• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

My solution to the Bajaron Ultra sway-bar 'clunk'!

Very interesting thread. Our Spyder would probably benefit from some modifications. It’s a '23 that’s bone stock and works fine. It’s almost always ridden 2 up and even though it’s my third Spyder, I’ve never encountered the nanny. My girlfriend on the back voices concern if I get too frisky, so no BRP intervention has ever occurred.
Anyway, I have a KTM SuperDuke to satisfy my needs for cornering and acceleration thrills.
Appreciate all the useful information on here!
 
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You are in a tricky area. Rule of thumb would be that if you feel the Original Bar is giving you all the control you need. Then you may want to stick with it. On the other hand, I know you're wondering if you're missing out on better handling. I wish I could give you a definite up or down answer.

It's easy to advise light or heavy riders. There are many factors which come into play within this middle ground you are in. You have side bags, and, more importantly, a top bag. While not typically as important as a passenger, these storage areas can contribute a fair amount to centrifugal force, depending on how they are loaded (weight wise). For best handling, you want to put heavier items in the front trunk. Lighter items in the side bags, and the lightest items in the top bag. You want the weight low and forward. But this is not always possible or practical.

Not sure which figure you gave. But if you weigh 215 on the scale. You could easily weigh 225 with all your gear on.

You mentioned a propensity for aggressive riding and that you enjoy twisties. Perception and expectation are additional subjective factors that come into play.

So, my definite conclusive answer in your case is... MAYBE! With a PROBABLY factor thrown in. Because I believe you will see some measure of improvement with your factors. Whether that improvement is enough to warrant the upgrade, that is a question that only you can answer.

Depending on how high your interest is. And whether you do your own install or not. I propose that I send you an Ultra-Bar kit. You give it a thorough workout and see if it is a worthwhile upgrade. If you like it, you purchase it. If not, send it back and we'll call it even. (I'll cover the return shipping)

I'm as interested as you are in how this would turn out. Just let me know if this sounds workable to you.

WOW, That's is a great offer Ron... I'll let you know what I decide. I'm riding up to new Hampshire to visit family on Wednesday.. After that I'll decide.. as far as me installing it, I can.. I didn't do the original one your shop did. I needed a good ride, so I just made an appointment at your shop. Daniel installed it for me and I was off to explore the area (read twisties)...

Again, Thank you Ron for the offer... I'll let you know!
 
You are in a tricky area. Rule of thumb would be that if you feel the Original Bar is giving you all the control you need. Then you may want to stick with it. On the other hand, I know you're wondering if you're missing out on better handling. I wish I could give you a definite up or down answer.

It's easy to advise light or heavy riders. There are many factors which come into play within this middle ground you are in. You have side bags, and, more importantly, a top bag. While not typically as important as a passenger, these storage areas can contribute a fair amount to centrifugal force, depending on how they are loaded (weight wise). For best handling, you want to put heavier items in the front trunk. Lighter items in the side bags, and the lightest items in the top bag. You want the weight low and forward. But this is not always possible or practical.

Not sure which figure you gave. But if you weigh 215 on the scale. You could easily weigh 225 with all your gear on.

You mentioned a propensity for aggressive riding and that you enjoy twisties. Perception and expectation are additional subjective factors that come into play.

So, my definite conclusive answer in your case is... MAYBE! With a PROBABLY factor thrown in. Because I believe you will see some measure of improvement with your factors. Whether that improvement is enough to warrant the upgrade, that is a question that only you can answer.

Depending on how high your interest is. And whether you do your own install or not. I propose that I send you an Ultra-Bar kit. You give it a thorough workout and see if it is a worthwhile upgrade. If you like it, you purchase it. If not, send it back and we'll call it even. (I'll cover the return shipping)

I'm as interested as you are in how this would turn out. Just let me know if this sounds workable to you.

Wow Ron, I think you opened up the flood gates! Good luck my friend.
 
I know it may sound contrived. But we are not here to sell stuff. We are here to help you enjoy your ride. Selling stuff is just a byproduct... At least, that's the way we see it.

(A message to everyone) If you ever get the chance, come see us at the shop. We'd love to meet you.
 
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WOW, That's is a great offer Ron... I'll let you know what I decide. I'm riding up to new Hampshire to visit family on Wednesday.. After that I'll decide.. as far as me installing it, I can.. I didn't do the original one your shop did. I needed a good ride, so I just made an appointment at your shop. Daniel installed it for me and I was off to explore the area (read twisties)...

