Auto Tire on Front of the Spyder

[WaltH]

I just installed new car tires on the front of my Spyder. I am now using Sumitomo HTR 200 175/65R14, which are 10mm wider than the OEM tire with the sidewall 6.5mm taller. They fit under the fender okay, but just barely. The fender does not sit dead-center over the tire. This was not apparent with the OEM tire. I have plenty of clearance on the inboard side, but just enough on the outboard side. I shaved a little from the top inside of the mudflap which cannot be seen. If the tire was dead-center under the fender, I would have plenty of clearance on both sides.

The Sumitomo HTR 200 (made in Japan) cost $60 plus $10 for balancing and mounting. My total cost for two tires on the Spyder with sales tax and disposal fees was $152.40. The HTR 200 is also available in the proper size for the rear of the Spyder (225/50R15). It would be possible to have the same tire on all three wheels. I already have the gForce tire on the rear.

I am carrying 35 psi in the front and the rear. It is working just fine in the rear. I will keep an open mind on the front. I intend to keep you informed of how it is working out.

After 700 miles on the new front tires my big surprise was that cornering is noticeably improved. Others have mentioned this in the past, but I was sceptical until I experienced it for myself. Since the tires are only 10mm wider, it must be that the sidewalls are stronger. Perhaps there is less give in the sidewalls.

 

[SpyderWolf]

Definitely keep us informed on how they perform.

I was told, but don't know if it is true or not, that the Kenda tires on the front were designed to roll over on the sidewall a little in hard cornering situations without pulling off the rim. Thus they recommended I only replace the fronts with the same Kenda tires, but said the back would not matter. :dontknow:

 

[krb1945]

Did I read the air pressure...

correctly... 35 psi all around? If that number is correct does it make the ride harsh? I like that thread design though.

I use 20 front and 28 rear for a nice smooth comfortable ride. I tried 32 rear but it made the rear bounce to much on the roads I frequent. / Ken

 

[ataDude]

That appears to be a bi-directional tire. Do you have any concerns about wet riding?

.

 

[WaltH]

correctly... 35 psi all around? If that number is correct does it make the ride harsh? I like that thread design though.

I use 20 front and 28 rear for a nice smooth comfortable ride. I tried 32 rear but it made the rear bounce to much on the roads I frequent. / Ken

I don't have enough experience with the new front tires to know how I feel about the 35 psi. If the front bounces too much, I will go to 30 psi. The gForce tire on the rear seems to be working out just fine at 35 psi. I ran the OEM tires at 25 psi in the front and 30 psi in the rear. My front pressure was higher than most, but well within the max for the tire. It seemed to work well for me.

My OEM front tires were replaced at 34,035 miles. There was faster wear on the inboard side of both tires. I also had this same wear pattern on my first Spyder until 36,500 miles at which time the Spyder burned. I don't know what causes the higher wear on the inboard side. If the wear pattern had been uniform, I think the tires would have gone to 40,000 miles. Others have reported the unusual wear pattern I experienced. It looks like positive camber, but as we know the camber is not adjustable. There is a specification for camber (zero degrees) but no way to adjust. Some say toe-out can give this result, but this is beyond my pay grade.

 

[WaltH]

That appears to be a bi-directional tire. Do you have any concerns about wet riding?

.

Yes it is a bidirectional tire. I am concerned about wet riding; however, this tire does have a very good rating for wet traction, for whatever those ratings are worth. I wish I had more confidence in the rating system. I will keep an eye on this as I get more experience.

 

[ataDude]

Yes it is a bidirectional tire. I am concerned about wet riding; however, this tire does have a very good rating for wet traction, for whatever those ratings are worth. I wish I had more confidence in the rating system. I will keep an eye on this as I get more experience.

:thumbup:

.

 

[bone crusher]

Risky...but let us know how it goes...

I actually like the stock tires and since they're tested on the bike, we know they're safe...I guess as more of us try alternatives, we'll know what works and what doesn't...hopefully, everyone will be safe with tire changes...

