Cannot get the rear pulley to seat properly - any ideas?

[mgardiner2673]

I have my new tire on, brake disk, and reluctor ring installed, but now I can't get the rear pulley to seat properly.
I have a new O-ring oiled, and ready to install the pulley. Pulley will not seat completely. I've even greased the cush rubbers slightly to better slide the pulley onto the wheel. Pulley will not seat past the O-ring. Any ideas why? Help will be greatly appreciated!

 

[BajaRon]

Did you lube the O-Ring and mating surface on the hub?

You have to get the rubber cushions back exactly as they came out. We recommend marking them with chalk before removing them. Otherwise, it can be like solving a Rubik's Cube! If you didn't do that. I'd start there.

 

[Ex-Rocket]

Thats what it sounds like to me also that you didn't mark the rubber cushions and one or more may not be in the right place. Good luck.

 

[Bfromla]

Did you lube the O-Ring and mating surface on the hub?

You have to get the rubber cushions back exactly as they came out. We recommend marking them with chalk before removing them. Otherwise, it can be like solving a Rubik's Cube! If you didn't do that. I'd start there.

:thumbup::agree: also O rings can simply twist & not fit as smooth. Sorry unaware if there is proper indexing on hub & pulley .

 

[mgardiner2673]

I appreciate all the replies to my question. Yes, I did lube the O-ring and the mating surfaces. I finally got it to mate after doing what I read somewhere about rocking the pulley back and forth as you apply pressure. Finally got the wheel back on the bike. Torquing that rear axle nut to 177lb-ft is a difficult task to say the least.

One thing I must comment on are the responses about the rubber dampers in the rear wheel. There are 5 dampers, and as far as I can tell, they are all exactly alike. If you look at the Can Am Parts-finder, they only show 1 part number for all of the dampers, so they must be the same.
They do have to be put in correctly, round side out, but putting them in different positions within the hub should not make any difference. Please explain if otherwise?

 

[djh3]

Not experienced with the dampeners on these yet. But I did have a Yamaha Venture that had a similar type cushion drive. What can happen with these is after they are in position for say 10k they get a "wear pattern". They may or may not go back into "any" slot, as they just fit where they have been.

 

[Woodaddict]

It has been said on here before about marking them and installing them in same place. If that needed to be done, then they would have different part #'s. One of these just might have a different amount of compression or non- compression that might make it harder to get started pushing the sprocket back on. They looked similar, so I just put them in, and my 2 tire changes have been OK. Between the O ring and cushions, it is just a little finicky to push together. But it needs that close fit as much torque is applied by belt.

 

[happyspyder2039]

a torque of 177 foot pound seems a lot according to Lamonster garage see attachment below

 

[Woodaddict]

unless they changed rear axle torque for newer models, as stated above its 166 ft lbs. Not a game changer to add another 11 lbs, but 166 is enough!!

 

[Yabbadabbadoo]

First time I changed the tire on my F3S I had the same problem. Spraying the dampeners with silicone spray made the difference. Got it all back together, adjusted belt, and then found that I didn't properly index the pulley and it blocked access to the tire valve. Doh!!! Had to start all over again. Also the o-ring needed to be replaced so now I make sure I have one available before starting the job. Helped a friend with his bike a few weeks ago and his needed replacement too.

 

[Peteoz]

unless they changed rear axle torque for newer models, as stated above its 166 ft lbs. Not a game changer to add another 11 lbs, but 166 is enough!!

Even further, I believe it is 166 plus or minus 11, Woodaddict. Mind you, 155 is still a pretty tight pull

Pete

 

[mgardiner2673]

Per my 2018 service manual the expected torque is 177 lb ft, with no plus or minus listed. I still don't think I'm going that far.

 

[safecracker]

Glad you got it. Great job.

 

[AeroPilot]

After wiping out the dirty grease, and lightly greasing the O-ring, I've found that liberally spraying the cush pucks with Armor All, and then seating the rear sprocket by pushing it down works for me. And like Yabbbadabba, I have forgotten to check that the tire valve is open... AAHHHHH!!!

 

[pegasus1300]

I have removed my rear wheel a couple of times for a rear tire change and ended up taking the rubber cush drive out to take the wheel to a tire place to mount my rear tire. I never thought about getting them back the same, and they went in just fine. I did find that a liberal application of Windex did help the sprocket to seat better. Oh and I too forgot to index the sprocket properly the 1st time.:gaah:pps::cus:

 

[TheMariner]

Also the o-ring needed to be replaced so now I make sure I have one available before starting the job.

I don't suppose you kept the old one & can measure it ? I'd like to get a couple in advance to have on hand.

 

[PW2013STL]

I have done more than 10 rear tire changes over the years, and I have always just tossed the rubber dampeners into a bucket. When reassembling, I would clean them and inspect them for wear. I would lubricate them and place the drive sprocket in place, making sure the wheel spokes align with the sprocket spokes, then apply pressure to fully seat the sprocket (sometimes a rubber mallet helps).
Yes, like others the first time I did it, they were not, but it only takes one time to learn not to do that again.
I also tourqe the wheel to 160#, and I never had a wheel come loose, or have a belt go out of alignment.

 

[Peteoz]

Per my 2018 service manual the expected torque is 177 lb ft, with no plus or minus listed. I still don't think I'm going that far.

How odd, mgardiner... Both my 2016 F3-L and '20+ RT service manuals show 166, +/- 11. I wonder why the change for the '18 (and perhaps other years?) models to 177? :dontknow: Just out of interest, unless I have missed it (quite possible. ) what model are you riding?

Pete

 

[mgardiner2673]

Thanks for the heads up on on your torque specs. I'm riding a 2018 Spyder F3-S. Not sure why that would make any difference but with what I've seen from Can Am I'm not surprised.