Again, Thank you Ron for the offer... I'll let you know!

That's an even better idea! If you can come early enough. We can install it, you can ride it the same day. Not to rush, but if you can get enough miles on the new bar, (we've got a good number of twisty roads nearby) you can decide before you go home and we can put the Original Bar back on if you so choose the same day. I'll need to go riding with you, of course, to show you were the twisties are! A great excuse to get out of the office!

This plan just gets better and better! :yes:
 
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I can attest to the quality of work at their shop in Greeneville TN. I had the Ultra Sway Bar installed yesterday at their facility and they were First Class folks all the way around to deal with. I had several things installed; my appointment was at 9:30; and they had me rolling by 1:00 with the best labor rates I have ever seen in a repair shop.

This is not as much about the sway bar as it is about the quality of the people, and I'm 100% sure that if I have an issue, they will resolve it.
 
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Yes I know. I just meant I would check for the gap you spoke of. Since the original post I tightened the bolt more and clunk seems to be gone. Will keep checking it to make sure.
 
Yes I know. I just meant I would check for the gap you spoke of. Since the original post I tightened the bolt more and clunk seems to be gone. Will keep checking it to make sure.

That's great news! I'm sorry, I meant to get back to you about this after your last post (which I guess I misunderstood). It's been busy. Glad the 'Fix' worked. It has every time until this situation with the OP. We are working towards a solution.

The clunk is not a safety issue. The bar won't work quite as well being allowed to move. But it won't hurt anything. So it can be safely ridden until we get it fixed.
 
Hi everyone. I know there are already different posts on here about the Bajaron swaybars and the clunking they do.
I discovered the clunk posts after installing the ultra bar and having the clunk. I have to say I am surprised and dismayed it is occurring.
The supposed common remedy was to make sure the bushing bolts are tight. I had to stop tightening in fear of breaking them.
I did some inspecting with a light, of the bushing while it was installed. I immediately saw the gap at the top of the bushing above the bolt was not closed and was at least 1/16th of an inch wide. That didn't seem right at all when the bottom is compressed so hard that the seam bulges.
I could only determine the top of the bushing needs to be more closed and there is a design flaw in the bushing. I wedged a strip of 20-gauge metal wider than the bushing and just thick/wide enough to fit above the bolt without striking the top of the channel cross member, between the channel and the sway bar. I wanted to put one on each side of the block but could only do one. Then I re-tightened and put the Spyder (2021 Sea to Sky) back on the ground, and the bar is completely silent now. I can't say how long it will work properly, as it really isn't the proper solution.
It seems to me the bushing needs to be redesigned so it is wider at the top, so it closes down on the bar properly, or design and include a shim such as the one I made.
I wanted to bring this to people's attention so they have a solution in the event they are living with the clunk they couldn't make go away.
I will send this to Bajaron to get his spin on it as well.

Ride safe and enjoy!!

I want to send some replacement parts to correct your issue. I've emailed you asking for an address to ship to but you have not responded. Don't post your address here, but please contact me with this information so that we can move forward on your fix.
 
I'd like to add my two cents worth to this thread. First off, let me say that I am a huge fan of ALL of Ron's products and have them on my Spyder. I have installed numerous anti-sway bars; both the original, and the Ultra. In my travels, I have seen two of the Ultra equipped Spyders develop a "clunk". It was very easy to duplicate on each bike by simply standing on the floorboards and, holding the handlebars, move from side to side. In EACH case, simply re-torquing the end link arms solved the issue. Now for my own personal opinion. (And I know what it's worth!!) I believe that the Ultra bars' powder coat paint on the hex ends of the bar that the arms clamp to, is thick, and initially wears down after a few hundred miles. This wear induces a gap and leads to the "clunk". After a re-torque, both of the bikes I worked on have never re-developed the "clunk", and the owners love their bars. Keep up the good work, Ron!!
 
As stated, here is the follow up from my original post. I have been in contact with Ron and he has been very helpful. I have to eat some crow on this situation. Trying to not overtighten the bolt on initial install and get the dimple right, resulted in it being too tight. The subsequent tightening procedures therefore didn't solve my problem and likely has distorted the bushings. I am currently arranging to purchase some new bushings. There seems to be a problem with emails not successfully making it to Ron based on his post. Will likely have to call him.
Since the the original post, weather and time has allowed a couple of rides. I bought the ultra due to most riding being with a passenger with a combined weight of about 360lbs.

