Time to drain the engine oil - do I need to warm it up again?

[Rocky105]

Hello All Spyder Lovers,

I started the procedure of changing oil for winter storage on my 2020 Spyder RT Limited bike today.

Went for a ride for around 12 miles to warm up the motor.

While on the road I filled the gas tank and added Amsoil Gasoline Stabilizer before the start of the ride.

Just before jacking up the bike to drain the oil, I was called out to help my best friend and never was able to drain the oil.

When I'm ready to continue my oil change the next day, do I have to warm it back up again by taking the bike for a 10 minute or so drive?

Or, can I continue to drain the oil (now a cold engine) without the pre-warm up?

I know it's best to drain the oil when hot, I would like to know if I need to start all over?

Thank you in advance!

Rocky105

 

[BajaRon]

It's not the end of the world to drain a cold motor. Just better if the oil is hot. It's your call. If you would like to take a nice ride, then great! If not, just do it next time. Consistently draining a cold motor can allow things to build up that should be coming out the drain hole. But once in a while is OK.

 

[BertRemington]

Actually changing the oil after an overnight rest is beneficial because the dry sump engine needs time to drain back into the crankcase. If temperature isn't below 60F and you're using BRP/LM oil then you're good.

 

[2dogs]

Any crud in your oil should be captured in your oil filter. That's why you have one. But, 10/40w drains slowly so make your choice. Go check your air filter and the tranny filter and wash the windshield and get a cup of coffee and by that time all the oil will all have drained out.

 

[Gwolf]

It is not only about having the oil warm, which makes it flow better. Another reason to drain the oil soon after riding is, the oil has been circulating and it is well stirred with many of the small particles still suspended in the oil if you drain it soon after the engine has been running. Opening the drain plugs while the particles are suspended in the oil will get them out of the engine. If you wait until the next day, some of the particles will have settled out and will not drain with the oil. It is the same as shaking your bottle of Italian dressing before you pour some on your salad. The herbs and spices will be mixed evenly in the vinegar and oil. You will get more flavor on your salad if you pour the dressing on immediately after shaking, than if you shake it up today, then pour it on your salad tomorrow.

Most of the dirty stuff will come out with the old oil anyway, but more of it will still be suspended in the oil if the oil is warmed up and you drain it before the particles have time to settle out in all the little nooks and crannies inside your engine.

The truth is, the dealership probably does not warm the engine up and drain it immediately after it gets back to the shop, when they service vehicles. If you are changing your own oil, you should try to get all the foreign particles out with the old oil that you can.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

IMHO the hot vs. cold thing really applies - if you're going to change the oil & filter and then continue riding (no winter lay-up) .... I let my oil Drain for days or longer because I only do it once per year, After riding season ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[baxter]

Helpful to know the interval between last oil change and miles on current oil. If you change regularly, see no reason to warm up.

 

[BajaRon]

Actually changing the oil after an overnight rest is beneficial because the dry sump engine needs time to drain back into the crankcase. If temperature isn't below 60F and you're using BRP/LM oil then you're good.

I am sorry. I don't mean to be rude, but I do not see the logic here since any oil draining back into the 'Dry Sump' crankcase would be coming from the reservoir, which you should also be draining at the same time. It has been well documented that you will remove more contaminants draining freshly heated oil than not.

It is not only about having the oil warm, which makes it flow better. Another reason to drain the oil soon after riding is, the oil has been circulating and it is well stirred with many of the small particles still suspended in the oil if you drain it soon after the engine has been running. Opening the drain plugs while the particles are suspended in the oil will get them out of the engine. If you wait until the next day, some of the particles will have settled out and will not drain with the oil. It is the same as shaking your bottle of Italian dressing before you pour some on your salad. The herbs and spices will be mixed evenly in the vinegar and oil. You will get more flavor on your salad if you pour the dressing on immediately after shaking, than if you shake it up today, then pour it on your salad tomorrow.

Most of the dirty stuff will come out with the old oil anyway, but more of it will still be suspended in the oil if the oil is warmed up and you drain it before the particles have time to settle out in all the little nooks and crannies inside your engine.