I'd sooner play with the rear tire than the fronts. I think no matter what is done, a water dispersement tire is needed on the rear...

 

[Firefly]

Definitely keep us informed on how they perform.

I was told, but don't know if it is true or not, that the Kenda tires on the front were designed to roll over on the sidewall a little in hard cornering situations without pulling off the rim. Thus they recommended I only replace the fronts with the same Kenda tires, but said the back would not matter. :dontknow:

:agree:

Considering the OEM tires are only $62 each online--- I don't see any benefit in taking a risk on another tire that you have to play with pressures to make work. The low pressure and soft sidewalls were done for a reason.

 

[effgjamis]

:agree:

Considering the OEM tires are only $62 each online--- I don't see any benefit in taking a risk on another tire that you have to play with pressures to make work. The low pressure and soft sidewalls were done for a reason.

And where is that LINK...... for the OEM tires for $62 ?????

 

[sabunim5]

And where is that LINK...... for the OEM tires for $62 ?????

+1 for link please

 

[krb1945]

Toe-out wear

I had an old vw bug that was toe out on the rear and it always would eat up the inside of the tires.

I really like radials and I'm keeping my eye out for the right sizes and thread patterns for this machine.

I was having such poor results with the m/c tires on my GL1800 I went to the "Dark Side" on the rear. To get the front end to stop wobbling at low speed I had to install the complete traxxion system. But once that was done... it was like the difference between night and day. I couldn't believe I was riding the same Wing the day I got it back. When you have good springs and shocks on both forks things work much better. /Ken

 

[Firefly]

I got mine from :

DGY Motorsports
216 Ogden
Downers Grove, IL 60515
630-971-2602

Here's a link right to the tires--- down at the bottom in the parts finder.

http://www.dgy.com/fiche_select.asp?mfg=Can-Am&partnumber=706200498+

My total bill for 2 tires was:

Item Total: $121.48
Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $17.95
Order Total: $139.43


______________________

I had sent an email to Jackie @ http://robsperformance.com/

But she wasn't in the office so I ordered from DGY. Jackie emailed back a few days after I ordered from DGY and told me she will sell them for $60 each + shipping.

 

[WaltH]

:agree:

Considering the OEM tires are only $62 each online--- I don't see any benefit in taking a risk on another tire that you have to play with pressures to make work. The low pressure and soft sidewalls were done for a reason.

I am only describing the choices I have made. I am not suggesting anyone else should necessarily do the same thing. You must do what is right for you. If you are not comfortable with anything other than the OEM tire, then your path is clear.

For me, the decision to "go auto" on the front was less compelling than it was for the rear tire, but there were enough advantages to tip the scales. I don't feel that safety was a factor in either the front or the rear. In both cases the replacement tires are classified as "performance tires" and they have a speed rating of 130 mph. When riding my Spyder, I do not test the outer limits of man or machine. I ride just to have fun.

 

[txknight67]

:agree:

Considering the OEM tires are only $62 each online--- I don't see any benefit in taking a risk on another tire that you have to play with pressures to make work. The low pressure and soft sidewalls were done for a reason.

I don't know about the price, but the reason for the low pressure's and soft sidewalls can be summed up in one word; SAFETY. Same reason certain tires are "recommended" for different passenger cars. I have always played with tire sizes, ratings, sidewall stiffness to find the tire that gives me the handling and responsiveness I want. Have had to argue with many a tire salesman until they gave me what I was asking for or even comprehended what I was asking for....now that I have found Tire Rack; :cus: the tire store salesmen. No more arguing.:2thumbs:

 

[darren]

I don't know about the price, but the reason for the low pressure's and soft sidewalls can be summed up in one word; SAFETY. Same reason certain tires are "recommended" for different passenger cars. I have always played with tire sizes, ratings, sidewall stiffness to find the tire that gives me the handling and responsiveness I want. Have had to argue with many a tire salesman until they gave me what I was asking for or even comprehended what I was asking for....now that I have found Tire Rack; :cus: the tire store salesmen. No more arguing.:2thumbs:

:agree:You hit the nail on the head,Safety as we all know safety is number one, but i found that the std tyre are just not up to what i like my spyder to handle like. I done the shocks sway bar and they made it lot better, but still felt wrong going into corners so i felt that the tyres are not up to scratch, so first thing i done was put 25 psi in the frount WOW so much better by the way the std tryes say they can take up to 30 psi.
But the walls are soft on the std with a number of 41 rated i think,
so i done some looking at car tyres I am now running Dunlop 702 silica 14/185/60 with a rating of 81 in the side walls, feels great the tyres are soft compound and rated high speed. Im happy "BUT ITS UP TO THE OWNER TO MAKE THERE OWN MIND UP" "I like it it, works for me.hyea:
View attachment 4946

 

[WaltH]

:agree:You hit the nail on the head,Safety as we all know safety is number one, but i found that the std tyre are just not up to what i like my spyder to handle like. I done the shocks sway bar and they made it lot better, but still felt wrong going into corners so i felt that the tyres are not up to scratch, so first thing i done was put 25 psi in the frount WOW so much better by the way the std tryes say they can take up to 30 psi.
But the walls are soft on the std with a number of 41 rated i think,
so i done some looking at car tyres I am now running Dunlop 702 silica 14/185/60 with a rating of 81 in the side walls, feels great the tyres are soft compound and rated high speed. Im happy "BUT ITS UP TO THE OWNER TO MAKE THERE OWN MIND UP" "I like it it, works for me.hyea:
View attachment 4946

Darren: I would sure like to see some pictures of your 185mm tires on your Spyder showing the clearances you have with the fenders. I didn't go with the larger tire because of concern that I would not have enough clearance with the fenders. I am running 175/65R14 and there is not much extra room.

 

[krb1945]

Question... motorcycle tire vs car tire

Has anyone ever seen a motorcycle tire, M/T, that was actually better than the top car tires, C/T?

Please keep in mind that M/T's have a smaller contact patch, lower load capacity, less thread life, less thread depth and usually cost 2 to 3 times as much.

The top line C/T's have the same speed ratings all the way up to "Z", better traction, temperature, load capacity, thread depth, thread life, half the cost for better quality, etc. These are just a few of the reasons many road cruiser M/C's are going to what is call the "Dark Side"! The top quality car tires are safer for cruising but always remember they are "not" for performance riding or racing.

I know you get the idea of what I am saying... I'm not suggesting that you use any particular tire... what I am suggesting is the CT's are better all around.

The reason I feel this way is... in my more than 750,000 miles of driving vehicles both on the public highways and on a race track I have never had a car tire or truck tire blow out, maybe I've just been lucky. I have never had a C/T damage my equipment or damage me. But in some of those same miles I have had two MT's let go and create lots of damage, expense and pain. The second time was on the evening of November 30, 1987. An almost new "V" speed rated motorcycle tire let go on my New V65 Sabre. Several hundred dollars damage to the Sabre and broke both my arms in 5 places. After 3 years everytime the weather changed my busted up elbows and wrists reminded me of that night. This tire was one of the top MT's installed by the manufacturer and was at the proper pressure. It was a flat new surface asphalt highway and the tire did not have a puncture or cut.

Now you see why I use the best Perelli, and I know this one is a bad word in many eyes, michelin, Kumho, etc. I no longer use goodrich because out of the last six on one of my sedans... three had large bubbles under the thread as soon as they were mounted. A fourth one has bubbled in less than 2000 miles. The dealer is replacing it next week.

Point is - run the tire that you are most comfortable using. But get the best quality you can afford.

If you have personal experience running both M/T's and C/T's on two and three wheelers and believe I have incorrectly stated the facts I encourage you to elaborate so we can all be safe. /Ken

 

[steven888]

185/60/14 is a perfect fit with no problems.

 

[SpyderWolf]

Darren, welcome !

That is a very interesting tire thread pattern. It looks like it has some serious rain grooves on them. Have you had the chance to try them out in the rain yet? I am wondering if they handle deeper water well without hydroplaning?