Oil - why would you use Rotella T6, a diesel oil, in your Spyder?

[mecsw500]

BRP recommends 5W for two reasons .... #1.- it's what they sell .... and #2.- their oil is not FULL Synthetic ..... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:

The synthetic blend won't affect the difference between 5W and 10W ratings though, but it is curious that BRP only specifies a synthetic blend in 5W40 especially with a 9,300 mile change interval. Like you say it is NOT fully synthetic (but nearly priced like one). A fully synthetic oil will probably better retain its quoted flow ratings over the life of the oil plus have numerous other benefits.

Outside of warranty and dealer services I will probably switch to a fully synthetic oil of the correct specification for wet clutches. I won't care about the 5W or 10W winter rating though. Until that time I'll just let the dealer use XPS and change it every 5,000 instead of 10,000 miles.:thumbup:

One point I didn't make clear in the original reply is that I implied that the oil behaved as a thicker 40 weight when it got hot, of course it doesn't, it flows quicker than when cold, but it provides the protection of a straight 40 weight oil at its operating temperature.

 

[troop]

And, here is some more food for thought. The American Petroleum Institute (API) does not have any industry standards on the amount of synthetic content in synthetic blend/partial synthetic labeled oils. NO manufacture will admit to what the actual synthetic content is, citing " proprietary information". 5%, 10%, ?? You can bet it is likely pretty low...

 

[Rednaxs60]

Always read these oil threads. When I bought my 2014 Soyder RTL last year, went through the owner's and service manuals to determine what oil I should use. Owner's manual indicates a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or a synthetic oil meeting API service SL, SJ, SH, SG or higher classification. There is a notice that indicates : "Do not add any oil additives to the recommended oil. This may lead to gearbox and clutch malfunctions." No mention of the JASO standard.

Having an older '85 Honda Gold Wing, designed for use before the JASO standard that came out in 1999, I use what Honda specified which is similar to what is in the Spyder owner's manual. A good, quality high detergent oil with no friction modifiers.

I look primarily for the API donut with the lower half left blank. This indicates there are no friction modifiers in the oil. The oil formulations I use are a European formulation and most, if not all, have an API donut with the lower half blank. If there is no API donut, then look for the JASO standard.

Shell Rotella generally has this style of API donut attached - the upper half details the API standard. The pic attached is to illustrate the lower half being blank. Some oil labels are now omiting the API donut for whatever reason. For myself, it's the API donut first then the JASO standard.

Only motorcycle I own that mentions the JASO standard is the Himalayan.

The oil I use is attached. The API donut on the label has the lower half left blank, no friction modifiers in this oil.

Lots of different choices out there depending on what you want.

Just my take on the JASO standard.

 

[AbNormy]

WHY NOT??? IT's JASO MA2 rated. Good for MCs with wet clutches and cats. Good for a 9K run too, according to my analyst's reports. That's due to the heavier additive package that Diesels require for engine longevity. That benefits gas engines too.

i knew that bike looked familiar! Servi-Cycle! Barber Museum is the boss!

 

[Jane1330]

Over 100,000 miles on my 16 F3-T, T6 wurkz 4 ME!

 

[bikerbillone]

Now there's a testimonial.

 

[Jetfixer]

Always read these oil threads. When I bought my 2014 Soyder RTL last year, went through the owner's and service manuals to determine what oil I should use. Owner's manual indicates a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or a synthetic oil meeting API service SL, SJ, SH, SG or higher classification. There is a notice that indicates : "Do not add any oil additives to the recommended oil. This may lead to gearbox and clutch malfunctions." No mention of the JASO standard.

Having an older '85 Honda Gold Wing, designed for use before the JASO standard that came out in 1999, I use what Honda specified which is similar to what is in the Spyder owner's manual. A good, quality high detergent oil with no friction modifiers.

I look primarily for the API donut with the lower half left blank. This indicates there are no friction modifiers in the oil. The oil formulations I use are a European formulation and most, if not all, have an API donut with the lower half blank. If there is no API donut, then look for the JASO standard.

Shell Rotella generally has this style of API donut attached - the upper half details the API standard. The pic attached is to illustrate the lower half being blank. Some oil labels are now omiting the API donut for whatever reason. For myself, it's the API donut first then the JASO standard.

Only motorcycle I own that mentions the JASO standard is the Himalayan.

The oil I use is attached. The API donut on the label has the lower half left blank, no friction modifiers in this oil.

Lots of different choices out there depending on what you want.

Just my take on the JASO standard.

If the API donut has "Energy Conserving" or "Resource Conserving" in the bottom, it has modifiers that will not get along well with our clutches.

 

[sledge]

I noticed people talking about using Shell Rotella T6. T6 is diesel oil, according to what people mentioned. Since when and why would you use diesel oil in place of a4 stroke motorcycle engine oil?

my thoughts exactly , I was a Tractor / Trailer Mechanic for about 20 years , thats the only Oil we ever used , not that its Bad or anything , but.....just seems strange to me too. J.M.O.

 

[pegasus1300]

I use it because it is a good oil, and it is cheap. It has a JASO ma2 rating and seems to hold up for at least the oil change interval I use, 4500 miles.

 

[Tango]

BRP oil is not JASO rated. Check the bottle. Just saying. They make it for use in all of their engines. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:

 

[Jane1330]

Look up MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for CanAms oil for a good read....

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BRP oil is not JASO rated. Check the bottle. Just saying. They make it for use in all of their engines. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:

BRP markets an Oil that some refiner makes ..... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[redrazor]

:clap: I've been using Rotella T 15w-40w in all my vehicles for many years! The BEST in cars, trucks, motor cycles. No problems!! Especially in our mild California weather. :2thumbs:

 

[carbonation]

I noticed people talking about using Shell Rotella T6. T6 is diesel oil, according to what people mentioned. Since when and why would you use diesel oil in place of a4 stroke motorcycle engine oil?

To answer directly, it's an oil that meets the specification, is priced competitively, and has a strong following.
The rest of the answer is more complex. Just because it's a diesel oil does not mean it can't be put in anything else. That just means it is marketed and labelled toward a target audience. T6 is a heavy duty oil, made from Shell's XHVI stock. It's a GrpIII synthetic made from slack wax using a Solvate Dewaxing process. Diesel oils usually have small amounts of silicone present to minimize foaming because there are several diesel engines that use oil pressure to fire the injectors. These HEUI engines are very hard on oil, shearing it over time. Some high pressure oil pumps in modern diesels run at 36,000 PSI. Any trip through a Spyder oiling system will be a cakewalk for Rotella.
Back in the 80's, Suzuki MC oil at every dealer world wide was repackaged/rebadged Rotella conventional, so Shell has been in the common sumps of bikes for over 40 years.
You don't feel good about running a diesel oil? Cool... Maybe you'll like the idea of an airplane oil instead.
Note the JASO MA spec, 10w40, synthetic blend, especially for Rotax in ultalight aircraft. This oil would likely outperform Rotella, but it not readily available, and is considerably more expensive.
https://aviooil.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/AeroShell-Sport-Plus-4-TDS.pdf

 

[Tango]

Look up MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for CanAms oil for a good read....

Might you have a link? Google brought up everything but Can AM oil. :helpsmilie: Tom :spyder:

 

[K80Shooter]

Might you have a link? Google brought up everything but Can AM oil. :helpsmilie: Tom :spyder:

Try this https://xpslubricants.com/media/safety_data_sheets/779133_EN.pdf

Personally the msds is no different than many others I've saw. I see nothing alarming to me that any other oil/fuel would have in it.

 

[carbonation]

Try this https://xpslubricants.com/media/safety_data_sheets/779133_EN.pdf

Personally the msds is no different than many others I've saw. I see nothing alarming to me that any other oil/fuel would have in it.

Can't tell much from a MSDS. the oil they list is 64742-54-7, a paraffin base oil, and depending upon the process is either GRP II, GRP II+ or GRP III. Nothing special about it.

 

[K80Shooter]

Can't tell much from a MSDS. the oil they list is 64742-54-7, a paraffin base oil, and depending upon the process is either GRP II, GRP II+ or GRP III. Nothing special about it.

One of the other members posted this "Look up MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for CanAms oil for a good read...." and another posted this " Might you have a link? Google brought up everything but Can AM oil. Tom " so I was merely posting that for him.

 

[redrazor]

To answer directly, it's an oil that meets the specification, is priced competitively, and has a strong following.
The rest of the answer is more complex. Just because it's a diesel oil does not mean it can't be put in anything else. That just means it is marketed and labelled toward a target audience. T6 is a heavy duty oil, made from Shell's XHVI stock. It's a GrpIII synthetic made from slack wax using a Solvate Dewaxing process. Diesel oils usually have small amounts of silicone present to minimize foaming because there are several diesel engines that use oil pressure to fire the injectors. These HEUI engines are very hard on oil, shearing it over time. Some high pressure oil pumps in modern diesels run at 36,000 PSI. Any trip through a Spyder oiling system will be a cakewalk for Rotella.
Back in the 80's, Suzuki MC oil at every dealer world wide was repackaged/rebadged Rotella conventional, so Shell has been in the common sumps of bikes for over 40 years.
You don't feel good about running a diesel oil? Cool... Maybe you'll like the idea of an airplane oil instead.
Note the JASO MA spec, 10w40, synthetic blend, especially for Rotax in ultalight aircraft. This oil would likely outperform Rotella, but it not readily available, and is considerably more expensive.
https://aviooil.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/AeroShell-Sport-Plus-4-TDS.pdf

:2thumbs: I just bought a 2.5 gal. (10qt) (big) bottle of Rotella T6 15-40w at AutoZone for $80!! That's only $8 per quart!! :clap: WAY cheaper than anything you can buy if you get it by the quart or gallon!! :yes:

 

[carbonation]

:2thumbs: I just bought a 2.5 gal. (10qt) (big) bottle of Rotella T6 15-40w at AutoZone for $80!! That's only $8 per quart!! :clap: WAY cheaper than anything you can buy if you get it by the quart or gallon!! :yes:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rotella-T6-Full-Synthetic-5W-40-Diesel-Engine-Oil-1-Gallon/102646780?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=1188&adid=22222222277102646780_117755028669_12420145346&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=501107745824&wl4=pla-294505072980&wl5=9022297&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=102646780&wl13=1188&veh=sem_LIA&gclid=CjwKCAiA9NGfBhBvEiwAq5vSyysjDldMEi7daFQxS6so0lRm6K69qPCk4ODJEZeMj7ZfEb7Z8LkADBoCCAsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
6.18 a quart. (Sorry to burst the bubble.... VatoZone isn't cheap.)