Remap necessary after cat delete? ... what about ...

[Mike0123]

Is a remap needed after a cat delete on a 2021 RTL?
What about if I move on from that and swap the muffler too, will I need it then?

Looking for a bit more sound, and thinking of starting with the cat delete. We will see after that.
Always open for comments and recommendations.

Thanks as always

 

[Peter Aawen]

Is a Re-map needed after installing a Cat Delete? Nope! hyea:

But it's likely that your Spyder will benefit from starting it & letting it idle for a bit (maybe as much as 10-15 mins or so?! :dontknow: ) so that the ECU can re-establish the 'no load' settings that it uses to work all the others off; then when you do rev it & run it out later on, even if it is run a tad harder than before, the ECU won't have quite so much work to do from the outset. . But if you don't bother with doing that, it's no real biggie - it'll eventually learn what it needs to, hopefully before you get too upset at it popping & crackling on deceleration &/or hesitating when you twist the throttle hard & least want it to hiccough...

Same thing applies if/when you swap the muffler itself later on.... it'll benefit from that idle period first thing after fitting the new muffler if you do it; but even without doing that, it'll still learn how to manage it all in time - the ECU is really a pretty smart thing, well able to handle a fairly reasonable range of variations in air flow in & exhaust flow out, pretty much everything you are likely to be throwing at it with the original inlet & air filter still in place....

However, if/when you start changing/upgrading the air inlet &/or trunking; improving the air filter flow; &/or upping the overall volume of air flow going IN to the engine as well as changing/improving the exhaust flow OUT, then you will probably need to look at re-mapping the ECU or you risk running the engine significantly too lean & causing some issues over time! You might get away without a Re-map then, or at least installing something like the old GS/RSS's 'Power Commander' or maybe even a piggy-back chip; at least it may seem that way initially, but in my experience, eventually you'll pay the price of not getting the ECU Re-mapped to suit the significantly greater air/exhaust flows! :lecturef_smilie:

Over to you... :cheers:

 

[RayBJ]

I have a cat delete w/baffle (no plug) & OEM muffler on my '20 RT and it runs fine with the OEM tune. Adds some volume without being obnoxious. I also have a PV3 tuner with a 'stage 1 tune' that I load when my insanity genes kick in. I didn't like the harsher tone without the baffle.

 

[bigbadbrucie]

I just did my ‘14 RTS. Straight pipe WITH baffle and no plug. I do not have the OEM muffler but have the akrapovic. Got the pipe with baffle from LaMonster. The sound from my Spyder is sweet....not overly loud and NOT harsh. Reminds me of the sports cars that I used hear back in the ‘50’s and ‘60’s. No remapping, but I do get the odd popping on deceleration. I did mine to eliminate some of the underseat heat. Have to wait and see. Well worth the price!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Is a Re-map needed after installing a Cat Delete? Nope! hyea:

But it's likely that your Spyder will benefit from starting it & letting it idle for a bit (maybe as much as 10-15 mins or so?! :dontknow: ) so that the ECU can re-establish the 'no load' settings that it uses to work all the others off; then when you do rev it & run it out later on, even if it is run a tad harder than before, the ECU won't have quite so much work to do from the outset. . But if you don't bother with doing that, it's no real biggie - it'll eventually learn what it needs to, hopefully before you get too upset at it popping & crackling on deceleration &/or hesitating when you twist the throttle hard & least want it to hiccough...

Same thing applies if/when you swap the muffler itself later on.... it'll benefit from that idle period first thing after fitting the new muffler if you do it; but even without doing that, it'll still learn how to manage it all in time - the ECU is really a pretty smart thing, well able to handle a fairly reasonable range of variations in air flow in & exhaust flow out, pretty much everything you are likely to be throwing at it with the original inlet & air filter still in place....

However, if/when you start changing/upgrading the air inlet &/or trunking; improving the air filter flow; &/or upping the overall volume of air flow going IN to the engine as well as changing/improving the exhaust flow OUT, then you will probably need to look at re-mapping the ECU or you risk running the engine significantly too lean & causing some issues over time! You might get away without a Re-map then, or at least installing something like the old GS/RSS's 'Power Commander' or maybe even a piggy-back chip; at least it may seem that way initially, but in my experience, eventually you'll pay the price of not getting the ECU Re-mapped to suit the significantly greater air/exhaust flows! :lecturef_smilie:

Over to you... :cheers:

:agree: and let me add this ,.... after the Cat Delete was introduced, it was discovered that the back-pressure changed .... and not for the good .... So a Baffle was designed and that seemed to inprove or correct the proper pressure the system needed .... JMHO ... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[bigbadbrucie]

:agree: and let me add this ,.... after the Cat Delete was introduced, it was discovered that the back-pressure changed .... and not for the good .... So a Baffle was designed and that seemed to inprove or correct the proper pressure the system needed .... JMHO ... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

and I might add, that if you purchase the cat delete from LaMonster, you automatically get the needed baffle, annnnd the needed Spring Tool if you’re going to do the delete yourself. just sayen.....

 

[Mazo EMS2]

Nope. Install it, then start it up and let it idle for a good 5 minutes at least...maybe 10.