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Crankcase breather filter

BLACK WIDOW

New member
Does anyone know of a in-line foam filled filter that can be taken apart to change the foam when needed. I have used catch cans, and they work but take a lot of room and some leak. The in-line filter would be a much neater and simpler fix for the oil in the air box.:dontknow:I think with all the innovative folks on this forun that someone has done this. I really don't like the idea of simply stuffing some foam down the vent hose.nojoke

Michael:doorag:
 
Does anyone know of a in-line foam filled filter that can be taken apart to change the foam when needed. I have used catch cans, and they work but take a lot of room and some leak. The in-line filter would be a much neater and simpler fix for the oil in the air box.:dontknow:I think with all the innovative folks on this forun that someone has done this. I really don't like the idea of simply stuffing some foam down the vent hose.nojoke

Michael:doorag:
If you want a replaceable foam, in-line filter element, I'd try a removable element fuel filter. I have one about one-and-a-quarter of one-and-a-half inches in diameter in my stash that would work. Don't know the name of it, but Summit or one of the other auto suppliers should have one. I'd remove the element and cut and stack circles of Uni-Filter air filter foam to fit. This sounds like an interesting idea, I might try it in the Spring. Easier to inspect and replace than foam in the hose, and more surface area to vent through. It might collect oil like a catch can, but a fuel filter shouldn't leak.
 
Scotty

If you want a replaceable foam, in-line filter element, I'd try a removable element fuel filter. I have one about one-and-a-quarter of one-and-a-half inches in diameter in my stash that would work. Don't know the name of it, but Summit or one of the other auto suppliers should have one. I'd remove the element and cut and stack circles of Uni-Filter air filter foam to fit. This sounds like an interesting idea, I might try it in the Spring. Easier to inspect and replace than foam in the hose, and more surface area to vent through. It might collect oil like a catch can, but a fuel filter shouldn't leak.[/QUOTE/]

Thanks when I wrote in my post "innovative" I was actually thinking of you.nojoke I have actually been looking for a filter (as you described) but cannot find one that can be taken apart. All the fuel filters I have found are the disposable type. Thanks for the info. I'll try Summit. Wonder if the foam that is used in lawn mower air filters would work?

Michael:doorag:
 
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Thanks when I wrote in my post "innovative" I was actually thinking of you.nojoke I have actually been looking for a filter (as you described) but cannot find one that can be taken apart. All the fuel filters I have found are the disposable type. Thanks for the info. I'll try Summit. Wonder if the foam that is used in lawn mower air filters would work?

Michael:doorag:
I suppose the lawnmower filters might work. I'd inspect them often, since I have seen them break down pretty badly on a lawnmower. I think a dirt bike filter or the universal Uni-Filter media would be more durable.
 
Does anyone know of a in-line foam filled filter that can be taken apart to change the foam when needed. I have used catch cans, and they work but take a lot of room and some leak. The in-line filter would be a much neater and simpler fix for the oil in the air box.:dontknow:I think with all the innovative folks on this forun that someone has done this. I really don't like the idea of simply stuffing some foam down the vent hose.nojoke

Michael:doorag:

I "stuffed" some oil impervious filter media in my crankcase breather hose at about 1.5K miles when I discovered oil in the airbox after reading a post about it. I also made sure not to fill my Spyder oil more than 1/2 way between add and full. I check both the filter media in the line and the air box at every service interval (every 3k miles). No problem with my filter media and no more oil in the airbox. This is a simple fix to any easily solved problem. IMHO a lot of people are over complicating the solution to this problem. Go low tech, inspect at reasonable intervals and relax. I'm at 12k miles and climbing with no problems. :D Try it You'll Like It :ohyea:
 
I "stuffed" some oil impervious filter media in my crankcase breather hose at about 1.5K miles when I discovered oil in the airbox after reading a post about it. I also made sure not to fill my Spyder oil more than 1/2 way between add and full. I check both the filter media in the line and the air box at every service interval (every 3k miles). No problem with my filter media and no more oil in the airbox. This is a simple fix to any easily solved problem. IMHO a lot of people are over complicating the solution to this problem. Go low tech, inspect at reasonable intervals and relax. I'm at 12k miles and climbing with no problems. :D Try it You'll Like It :ohyea:
Good advice! I do the same, and it seems to work fine, but I haven't been able to put on many miles to test it this year. Those doctors and hospitals sure get in the way of riding!
 
:agree:
I "stuffed" some oil impervious filter media in my crankcase breather hose at about 1.5K miles when I discovered oil in the airbox after reading a post about it. I also made sure not to fill my Spyder oil more than 1/2 way between add and full. I check both the filter media in the line and the air box at every service interval (every 3k miles). No problem with my filter media and no more oil in the airbox. This is a simple fix to any easily solved problem. IMHO a lot of people are over complicating the solution to this problem. Go low tech, inspect at reasonable intervals and relax. I'm at 12k miles and climbing with no problems. :D Try it You'll Like It :ohyea:
:agree::agree::agree:
 
Can be cleaned...

