Spyder RS-S 2011 SE5 - Low Voltage battery - any ideas/suggestions?

[Albertuuu]

Hello. I just bought a Can Am Spyder RS-S 2011 SE5, but I have some problems with the voltage. He doesn’t even start, only with cables/jumper. I changed my battery with other one from my other Can Am Spyder (GS 2008) and it’s not from the battery. I changed the rectifier, same. It has 11.5V on idle and at 3000rpm has 11.8, around here. I checked the stator with the static test, and is not shorting in the stator and it has continuity. The stator In dynamic test has 18V at idle. Any ideas/suggestions?

 

[BajaRon]

Sounds like a bad battery. See if you can get it to full charge with a battery charger. It should have a standing voltage of 12.4 to 12.6. Engine running voltage should be between 13.5 & 14.2. If you still have issues, you'll need to Load Test it.

The listed Cold Cranking Amps should be 300-350.

Spyders are very voltage sensitive. If you have a weak battery, it will create all kinds of issues.

Also, clean, tight battery connections, both + & -, are critical. These need to be checked as well.

 

[Albertuuu]

Sounds like a bad battery. See if you can get it to full charge with a battery charger. It should have a standing voltage of 12.4 to 12.6. Engine running voltage should be between 13.5 & 14.2. If you still have issues, you'll need to Load Test it.

The listed Cold Cranking Amps should be 300-350.

Spyders are very voltage sensitive. If you have a weak battery, it will create all kinds of issues.

Also, clean, tight battery connections, both + & -, are critical. These need to be checked as well.

I tried to charge it, firstly it starts, works ok. If I stop and start it again, it doesn’t start. I will try again to start it again when is fully charged to Load test it.

 

[Peter Aawen]

I tried to charge it, firstly it starts, works ok. If I stop and start it again, it doesn’t start. I will try again to start it again when is fully charged to Load test it.

That's a classic sign of a dead battery! It'll get up to the correct charge level on a charger, but if just one start kills it = dead battery! :banghead: You probably should load test it to confirm, but I reckon it's time for a new battery! :lecturef_smilie:

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

When you correct any battery issues and if you continue to have the low charging voltage problem, we need to re-visit your stator. But first, find your RFB fuse and ensure that it is not blown. It may not be in this exact location, but it looks like this. It is a 60 amp fuse inside of that rubber enclosure, and it is in the wire harness that goes from the rectifier to the battery.

The charging system tests are performed at 4000 RPM. DC charging system voltage to the battery terminals should be 13.0 to 14.0 volts DC. The stator dynamic test at 4000 RPM should be 60 Volts AC. Check all 3 phases. If a phase has failed or the stator output is significantly low, just replace it and be done with it. See the attached pics. Good Luck.

 

[Albertuuu]

When you correct any battery issues and if you continue to have the low charging voltage problem, we need to re-visit your stator. But first, find your RFB fuse and ensure that it is not blown. It may not be in this exact location, but it looks like this. It is a 60 amp fuse inside of that rubber enclosure, and it is in the wire harness that goes from the rectifier to the battery.

The charging system tests are performed at 4000 RPM. DC charging system voltage to the battery terminals should be 13.0 to 14.0 volts DC. The stator dynamic test at 4000 RPM should be 60 Volts AC. Check all 3 phases. If a phase has failed or the stator output is significantly low, just replace it and be done with it. See the attached pics. Good Luck.

I checked the stator, it has around 50 Volts AC at 4000rpm at all 3 phases. Is it bad?
And I have another fuse box under my seat in right, there is a 60amp rectifier and it is good. Is there another one in rubber enclosure?
And with battery charged at 12.8 before start, now it has 12V at idle and 12.4 around 4000rpms
My battery is good, but something drained it to 8V before I charged it, my stator plug was taken out too in this time.

 

[Freddy]

The specs in reply 5 say 60volts at 4000rpm.

12.4v at 4000 rpm shows no charge going to battery. Burnt stators on these trikes are very uncommon but your symptoms indicate it is at fault.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/403995584464


Hey Doug - what page of service manual are those pix on? I can't find them.

EDIT: only on 2013+ bikes I now see. https://www.ktmhobart.com.au/part/canam/710003081

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I checked the stator, it has around 50 Volts AC at 4000rpm at all 3 phases. Is it bad?
And I have another fuse box under my seat in right, there is a 60amp rectifier and it is good. Is there another one in rubber enclosure?
And with battery charged at 12.8 before start, now it has 12V at idle and 12.4 around 4000rpms
My battery is good, but something drained it to 8V before I charged it, my stator plug was taken out too in this time.

Yeah, Very sorry for the confusion. Just my luck I don't have a diagram for the 2011 specifically - just happen to have ones before then and after then. So, yes, the 60 amp fuse under your seat was used for the DC output from the rectifier / regulator. But later, that fuse is actually a spare - it is still installed - but they used a fuse in that rubber enclosure instead. So, just to be sure, follow your wire harness and see if you do have that rectangular rubber enclosure in the wire harness. If you do then check that fuse, also. Don't just give them a visual inspection, but remove them and test them.

Yes, it looks like your stator output is low, but check one more thing. It won't take long. Follow the black wire leaving your rectifier / regulator connector - which is your DC negative, and see where it attaches to the frame ground. I believe it goes to that common ground connection that is that bolt under the seat. The RT's went directly to the battery but I believe the RS goes to the frame ground. But, follow the wire to wherever it goes and make sure that connection bolt and all of the connectors are clean and tight.

All of the test procedures for all years, seem to show that the minimum AC output should be 60 VAC at 4000 RPM. Those stators fail infrequently, but it does happen.

 

[Albertuuu]

Hello there, again…

So, I changed my stator, battery, and regulator, but it's still under voltage... At idle it has 11.8V, sometimes 12.2V. If I throttle it, then it charges a little bit. What do you think?

 

[Freddy]

That's most unfortunate. Have you checked and cleaned earth cables and wires as previously suggested? And redo the test procedures.

 

[Albertuuu]

That's most unfortunate. Have you checked and cleaned earth cables and wires as previously suggested? And redo the test procedures.

I checked some cables and wires, but not all because I don’t know where they are placed.

 

[Freddy]

There is a 50amp fuse in the charging circuit under the seat. Have you checked it?

 

[Albertuuu]

There is a 50amp fuse in the charging circuit under the seat. Have you checked it?

View attachment 203401

Yes, i found it in that fuse box under the seat on right side..I see in photo that is another 30amp fuse?

 

[Freddy]

Good - now do some more checking with a multimeter.

Good luck with it.

 

[Albertuuu]

Hello there, again... I found the problem - DPS unit.
So... If I have my fuses in, it has 12v at idle and if at the same time I turn the steering bar, it has 12.6-7v for the moment I move it.
If I remove one or both fuses, I have 13.5v at idle and everything's good, but I get the 'Check Engine' message and 'Check DPS' (sometimes the gearbox doesn’t work because of this error).. I saw some people on the forum saying that they removed them and the error not appearing. What do you think? Is there a way to make errors to disappear?

 

[ThreeWheels]

Hello. I just bought a Can Am Spyder RS-S 2011 SE5, but I have some problems with the voltage. He doesn’t even start, only with cables/jumper. I changed my battery with other one from my other Can Am Spyder (GS 2008) and it’s not from the battery. I changed the rectifier, same. It has 11.5V on idle and at 3000rpm has 11.8, around here. I checked the stator with the static test, and is not shorting in the stator and it has continuity. The stator In dynamic test has 18V at idle. Any ideas/suggestions?

Hello there, again... I found the problem - DPS unit.
So... If I have my fuses in, it has 12v at idle and if at the same time I turn the steering bar, it has 12.6-7v for the moment I move it.
If I remove one or both fuses, I have 13.5v at idle and everything's good, but I get the 'Check Engine' message and 'Check DPS' (sometimes the gearbox doesn’t work because of this error).. I saw some people on the forum saying that they removed them and the error not appearing. What do you think? Is there a way to make errors to disappear?

The DPS is the largest draw on the electrical system. I'm guessing what you describe sounds like normal behavior.
It still might be a bad battery.
After all, you are troubleshooting a bad battery from a 2011 Spyder with one from a 2008 Spyder.
Either have the battery(s) load tested or just break down and buy a new battery.

I once had a light bulb go out, so I replaced the bulb. Still no light. I spent hours troubleshooting the circuit, even replacing the breaker, only to find out eventually the second bulb was also faulty.
A third bulb, and there was light.

 

[Albertuuu]

The DPS is the largest draw on the electrical system. I'm guessing what you describe sounds like normal behavior.
It still might be a bad battery.
After all, you are troubleshooting a bad battery from a 2011 Spyder with one from a 2008 Spyder.
Either have the battery(s) load tested or just break down and buy a new battery.

I once had a light bulb go out, so I replaced the bulb. Still no light. I spent hours troubleshooting the circuit, even replacing the breaker, only to find out eventually the second bulb was also faulty.
A third bulb, and there was light.

I just bought one new because the old one left me. :spyder:

 

[safecracker]

Your DPS could be the problem. I lost my DPS a month ago and it was a huge power drain. It was heating up. I ordered a new DPS and when I stopped by the dealer to pick it up, I instead upgraded from a 2011 to a 2021. Good luck, Bruce