The truth is, the dealership probably does not warm the engine up and drain it immediately after it gets back to the shop, when they service vehicles. If you are changing your own oil, you should try to get all the foreign particles out with the old oil that you can.

You are exactly right on all counts! And why, for your last comment, we pull your Spyder up on the lift as soon as you arrive for an oil change.

 

[BertRemington]

I know it's best to drain the oil when hot, I would like to know if I need to start all over?

I was answering a specific question not providing general advice.

Generally with today's oils and filters, whatever miniscule particles that manage to get past the filters remain suspended in the oil rather than precipitating into the crankcase and HCM. The benefits of "hot" oil are viscosity not particle suspension and with the BRP/LM oils drain viscosity is adequate at 60F.

Those who are truly concerned with draining every last bit of particle-suspending oil will change the HCM filter at every oil change, which is what I do ... after a late breakfast with a "SoCal" cold engine that sat overnight on the ramps and now is above 60F. The main source of suspended particles in the 1330cc oil is abrasive clutch friction material. I don't know what percentage of those particles are captured by the HCM filter as I've never disassembled one but the $100 investment is well worth it to me.

 

[Rocky105]

Helpful to know the interval between last oil change and miles on current oil. If you change regularly, see no reason to warm up.

Hi Baxter,

I purchased the bike this year in March 2023 and was told they changed the oil before storing last year. The mileage was around 3,000 when I purchased the bike and now has just over 6,000 miles. So, not knowing if this was changed for sure before storage from the seller, I though it would be best to play it safe and change the oil before I storage the bike.

Thank you Baxter for you response and your option.

 

[Rocky105]

I want to thank every Spyder Lover for responding to my question on oil change after warmup & a day later when draining the oil is a good idea.

I really think this is a great forum to educate and share riders' options that share the same love for the Can-Am Spyder!

All responses were all legit. So, I decided to warm my bike again to cover the best practice of maintenance procedures, as long as the weather permits.

My wife tells me here in NH, it has rained 17 out of 20 weekends this riding season. :gaah:

Rocky105

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hi Baxter,

I purchased the bike this year in March 2023 and was told they changed the oil before storing last year. The mileage was around 3,000 when I purchased the bike and now has just over 6,000 miles. So, not knowing if this was changed for sure before storage from the seller, I though it would be best to play it safe and change the oil before I storage the bike.

Thank you Baxter for you response and your option.

:clap: .... Consider using a quality ....FULL SYNTHETIC OIL .... when you change it .. I & many others here are using Rotella T-6 either 5W40 or 10w40 /..... it lasts longer than Dino or Blended oils ... Plus it is easyer for initial start when it's cold ..Mike :thumbup:

 

[djh3]

I know I know, it's an old thread. But here goes. If bike last ran at temperature and sits, would not the bad stuff be mixed and settled into drain area? So I'll go with the salad dressing picture. Shake and mix, then store bottle with the drain (cap) @ bottom. Open at later time and let me know how much partials don't make it out. To me if your warming it up your staring it all up and have a better chance of small bits of whatever going up inside somewhere behind voids that it had drained down from.

 

[BajaRon]

I know I know, it's an old thread. But here goes. If bike last ran at temperature and sits, would not the bad stuff be mixed and settled into drain area? So I'll go with the salad dressing picture. Shake and mix, then store bottle with the drain (cap) @ bottom. Open at later time and let me know how much partials don't make it out. To me if your warming it up your staring it all up and have a better chance of small bits of whatever going up inside somewhere behind voids that it had drained down from.

The worst of the contaminants will settle out into every part of your engine and transmission as the oil cools. The oil thickens and runs out slower cold than it does hot. This means that a fair amount of contaminants will be left with a cold oil change. When you heat the oil, not only does it stir up the contaminants into suspension, but the oil flows much faster and tends to take these suspended contaminants with it. That's your difference between a hot and a cold oil change.

 

[Dasmoetorhead]

Just go for a ride, and get some enjoyment plus getting the engine nice and warmed up.

Oops! Old thread. I got suckered in again. :duh: :banghead: