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2014 ST Surging on Start-Up - Could it be a bad MAP Sensor?

T

TONYO

Member
OK..... Last two times I took my 2014 ST out. Both times aprox. 1 week apart. At start up, it surges..... I gave it a min & it settled down it ran fine on the ride. Today..... One week later, it surges bad and if I just let it idle it cuts off. If I give it a little throttle it kinda pops & surges right on. I did not feel comfortable takin it out! SO..... Someone PLEASE tell me what's goin on with my machine. TYIA :)
 
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TONYO said:
OK.....Last two times I took my 2014 st out. Both times aprox. 1 week apart. At start up it surges.....I gave it a min. n it settled down it ran fine on the ride. Today.....One week later it surges bad and if I just let it idle it cuts off. If I give it a little throttle it kinda pops n surges right on. I did not feel comfortable takin it out! SO.....Someone PLEASE tell me whats goin on with my machine. TYIA :)
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As far as engine management or items related to the engine is your Spyder stock or have modified it ????? .... Mike :thumbup:
 
Well.... I did the canister thing & replaced the plugs & wires with Ron's stuff a couple of years back. And I have a slip-on muffler. Other than that, it's stock. AND... I will say that canister thing is the best thing I ever did for this machine. It's been running great. And it's got non-ethanol gas in it. I did not replace the vacuum hoses and am thinking that could be the issue. BUT I don't know! So.... I am hoping that you guys can help me out a bit before I open it up. TY SO MUCH!
 
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My 14 RT surges a bit on start up but calms right right down. Remember we are fly by wire so I would suspect something in that area may be the issue. That's way over my pay grade to deal with that stuff so I'd have to take it to a dealer for a Can Am spyder service tech to figure it out. Good luck and let us know what solves your problem.
 
Did you put heavier oil in it?

I know when I went from the 5w-30 xps oil to the 15w-40 rotella T-6 if I don't let it warm up some before I head out it will surge and sometimes even stall coming off of a stop if I give it too much gas until the oil warms up during cold weather.
 
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I never had the problem when I went to 10w40. It improved my ability to catch that sweet spot to shift into first/reverse without the KLUNK.
 
TONYO said:
Well.... I did the canister thing & replaced the plugs & wires with Ron's stuff a couple of years back. And I have a slip-on muffler. Other than that, it's stock. AND... I will say that canister thing is the best thing I ever did for this machine. It's been running great. And it's got non-ethanol gas in it. I did not replace the vacuum hoses and am thinking that could be the issue. BUT I don't know! So.... I am hoping that you guys can help me out a bit before I open it up. TY SO MUCH!
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Tonyo you may be on the right track with the vacuum lines (also keep in mind bad fuel can happen anytime). "click: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?155590-ST-with-Check-engine-light-amp-codes-P0107-and-C1290-fixes&highlight=vacuum+lines
 
THANK YOU Everybody! I run Castrol 5/40 oil. My plan is to replace the vacuum hoses. If that don't cure it.... I'll get fresh gas and a bottle of injector cleaner. LAST Resort will be the dreaded dealership!!!!!!!! WISH ME LUCK ALL. :( Thanks again for the input.
 
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CloverHillCrawler said:
Did you put heavier oil in it?

I know when I went from the 5w-30 xps oil to the 10w-40 rotella T-6 if I don't let it warm up some before I head out it will surge and sometimes even stall coming off of a stop if I give it too much gas until the oil warms up during cold weather.
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I use 10W40 Rotella in my 1330 engine and No issues ... and I live in a cooler climate zone than you ..... I don't think it's the oil .... JMHO ....Mike :thumbup:

TONYO said:
Well.... I did the canister thing & replaced the plugs & wires with Ron's stuff a couple of years back. And I have a slip-on muffler. Other than that, it's stock. AND... I will say that canister thing is the best thing I ever did for this machine. It's been running great. And it's got non-ethanol gas in it. I did not replace the vacuum hoses and am thinking that could be the issue. BUT I don't know! So.... I am hoping that you guys can help me out a bit before I open it up. TY SO MUCH!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.... IMHO if the Vacuum hoses are original OEM, this is a common issue.... Get some Silicone hoses & see if it goes away..... Mike :thumbup:
 
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I think your heading on the right track. I would give it a couple shots of a good injector cleaner and get it out on the highway and give it a few good rev's!! And yes, get rid of the bad lines, did it for a friend a few years ago, and he's still thinks it was the best thing I ever did for him!
 
