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08 GS - Don't trust the 'How To's' - Pulling Codes process didn't work!
- Thread starter BascomWD
- Start date
You do need to be a little careful when you read those How To's, and make sure that what you're reading refers to your particular Spyder Model! :lecturef_smilie:
Most people posting them identify what their year/model Spyder is, altho there's still a few who don't & haven't identified that in their sig line as per the Sticky:
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...l-Add-your-Spyder-Year-model-to-your-Sig-Line!
But in general, those people responding to questions here are at least trying to help, even if they don't realise that the process &/or part on your particular model may be a little different to the process &/or part on theirs, or on anyone else's for that matter!
After all, it should go without saying that any advice sourced for free off the Internet is given in good faith for you to accept or reject as you see fit - even if it does come with a money back guarantee!! :shocked:
And then there's the extra risks associated if you're taking/following advice given to someone else, advice specific to their circumstances... cos that advice may not be exactly or even vaguely correct for you/your model - once again, it's up to YOU to try to make sure that it is! :lecturef_smilie:
Most people posting them identify what their year/model Spyder is, altho there's still a few who don't & haven't identified that in their sig line as per the Sticky:
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...l-Add-your-Spyder-Year-model-to-your-Sig-Line!
But in general, those people responding to questions here are at least trying to help, even if they don't realise that the process &/or part on your particular model may be a little different to the process &/or part on theirs, or on anyone else's for that matter!
After all, it should go without saying that any advice sourced for free off the Internet is given in good faith for you to accept or reject as you see fit - even if it does come with a money back guarantee!! :shocked:And then there's the extra risks associated if you're taking/following advice given to someone else, advice specific to their circumstances... cos that advice may not be exactly or even vaguely correct for you/your model - once again, it's up to YOU to try to make sure that it is! :lecturef_smilie:
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Bfromla
Well-known member
Sorry for your troubles. However, there is no actual 'reset' to the brake failure message. The sensor is just hypersensitive & it "usually" just needs a teaspoon or so fluid added to get it to clear itself! Check to make sure the floats aren't stuck & maybe if the pads need replacing. When all is correct, the message will disappear on the next restart. Parking on inclines (not even steep) can also trigger warnings.
As far as pulling codes goes, understanding is that only active codes will display & many require the engine to be running,
From my notes collected (also, these may be wrong, I don’t have an older spyder to test...)
Retrieving codes
2010 RS:
1. Turn the Ignition key to "ON"
2. Push the "MODE" button to display total hours screen. Start the engine and run until the check engine light (or other fault indication) is displayed.
3. Press and hold the "MODE" button while pushing the "High Beam Flash" button rapidly five times (within 2 seconds).
4. The active faults will be displayed or "No Active Fault Code" will be shown.
5. If you do not get a message, then you didn't get the flash beams sequence done during the allotted time. Try again.
6. Jot the code-number down and check the list in the manual to determine your problem. Share this info with your mechanic.
** also the V slits on diaphragms inside reservoir caps, both are to be pointed to the back of bike. **
As far as pulling codes goes, understanding is that only active codes will display & many require the engine to be running,
From my notes collected (also, these may be wrong, I don’t have an older spyder to test...)
Retrieving codes
2010 RS:
1. Turn the Ignition key to "ON"
2. Push the "MODE" button to display total hours screen. Start the engine and run until the check engine light (or other fault indication) is displayed.
3. Press and hold the "MODE" button while pushing the "High Beam Flash" button rapidly five times (within 2 seconds).
4. The active faults will be displayed or "No Active Fault Code" will be shown.
5. If you do not get a message, then you didn't get the flash beams sequence done during the allotted time. Try again.
6. Jot the code-number down and check the list in the manual to determine your problem. Share this info with your mechanic.
** also the V slits on diaphragms inside reservoir caps, both are to be pointed to the back of bike. **
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ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
08 GS was the first Spyder to hit the market. I had one and it was the first one sold to a customer in Alaska. The dealer snarfed the first two for himself and his wife. :yes:
That first one was a good one and I put 36K miles on it in two years. Our riding season in Alaska was April (if lucky) through October. The leaves were always gone the first week in September. I learned as much about Spyders as I could those first two years. I accessorized mine to the 9's. I did the same for the spouse in 2009. She got one of the first semi-auto's.
Information you find in the how-to's is mostly from later. We were all learning about them then. Many improvements have been made to the line, starting in 2010 with the RT. Yes, I had a premier edition one of those. #474. Glad to see you have one of the "originals." Sixteen years later it is good to hear that there are still some of them around.
Good luck with your new machine. Just be sure to read the "fine print" on some things. :bowdown:
That first one was a good one and I put 36K miles on it in two years. Our riding season in Alaska was April (if lucky) through October. The leaves were always gone the first week in September. I learned as much about Spyders as I could those first two years. I accessorized mine to the 9's. I did the same for the spouse in 2009. She got one of the first semi-auto's.
Information you find in the how-to's is mostly from later. We were all learning about them then. Many improvements have been made to the line, starting in 2010 with the RT. Yes, I had a premier edition one of those. #474. Glad to see you have one of the "originals." Sixteen years later it is good to hear that there are still some of them around.
Good luck with your new machine. Just be sure to read the "fine print" on some things. :bowdown:
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msgoodwrench
Member
I have an 08 also. The brake failure message is as Bfromla says, you probably just need to add a little bit of brake fluid to the reservoir - a very little bit too! It doesn't take much. Also, the method he describes for getting the 'active' codes worked for me on my 08. There are different methods for retrieving codes for different years and models. Finally found the one that worked for mine, and it is the one he suggested.
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
One tablespoon low would make my warning light kick on. The first time was on our descent down Hatcher Pass. A 15 mile or so long hill. That woke me up. A tablespoon of fluid in the reservoir fixed it for me. The second year it happened, I did the same fix. :yes:
PistonBlown
Active member
It always seemed to happen when I was riding at night through the Southern Alps, very distracting even though I knew it wasn't really an issue. One time I covered up the light with some tape