If anyone ever doubts the difference the sway bar can make, just don't. It solves more than one issue. It makes the Spyder stay more upright in the curves and turns and largely eliminates the minor dodging and hunting in the steering that the Spyders do. It will be the best basic performance upgrade you will make.
 
I think there is an email problem of some sort. I have replied. I will start a new email today and abort the ongoing message we had. That may be the problem. My email provider can act a little wonky sometimes.
 
I think there is an email problem of some sort. I have replied. I will start a new email today and abort the ongoing message we had. That may be the problem. My email provider can act a little wonky sometimes.

I think the problem may be mine. We have been swamped with orders and I've been as busy as a 1 armed paper hanger. Then Father's Day had it's own set of obligations (all good,of course. Love those grandkids). But I'm going to try and get this ironed out today with replacement parts on the way. I think we were also waiting on a shipping address there for a bit as well. Being International adds another layer.

There will be no charge for the replacement bushings since there is no way to be sure the problem was not our responsibility.

I must say, this is the first time we've worked out an issue of this kind publically on Spyderlovers!
 
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I want to send some replacement parts to correct your issue. I've emailed you asking for an address to ship to but you have not responded. Don't post your address here, but please contact me with this information so that we can move forward on your fix.


There is something going on with the email. I have sent a reply. It may be the length of that email thread so I started a new email and sent it today. Hopefully that solves the email problem. Likely my email provider as it does some wonky stuff sometimes (17Jun24).
 
So there is finally a conclusion to this issue. Ron supplied me with a new set of bushings, and I used a 1/4 drive ratchet instead of a 3/8 like I did on the first install thereby reducing leverage. I was very careful to not overtighten the bolts and paid close attention to the slot gap and the dimple. This time everything went perfect.
The crow I eat over this experience is well deserved. Ron has been the gentleman everyone says he is. He also is refusing to accept payment for the new set of bushings which I don't agree with but can't change. Obviously, I will continue to purchase from him if he has what I need in the future. He also is the only person I have found to purchase oil filter seal kits from.
In closing, a big thank you to Ron!
 
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Wow, Ron - just WOW. If anyone is wondering about whether to go with a BajaRon or an alternate bar, the amount of customer focus and care shown in the above description and problem solving should take that consideration right out of play. Much appreciated, Ron :2thumbs:

... and it looks like I really should be moving to an Ultra, based on my 300lbs. :thumbup:

Pete

Plus 1 on Ron's approach to helping us. I've bought 3 different anti-sway bars from Ron, the latest is the Ultra-bar for my 2020RT (which I love!). My most recent experience with Ron's shop is this past week, when my rear brake caliper piston could not be adjusted for new brake pads. I sent the caliper to Ron and (for a MOST MODEST fee, he reset the piston and mailed the caliper back to me. I ride the Appalachian's and Smokies a lot and am planning to stop by and see Ron's crew in person sometime this fall. Thanks Ron!
 
Plus 1 on Ron's approach to helping us. I've bought 3 different anti-sway bars from Ron, the latest is the Ultra-bar for my 2020RT (which I love!). My most recent experience with Ron's shop is this past week, when my rear brake caliper piston could not be adjusted for new brake pads. I sent the caliper to Ron and (for a MOST MODEST fee, he reset the piston and mailed the caliper back to me. I ride the Appalachian's and Smokies a lot and am planning to stop by and see Ron's crew in person sometime this fall. Thanks Ron!

Yes, the caliper repair went very smoothly. We've seen a few that were cross threaded. That is a repair that we do not do as once the threads are compromised, it's not worth risking a brake failure by chasing the threads.

We love to see you! Stop by anytime we are open.

Have a great riding season!
 
I think the problem may be mine. We have been swamped with orders and I've been as busy as a 1 armed paper hanger. Then Father's Day had it's own set of obligations (all good,of course. Love those grandkids). But I'm going to try and get this ironed out today with replacement parts on the way. I think we were also waiting on a shipping address there for a bit as well. Being International adds another layer.

There will be no charge for the replacement bushings since there is no way to be sure the problem was not our responsibility.

I must say, this is the first time we've worked out an issue of this kind publically on Spyderlovers!

Would it be possible to get a few clear pictures of the parts (installed) so I can possibly help my friend with this solution? His grandson installed the kit so I have absolutely no knowledge of where/what to look for to attempt a re-tightening of the parts that seem to have been the culprit here.
 
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