• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Apple Car Play download initially failed! NOW Finally available....

When the ACP starts working, it disconnects from the Bluetooth and connects via Wi-Fi automatically.

I think you're thinking of Wireless CarPlay. That is how it works when using a wireless ACP connection.

Wired ACP uses the USB interface only and does not use BT or WiFi at all. The Spyder uses BT to connect to your headset to provide the microphone functionality but that is independent of the ACP connection.
 
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I haven't picked my 2024 Sea to Sky up yet. Should I just mount a Zumo? I have an android phone but was thinking about getting an IPhone for the ACP.
 
When the ACP starts working, it disconnects from the bluetooth and connects via Wi-Fi automatically.
That has not been my experience in the past, and my home WiFi was connecting.

Page 49 of my 2024 Spyder Operators Guide has a section on the Preferences applet. Here are a couple of the items listed:

– Pairing Bluetooth devices:
• Phone
• Driver headset
• Passenger headset
– Connecting the vehicle to a Wi-Fi network

So it does expect the phone to be paired via Bluetooth separate from connecting to a Wi-Fi network.

Page 52 of my 2024 Spyder Operators Guide has a section titled:

Pairing Your Smartphone Through Bluetooth On The Vehicle

I went through those steps previously, and my iPhone was successfully connected.
So as I'm writing this, I'm thinking maybe I need to delete/remove the Bluetooth pairing for the iPhone, and then re-pair it.
 
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I have 2 x Sena 20's. Both connect to the '24 Spyder RT S2S, and if I play music from my phone through the Spyder, it is heard in both helmets. If either person speaks though, you can’t hear the speech in the other helmet. Both have mic’s in them and worked prior to the Can Am, and when not connected through any bike. Anyone know how to get this working?

Thanks
 
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I have 2 x Sena 20's. Both connect to the '24 Spyder RT S2S, and if I play music from my phone through the Spyder, it is heard in both helmets. If either person speaks though, you can’t hear the speech in the other helmet. Both have mic’s in them and worked prior to the Can Am, and when not connected through any bike. Anyone know how to get this working?

Thanks

I have SENAs and this is a function of the headsets. At least on mine. It was called Audio multitasking. I had to download the app to configure this on mine.
 
I just spent over an hour out in the garage with my beautiful Spyder.
And I've decided that Can-Am's implementation of network protocols (and CarPlay) absolutely sucks.

I go out to the garage, open the garage door, hop on my Spyder and start it up.
Plug my iPhone into the cable, and power on the Sena headset in my helmet.

I see multiple connect messages about the iPhone, followed almost immediately by disconnect messages.
The CarPlay icon stays grayed out.

So I go back into the settings and check on the iPhone connection, and it keeps connecting and then disconnecting, over and over.

So I disconnect the iPhone, go into the iPhones bluetooth settings and delete both the entry for my headset and for the Spyder, and then turn Bluetooth off on my phone.
I do the same delete process on the Spyder, making sure there is nothing confirmed to connect via Bluetooth, neither phone or headsets.

Turn the Spyder off.
Turn the iPhone off (completely powered off).
Turn the headset off.

Count to 60 and turn the Spyder on and start the engine.
Turn my iPhone on, and once it starts up, enter the passcode so it's unlocked.

Then the Spyder displays the message about a pairing code, and the message/number appears on the iPhone screen, so I confirm it.

Connect the iPhone to the USB cable in the glove box, and it starts again with the connect/disconnect cycle.
So I unplug the iPhone.

I check the WiFi connection to my home network, and it seems good.
I check for software updates for the Spyder, and it indicates there is an update, but then I get the WiFi disconnected message.
And then WiFi connection starts going through a connect/disconnect cycle.
:banghead:

So I removed the information in the ForSale post I had here on SpyderLovers for the Garmin Zumo XT GPS, and marked it "sold" even though I'm just going to keep it, and put it back on the handlebars.
The Garmin Zumo worked just fine.

