-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Auto Tire on Front of the Spyder
- Thread starter WaltH
- Start date
Firefly
Active member
:agree: with the difference in weight etc. Just sayin', the sway bar is only half of the equation, regardless of the weight on the front. The other half is a combination of the tire and the shocks. OH, scratch that, the softness of all the bushings is another part of the equation.
Again, there are a lot of trade offs the manufacturer has to consider when selecting pieces parts. #1 is safety; what exposes them to the least amount of liability. Is it the "best" choices for performance, I doubt it. The only vehicles those choices are made on are cars like the Viper track model, the Corvette ZR-1, and almost all the Ferrari's and Lambo's. And bikes like the Hayabusa and the Ducotti's(sp?). And even those it depends on what model you buy.
Over inflating the factory tires won't give one the same "feel" as an auto tire as that reduces the contact patch on the road.
The other thing I am thinking of doing is firming up the shocks. I was leaving them at the middle setting until I got more familiar with the bike and what it and I could do. I think I am too the point of playing with settings. I am starting to notice the "body" roll affecting where I want to aim the bike in a corner where when I first bought it I didn't.hyea:
Firming up the shocks will make a big difference for you. I took mine all the way up --- but that was a bit much--- so I stepped them back one notch. Handles MUCH better--- and then the swaybar made at least as much of a difference--- if not more.
When you go to adjust them---- spray them with WD-40 first and let it soak on a bit---- then jack the spyer up to take the pressure off. This will help you keep from breaking the cams--- which many have done.
I run my fronts at 17-18 psi and rear around 26-27.
txknight67
New member
Thanks for the tip.
The owners manual says to jack it to adjust the rear, but I don't remember it saying that for the front.
It doesn't, but it is highly recommended. Several people have broken the clips off of the shocks. I jacked mine up, and put lube on them and they still turn very hard.
bone crusher
Alignment Specialist
I guess I was lucky...no lift...just put the 'wrench' on them and turned...no problems at all...
BajaRon
Well-known member
Running 18~20 psi in the front tires probably effects sidewall stiffness more than contact patch. Our front tires are not a wide aspect and the tread width is relatively narrow while the sidewall is relatively tall.
The rear is exactly the opposite with a wide aspect tread and a narrow sidewall. Increasing tire pressure in the back will cause a bigger difference in tread footprint than it will in sidewall stiffness. This is easy to prove as most of the wear is in the center of the rear tire even at recommended pressures.
One of the first things I noticed in the demo videos of the Spyder was the large amount of roll under on the front tires. I was well aware of it in hard cornering when I finally got mine. Running 20 psi in the front helped but I'm sure I'm still getting some roll under.
One of the advantages to the car tire I'm running is the stiffer tread surface. I am sure it puts more rubber on the road than the stock tire because of the flatter tread section. And it should wear better for the same reason.
On the negative side, a wider footprint can increase hydroplaning. That is why it is very important to get a good wet weather tire and not just any car tire that will fit.
As far as the "Negative" post, just treat it as a speed bump, run over it and keep going! :yes:
You were, Jacked mine up lube them and still broke one cam:yikes:
Over the years i've ajusted many on my bikes atv's even on my mud covered rhino and never broke one. I guess there's always a First time.
BajaRon
Well-known member
You are very lucky! These cams are a weak link and you run a big risk of breaking them if you don't lift the front and take the weight off first.
Similar threads