BLUEKNIGHT911 said:
I use 10W40 Rotella in my 1330 engine and No issues ... and I live in a cooler climate zone than you ..... I don't think it's the oil .... JMHO ....Mike :thumbup:
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Most likely it is not his oil, but do you go out riding when it is below 30 deg f like I do? It happens when I am in a rush and just take off from a cold start and don't let it warm up for about 10-15 minutes.

I take the long way around my block now if I do so I don't have to stop at a stop sign. Once the oil has warmed up there is no other issues. I didn't have this issue when running the 5w-30.
 
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CloverHillCrawler said:
Most likely it is not his oil, but do you go out riding when it is below 30 deg f like I do? It happens when I am in a rush and just take off from a cold start and don't let it warm up for about 10-15 minutes.

I take the long way around my block now if I do so I don't have to stop at a stop sign. Once the oil has warmed up there is no other issues. I didn't have this issue when running the 5w-30.
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My expertise is with Tires :roflblack: .... But I think if you are using Synthetic oil ( like Rotella ) the difference between viscosity of 5W vs. 10-W is not significant ..... ask Ron .... Mike :thumbup:
 
OK....I have opened it up. The front hose is no problem. BUT I can't even see the back one. I have taken that airbox out b/4 n said I'd never do that again! LOL... Is there a trick to getting that back one out and replaced? Educate me here guys. I really appreciate you folks knowledge. TYIA Tony
 
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OK Update. I found a video and now know what must be done to get to the back hose. SO, I tried to get the map sensor off and it's very tight. I stripped it out! Imagine that ;) I took off the front hose and looked it over and it has a crack! That made me feel much better. I'm going to the parts store to get a piece of that hose and replace the front one and fire it off with my fingers crossed that the back one is OK. I'm not messing with it anymore today. It's 31 mins. 'til beerthirty. THANKS EVERBODY. CHEERS
 
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TONYO said:
OK Update. I found a video and now know what must be done to get to the back hose. SO, I tried to get the map sensor off and it's very tight. I stripped it out! Imagine that ;) I took off the front hose and looked it over and it has a crack! That made me feel much better. I'm going to the parts store to get a piece of that hose and replace the front one and fire it off with my fingers crossed that the back one is OK. I'm not messing with it anymore today. It's 31 mins. 'til beerthirty. THANKS EVERBODY. CHEERS
Click to expand...

OK .... be advised most of those vacuum hoses LOOKED fine ..... However, the cracks are generally MICRO-SCOPIC .... IMHO, if one was bad, they both are ..... Hope you got it fixed .... Mike :thumbup:
 
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I had two vacuum hoses that looked fine, However, they literally fell off when I touched them because they were so loose on the nipple fittings.
 
OK.... Went to the parts store and got a foot of their 1/8" inside diameter hose. Cut it and slid it on. It's not tight. Spyder won't even start with it. I put my glasses on and measured it and it is actually 5/32...... It was only a buck. So no biggie. The original is 1/8 inside diameter. SO, now my question is... Where do I get the correct diameter hose? I see it on ebay for approx. ten bucks per hose. Is that my only option? I just called Advance Auto and he has silicone that is 3/32 inside. Do ya think that would work? Thanks Everybody. Tony
 
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We used to check for vacuum leaks by squirting starting fluid in the area and listening for an RPM change.
 
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