The Crank Case filter vent tube I describe in one of the post on this subject can be taken apart and cleaned or you can replace the foam media.
 
I bought a Suzuki dirt bike filter, 1/2 inch thick. It makes many 1/2 inch cubes, so I have lots of periodic replacements. So far, no oil problems and zero foam deterioration. Don't think I'll bother with a plastic case.
 
I have a glass bowl filter with removable chrome ends. The stock hard filter washable "stone" that came with it can be removed, the glass filter tube filled with foam and then the "O" ring sealed end caps screwed back on. This should work nicely plus it will let you see the condition of the foam inside it. I forgot where I got it...had it practically forever.
 
I suppose the lawnmower filters might work. I'd inspect them often, since I have seen them break down pretty badly on a lawnmower. I think a dirt bike filter or the universal Uni-Filter media would be more durable.
Are you putting this foam substance in the end of the hose you remove to get into the air filter compartment? Is this hose how the oil gets into the air filter compartment?:dontknow: Just trying to learn something New each day.
 
Here is one that can be...

taken apart. You can clean it or just replace the foam media. The attached picture shows the components I use and a completed assembly. If you need assistance pm me. /Ken OEM-krb1945
 
Are you putting this foam substance in the end of the hose you remove to get into the air filter compartment? Is this hose how the oil gets into the air filter compartment?:dontknow: Just trying to learn something New each day.
Short answer...yes. I pulled off the hose and stuck in some Uni-Filter foam. Others have put the foam into screw-together fuel filters, etc. Others have added fuel screen and foam, or even additional tubing. I feel the nipple that the hose attaches to at the airbox will keep the foam in place. It might be more effective in a more vertical location in the hose, farther from the airbox, though. No problems for me thus far.
 
Are you putting this foam substance in the end of the hose you remove to get into the air filter compartment? Is this hose how the oil gets into the air filter compartment?:dontknow: Just trying to learn something New each day.
Sarge, you don't normally disconnect the crankcase vent hose to get into the air filter compartment. The hose which is disconnected is the IACV (idle air control valve ) hose, and you dont want to put any foam in it. The hose that gets the foam is the crankcase vent hose, found on the left side of the engine, running from the aft cylinder to the bottom of the airbox. You have to remove the Oetiker clamp at the top of the hose, where it enters the plastic nipple at airbox. Insert the foam, and replace the Oetiker with a screw type clamp.
 
Sarge, you don't normally disconnect the crankcase vent hose to get into the air filter compartment. The hose which is disconnected is the IACV (idle air control valve ) hose, and you dont want to put any foam in it. The hose that gets the foam is the crankcase vent hose, found on the left side of the engine, running from the aft cylinder to the bottom of the airbox. You have to remove the Oetiker clamp at the top of the hose, where it enters the plastic nipple at airbox. Insert the foam, and replace the Oetiker with a screw type clamp.
Thanks for clearing this up, Neez. I was too quick to answer without seeing the fine detail in the question. Foam does go in the hose...but it has to be the correct hose.
 
the location of the filter vent tube and the location is on the left side of the engine if you are sitting on the seat facing forward.

Here is the link... http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15589

This is a picture of the the tube and location. /Ken
Thanks for All the info!! Since I got my oil level Right! (Thanks to this group!!) I see very little oil moisture in the airbox area and NONE on the filter itself so for now I,ll leave well enough alone at least until it warms up a LOT?
 
Short answer...yes. I pulled off the hose and stuck in some Uni-Filter foam. Others have put the foam into screw-together fuel filters, etc. Others have added fuel screen and foam, or even additional tubing. I feel the nipple that the hose attaches to at the airbox will keep the foam in place. It might be more effective in a more vertical location in the hose, farther from the airbox, though. No problems for me thus far.

Scotty:

I did the same in my SE5, using a piece of foam the size of a thick pencil.

I worked for a while, but it got clogged and pressure built up inside the engine , and produced some small leaks all around.

Removed the foam yesterday, started the engine and..., no visible leaks...

Tomorrow I will wash the engine an try again to see if the leaks subsided.

After I disconnected the hose and removed the foam, I briefly started the engine and the hose spit a bunch of oil droplets everywhere.

What would be an acceptable quantity of oil blow-by every so many miles...?

Mine seem to push up quite a good quantity, and has only 5K + miles on it.

Any pointers...?

Regards, Pilo
 
Hose

Thanks for clearing this up, Neez. I was too quick to answer without seeing the fine detail in the question. Foam does go in the hose...but it has to be the correct hose.

Not only the correct hose but the just right amount and kind of foam in the right hose. I have experimented with the foam in the hose and I think that it is to restrictive to air flow. I also built a cannister with fittings on each end that contained breather foam and after blowing through it I determined that was to restrictive also; So I went back to the catch can (redesigned a bit) and vent to atmosphere through a filter, works great, no restrictions, and absolutely no oil in the air box.

Michael:doorag:
 
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