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Does my 2021 Spyder RT need a belt change? Any hints advice on how?

franks

New member
I am new to this site and want to say hi to all the folks with the same interest. I just got my Spyder RT a couple of years ago & took it to the shop to get the oil changed under warranty, but being someone who does a lot of my own work whenever possible, I changed it myself last weekend. While doing the oil change, I noticed my drive belt had a hole right in the middle of the belt, almost like a rock or nail got in there caused the hold and got thrown back out. The hole isn't a 1/4 inch dia, but it looks a little jagged around the edges. I was wondering if it is safe to continue to use this belt? Are there any youtube videos that tell how to change the drive belt on these machines? Thanks for any help or guidance.

Franks
 
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If you only have a hole and it doesn't have any damage around it. I would not be overly concerned. I would keep an eye on it. If you have an owner's manual (it should be in your front storage compartment), it will have some good info on your belt. Bruce
 
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I used the owners manual the other day to change the oil, but I must have missed the part about changing the belt. I will have to go back and spend more time studying it. Any other suggestions or videos on how to change the belt? Also where is the best place to get the gauge to measure the belt tension?

franks
 
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Welcome to the Forum Franks! :welcome:

I've seen a few of those belts now with some fairly significant looking 'holes' in them that have gone on to run a further 80-100,000 miles without any concerns at all! nojoke

So NO, unless the damage is significant (covering more than 1/2 the width of the belt &/or taking out more than just a couple of belt teeth! :p ); extends thru the middle of the belt thru to an exposed edge; &/or it's clearly spreading, just check to make sure that the teeth on belt itself (besides the damaged bit! :) ) AND on both the front & rear pulleys, are still all smooth & not causing further damage; maybe trim any frayed looking 'hairs' around the edges of that hole; and as safecracker said, don't be overly concerned, keep an eye on it, and ride on!! :ohyea:

If you are really concerned, take a pic & post it up here - a picture of things like this are worth a thousand words! :thumbup:
 
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Been running with a hole in my belt for +/- 40,000 miles. Small rock caused it. Marked it with a white paint pen so it is easy to find and I check it periodically.
 
I used the owners manual the other day to change the oil , but I must have missed the part about changing the belt. I will have to go back and spend more time studying it. any other suggestions or videos on how to change the belt? Also where is the best place to get the gauge to measure the belt tension?

franks
https://bajarons.com/ Suggest you call them I don't think the tension gauge is listed on his website.
 
A hole in your belt is not that big a deal. Make sure the offending object is removed as if it transfers to the sprocket it will definitely destroy the belt. Our belts are WAY overkill and much stronger than needed. A single hole will not affect it.
 
I expect to get 250,000 mi from my OEM belt ...... Get one for a spare & watch what happens to yours .....Mike :thumbup:
 
I recently changed the damaged belt on my 2015 RT and didn't loosen anything on the rear wheel. I put the rear wheel in the air and while turning the wheel in reverse direction and pulling outward on the top of the belt walked the belt off of the pulley. There was a bolt that I had to remove to separate the rear part of the frame from the front so I could slip the belt completely off the bike. I installed the new belt by doing the opposite. Turn the wheel forward while starting the belt on the bottom of the pulley. Whole job took an hour and the tension and alignment weren't not affected. WATCH YOUR FINGERS because a nasty pinch can occur.
 
I recently changed the damaged belt on my 2015 RT and didn't loosen anything on the rear wheel. I put the rear wheel in the air and while turning the wheel in reverse direction and pulling outward on the top of the belt walked the belt off of the pulley. There was a bolt that I had to remove to separate the rear part of the frame from the front so I could slip the belt completely off the bike. I installed the new belt by doing the opposite. Turn the wheel forward while starting the belt on the bottom of the pulley. Whole job took an hour and the tension and alignment weren't not affected. WATCH YOUR FINGERS because a nasty pinch can occur.

I'm surprised the tension stayed the same. I would have expected at least a little stretch in the old belt.
 
I'm surprised the tension stayed the same. I would have expected at least a little stretch in the old belt.

190 on the ground according to my kricket. Same as the old belt. I was looking for some difference too but if any it was small. 190 on the ground gives my bike the smoothest ride. Your results may vary.
 
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