Just to clarify- after the short run straight ahead and stop- is the belt on the rear 1-2 mm from the inside flange or is the gap larger?
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Recall done. Not sure they put the right sprocket on.
- Thread starter Isopedella
- Start date
Just to clarify- after the short run straight ahead and stop- is the belt on the rear 1-2 mm from the inside flange or is the gap larger?
Isopedella
Well-known member
post #14 has photos
Isopedella
Well-known member
I guess its the noise I hear from the front sprocket from the serious binding, the stink of hot rubber and a belt I hardly hold my hand because of the heat that does it for me.
Last edited by a moderator:
Isopedella
Well-known member
I hear what you are saying. I manually set up up front, middle and rear a few mil. Rotating by hand. Re-check tension. Run it a bit on the blocks and make the fine adjustments with the adjusters. Get it correct and tighten the axle while while its running. Re cheek positions and tension. All A -OK.
Then a road test, say a 10 minute ride the fronts walked out again and the rear has moved out a bit.
Inspection reveals the belt has walked out in front and binding on the sprocket flange, the is belts getting hot and binding. The rear has also moved left and opened up a little.
Repeated attempts to remedy this have failed. Starts out ok but moves while riding.
Short reply is:
I'm not setting it up to run like that, it occurs after running for a bit.
Isopedella
Well-known member
I know I will catch it from all sides here so I'll duck and cover after I hit Post.
Maybe tweak the engine alignment just a bit.
Not a silly suggestion at all. Thanks.
Considering what's occurring, the mounts...
At least check they are secure in the first place.
Naturally I will have to school up on just where they are and correct torques.
I have not really paid them no mind so far so it's worth having a shufty.
I do have a shop manual I got printed out. 2 large A4 folders.
Alignment..... Crikey...
Maybe after I'm sure the sprocket is mounted with the correct new washer distance.
I'm thinking they left the old one on.
It's been suggested the new one may be 5mm and not what I have at 4mm.
Not sure it makes that much difference, but I have stuff occurring so it's worth ticking it off.
.
Last edited by a moderator:
Mikey
Well-known member
And what I am saying is when you do your adjustments you should be getting it to hang somewhere between the 1-2mm off the flange, yes it will drift back and forth, that's the nature of the beast but if it's within that setting, your front and back sprocket should be off the belt! By you trying to make it ride in the middle of your back sprocket the ONLY way you're going to make that work is go get a new shim washer made to go behind the new sprocket! Good luck any way you go! Just remember, that belt is going to walk no matter what, you're not going to stop that.
Last edited by a moderator:
Isopedella
Well-known member
Good grief! Not at all attempting that.
"set up up front, middle and rear a few mil." :banghead:
Last edited by a moderator:
Peteoz
Well-known member
Mikey, Iso is saying that even if he sets up the rear at 1-2mm, the front still rides out and makes strong contact with the outer edge of the front sprocket, resulting in a rubber burning smell and a very hot belt. He is NOT trying to make the belt ride in the middle of the back sprocket.
Pete
Mikey
Well-known member
Guess you got to see it in real life, because I've seen a couple pictures that looked spot on and should be working! Sorry for trying to make the horse drink! I am done!:cheers:
That's the bit that's frustrating Iso so much Mikey!
AFAI can see, he's setting it up all correct on the rear, no more than 1-2 mm off the inside/RH edge... And those are the pics you've seen, Mikey - which show that he's got it set up right initially!! :thumbup:
Only then, when he actually rides it for 10 minutes or so to check it's all working properly, it's NOT, cos the belt walks out on both sprockets - out to the middle on the rear sprocket; and out so far on the front sprocket that it ends up pressing hard up against the LH flange, so hard that if the flange wasn't there, he's concerned that it'd walk itself right off the sprocket... But cos the flange IS there, the belt's pressing onto that flange SOOO HARD that the belt is heating up too hot to touch and smelling badly like it's burning, which in itself is not good!! :shocked:
So that 1-2 mm you are seeing and thinking of as pics of his END result actually isn't the END result of what he's doing; that's where he STARTS, with the belt in the right place; and then when he rides, the belt walks out... just a little on the rear; but a whole lot and disturbingly so on the front! It's THAT FRONT SPROCKET, where the belt ends up 'pressing very hard up against the LH Flange, heating the belt to near burning and threatening to walk off the sprocket over the flange' that's the issue! Make sense now?? :dontknow:
IGETAROUND
Active member
Just a random thought, there are spacers on the axle, could the one on the left hand side of the sprocket not be seated properly or possibly assembled in reverse??? Again, just a thought. Sounds like you are doing all the right things with the adjusters, time to examine how the relationship of the spacers to the axle are.
