about the oil pressure light coming on at idle. These engines idle high enough that light should never come on if the pump, sending unit and oil are working properly. If I had no milk in the tank I would consider changing the oil and filter(s) anyway. I would use the best oil I could get my hands on and go from there. I would also clean the catch can and tubing on both sides. You can clean it with a little kerosene or hot soapy water and dry thoroughly before re-installing. Be careful if you use the Kerosene... make sure you don't ignite it or get any in the crankcase.

Not seeing this engine... I am suspicious about two components... a leaking head gasket, not the valve cover gasket, and a oil pump that is not working correctly.

Scotty said it correctly... if the oil pump is not working right your engine will only go down hill. I would think the dealer should check the oil pressure and if low with good oil in the engine I suspect BRP would replace your engine if you ask. They have a good product and do not want their reputation soiled. No matter how hard manufacturers try there are some assemblies that fail. .Ken

 

[boborgera]

I don't think you are out of the woods. If the engine and chassis was thoroughly cleaned after the last gasket replacement, it should not be dripping oil. I'm not sure I buy into the "residual" theory. That alone would not make me freak out, but it would p*** me off. Modern engines should not do that.

As to the oil pressure, you probably have far more serious problems than the light. are not capable of that. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but low oil pressure is fatal, eventually.

:agree: Also there should be NO WATER IN YOUR OIL. :shocked:

 

[sabunim5]

"I put some fresh gas in it and gave a good run over my favorite 120 mile 610 turn run."

That is just bragging pure and simple. Kind of like us folks in Florida writing about rides on 70+ degree days when there is three feet of snow from Chicago to New York. Congratulations to you nojoke on having those kind of roads to ride. We have the opposite in FL, maybe 120 turns in 610 miles, if we are lucky, usually less turns than that. No problem hyea: Just one more reason to travel more. Can't wait for retirement. :yes:

 

[Recluze]

I did another shake down run yesterday and the surging is back. It has moved up in the RPM range to 5-5500 rpm. It feels like the motor wants to quit when held in this rpm range. Maddening.

The leaks seem to be all gone. Great.

Did not look at the catch can.


Back to the dealer. I am glad i have a trailer and a nearby dealer.

 

[groundeffect]

Back to the dealer. I am glad i have a trailer and a nearby dealer.

Agreed.

Hope they sort out the issues once and for all.

Cheers and good luck, Recluze.

 

[krb1945]

Make sure all...

your relays are plugged in good. Mine was going into limp mode a few weeks back. I checked the relays one was lose so I added thicker piece of foam. Did a road test and no more limp or other weird stuff. /Ken

 

[the nicko]

krb1945 can take som nice picture of foam mod in relay box


opcorn:

 

[Recluze]

"That is just bragging pure and simple. Kind of like us folks in Florida writing about rides on 70+ degree days when there is three feet of snow from Chicago to New York. Congratulations to you nojoke on having those kind of roads to ride. We have the opposite in FL, maybe 120 turns in 610 miles, if we are lucky, usually less turns than that. No problem hyea: Just one more reason to travel more. Can't wait for retirement." :yes:

Well you have to wonder how boring my life is that I have time to count the curves in a road.

You other guys are more to the point at hand. The low oil light is a real issue with me. The milky residue is a very troubling issue. The oil was changed 700 miles ago by the dealer. The surging thing is making me crazy because I do not trust that this engine will be running long.

On Tuesday it goes back and Carlo has asked that they call him. My planned trip to Mexico at the end of the month is looking pretty dim right now.

But I appreciate everyone's suggestions and concerns. This do will pass.

 

[Recluze]

"can take some nice picture of foam mod in relay box"

I will check this. My Spyder had foam installed from the factory and I have never had a relay problem. That does not mean it is not a problem now. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[krb1945]

Recluze... are you...

here in Florida or are you in California? If your are in Florida let me know where.

On the foam in the lid of the fuse box... in mine it was too thin. so I added a piece of real soft foam about 3/4 inch wide and the length of the lid. That is all I did and my relays stay tight now. I pull the lid about once a month just to check.

/Ken