So I'll do navigation with the Garmin Zumo until Can-Am actually delivers a working version of CarPlay. :cus:


As I'm typing this there is one other thing I might try.
Standing in front of my house, the garage is on the right end of the house, and my truck is parked on the left side of the garage, and the Spyder is on the right side.
The wireless access point is about 20' to left of the garage, near the middle of the house. I just poked around a bit, and the distance shouldn't be a problem, as it should be reliable up to 50 ft.
The only possible issue is the truck is parked between the Spyder and the wireless access point and the metal in the truck might be blocking or degrading the signal enough to cause the problems.
So later I'll park the truck in the driveway, and move the Spyder to the left side of the garage so it's closer to the wireless access point.

:::sigh::: I just wish it worked. :|
 
It's really sad that 2024 version with ACP and the old version with BRP GO had similar problems with connecting and staying connected, and with intergrading correctly. The TECH field of BRP is just a problem.
 
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I have found that if I wait till everything is hooked up by Bluetooth, and only then hooking up the cable to the phone, that works best for me.
 
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I have found that if I wait till everything is hooked up by Bluetooth, and only then hooking up the cable to the phone, that works best for me.

I'll try that.


And I'm suddenly remembering a little wooden toy my father used to make. He called it a "whimmy whammy", but I've learned it's also called a whammy diddle, a gee haw whammy diddle, or a hooey stick.

It's a about a foot long piece of 1/4" square wood with a series of notches filed along one of the corners. There's a "propeller" attached to one end, and you hold it in one hand with the propeller away from you, then rub a round stick along the notches, which causes the propeller to spin.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gee-haw_whammy_diddle

If you know what you're doing you can cause the propeller to first spin in one direction, then stop, and begin spinning in the other direction.

Here's a youtube video of someone demonstrating one:

https://youtu.be/ChJx1EBibNw?si=22cA2Nb1WagcFrX4

My dad even had a little song he sang while demonstrating it:

Whimmy whammy, whimmy whammy
Please be good to me
And turn around the other way
When I count one, two...three.

He always dramatically paused between two and three, and as he said "three", it would stop, and then start spinning the other direction.

When people asked how it worked, he would say something about singing the song correctly, and how you held your mouth while operating it. My Dad had a very dry sense of humor.

If you watch the video carefully, pay special attention to the contact between the fingers of the moving hand and the stick with the notches.


So maybe getting CarPlay to work has something to do with the way I hold my mouth when I start my Spyder? :D
 
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I have found that if I wait till everything is hooked up by Bluetooth, and only then hooking up the cable to the phone, that works best for me.

This worked for the iPhone.

Took my iPhone and my helmet out to my Spyder and turned the key on, rolled the throttle, and did not connect the iPhone to the USB cable in the glove box.

After a few seconds, the message about the iPhone being connected showed up. I navigated to the Bluetooth menu, and there it was! At that point, the iPhone was still not connected via cable.

Turned on the headset and waited, and... nothing. :(

The headset came with a very small set of instructions. 10 total pages, 2 pages for each of 5 different languages.

The only thing it says about pairing is that it will automatically enter Phone Pairing when you "initially turn on the headset". Which does not mean every time you turn on the headset, only the very first time you turn it on after buying it.

And if you dig into the downloadable version of the manual, the English version of which is 21 pages long, there's a pinhole on one of the speakers that you can poke to do a reset and start from scratch. So you can do a reset, and then turn it on again and pair it.

To turn the headset on or off, you hold down the + and - volume keys at the same time.
Turning it on plays a sound, turning off it says "Goodbye".

And, if you hold down the + and - keys for 5 seconds, THEN the headset goes into Bluetooth pairing mode. :banghead:

So my iPhone and helmet headset are now showing as Bluetooth paired to my Spyder, and my iPhone is also showing that it is paired to the headset. And after doing the pairing steps, and THEN plugging the phone into the USB cable in the glove box, the CarPlay icon is working again.