Al in Kazoo
Al in Kazoo
66Roseracing66
Member
Well since we are all in the game to make a guess. Mine is when they installed the new sprocket, a part in the transmission broke and lets the shaft run out of true. Sure would help if you had the specs on the distance from the case to the sprocket. And if the sprocket shaft has excessive play. OK I am done.
Isopedella
Well-known member
Quick reply. Thanks for all the suggestions. Will review tomorrow morning.
Isopedella
Well-known member
:thumbup:
That's the bit that's frustrating Iso so much Mikey!
AFAI can see, he's setting it up all correct on the rear, no more than 1-2 mm off the inside/RH edge... And those are the pics you've seen, Mikey - which show that he's got it set up right initially!! :thumbup:
Only then, when he actually rides it for 10 minutes or so to check it's all working properly, it's NOT, cos the belt walks out on both sprockets - out to the middle on the rear sprocket; and out so far on the front sprocket that it ends up pressing hard up against the LH flange, so hard that if the flange wasn't there, he's concerned that it'd walk itself right off the sprocket... But cos the flange IS there, the belt's pressing onto that flange SOOO HARD that the belt is heating up too hot to touch and smelling badly like it's burning, which in itself is not good!! :shocked:
So that 1-2 mm you are seeing and thinking of as pics of his END result actually isn't the END result of what he's doing; that's where he STARTS, with the belt in the right place; and then when he rides, the belt walks out... just a little on the rear; but a whole lot and disturbingly so on the front! It's THAT FRONT SPROCKET, where the belt ends up 'pressing very hard up against the LH Flange, heating the belt to near burning and threatening to walk off the sprocket over the flange' that's the issue! Make sense now?? :dontknow:
:clap: :thumbup:
Cheers will double check for the next attempt.
Himmm. While I have had a visual at , yes the spacers are there, sitting nicely at the cush drive thingi and stuff........
Hell why not drop that wheel and have a close look at the spacers and stuff. Cheers.
Yep the spec from the sprocket to the case would be a great thing to know, and the new washer size.
The shaft. I have given it a good tug and a push. Seems normal.
---------
Morning and thanks for the brainstorming.
I must admit it has been doing my head in.
Just walked away a few times and shut the shed door, read a book, go for a walk stuff, anything except that XXXIX sprocket.
-------------------
Pulled out my DR650 and gave it some attention. Full service, swapped out the front guard (less wishy washy in a strong wind) and had a fiddle with some lighting. Took it out for a run and managed to get home with all ribs intact this time. What a simple no nonsense bike that it is. I call it The Marine as it simply gets the job done.
------------------------
Anyhow.
I will go over everything thats been mentioned.
I do not really want to pack it out.
Cept maybe from 4mm to the 5mm thats been suggested as you start using spline contact and threads on the mounting bolt .
--------------------
Got some family stuff going on for a few days so it wont be today, probs next week.
Once again thanks for the thoughts.
Iso
Wmoater
Active member
Here is just a thought to try. I might be completely off base but find the extreme first. I would adjust the rear so far that the belt is now binding against the inside of the rear. Go past it and make that back sprocket and belt tight together and even binding. Make sure that belt is binding on the inside of the rear. Run it and see if the front moves to where it’s suppose to (centered). You can always move the rear out one turn by turn and test to pull the rear out but you have to get a starting point first. Where and when does it run true on the center of the front sprocket. Get that first. So If you have to get that belt binding really bad on the rear that will show if the front needs extra spaces or is it already angled. My fear is you taking the front sprocket off and on so many times that you are going to do more harm than good to that pulley. Also I know this has little do with it but did you clean that belt? I had to clean mine really good in dawn soap and all the squeaking went away. I put one small dab of BRP jet ski oil on the sprocket and that thing is as quiet as possible. I used to have a squealing pig after they installed the new sprocket. Where is the extreme to make the front run centered? Find that first to test your theories.
Last edited:
Similar threads