One of my favorite phrases from when I was still working as a computer consultant and was asked an obvious question, was RTFM.

Which of course means: Read The Fine Manual

:roflblack:
 
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I am glad we have ACP now, but sure wish they would come out with fixes for all the glitches soon - there seems to be a lot of them!
 
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Inconsistency seems to be the only constant for me so far. Leaving the phone plugged in. Plugging it in before starting the bike (which should be the same as leaving it plugged in). Plugging it in after starting and headset is paired. All of them have worked. All of them have failed. The one thing I did after getting back from my last trip is to get an official Apple cable to see if that helps. And in the only small test I was able to do, it did seem to solve a problem I was having with navigation instructions from MyRouteApp cutting out. It was so nice to hear all of the instructions. And, no problems with everything starting up correctly. But this was only one small sample so no way to say it actually resolved anything. Like Hancop, glad to have ACP. Will be gladder when it all works and works consistently.
 
I have good news about my '24 RT's ACP.
I was using a Packtalk Bold headset to connect to my Spyder and an iPhone 8+ for ACP.
I had issues using the mic; and with getting Siri to listen to me.
Well, after doing some checking on the internet, ACP doesn't like a head set with BT 4.1
I tested this out by using my JBL 660NC headphones in the driver's head set location.
The unit paired and ACP was in color.
I talked to Siri, and she answered; I placed a phone call and heard the other party.
So I guess I will be replacing my old Packtalk Bold with a head set with BT 5.X
 
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New 2024 RT Limited. I downloaded the Apple Carplay, updated, and then connect my iPhone and Sena. Everything is connected and the screen shows Apple Carplay. Music works, but the phone does not. Contact list is there, phone call connects, and then there is NOTHING. No ringing, no pickup, no sound. What am I missing?? Both Siri and toggle gives same result. Before the download, the phone, Sena, and bike all worked with music, phone, etc...
 
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iOS 18 beta doesn’t work with ACP. iOS 17 betas work fine. Tried connecting after installing iOS 18 beta and getting not compatible message.

Reported to Apple but I’m rolling my phone back to 17.
 
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It's like John says with my Sena LS2 for Shoei that has Bluetooth 4 - you can't hear it, nor can they hear me. I tried today with my wife's Cardo LS24X with Bluetooth 5, and everything works - finally. It's sad that we are the customers who try to discover how ACP works
 
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You know what they say, KW1M -

“Pioneers usually end up with arrows in their back” :thumbup:

Pete
 
It's like John says with my Sena LS2 for Shoei that has Bluetooth 4 - you can't hear it, nor can they hear me. I tried today with my wife's Cardo LS24X with Bluetooth 5, and everything works - finally. It's sad that we are the customers who try to discover how ACP works


Hmm, that's a couple people with Cardo units with Bluetooth 5.x for whom ACP is fully working. My Sena SRL-Mesh is BT 5.0, but still not working for the phone and barely for Siri (her responses still sound like a slow talking robot). I was hoping that switching to the official Apple cable might help, but apparently not even that is the answer for me.
 
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Still no sound with the phone. I've seen a warning that said no download. But, when I go to the menu and look for software updates, it say none? Sena 20s connects to bike, phone connects to bike, but making a call there is no sound on either ends. Have not seen AppleCar play again, does you phone need to be connected via cable? Do you need to stay connected to the internet? No instruction as to setup or troubleshooting?
 
Have not seen AppleCar play again, does you phone need to be connected via cable?

2024 Spyder Operator's Guide.

Page 50
To use the Apple CarPlay, you must
1. Connect a compatible smartphone to the display via USB cable.
2. Pair a helmet audio system to the display via Bluetooth.

Page 34
The front USB port must be used to run Apple CarPlay.


The "front" USB port is the one in the glove box in front of the handlebars, as compared to the USB ports in the top case, which will only charge USB devices.
 
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