Trailer hitch - is this a good way to temporarily remove it?

[Wmoater]

Due to the price of gas, wife and I are considering a trailer for the spyder rather than using the toyhauler as a home base on long trips. I have never looked at the hitch for the spyder. If I’m looking at this correctly, I will need to remove the hitch part when not used to install into my toyhauler due to the custom chock system. If I install the hitch completely, can I remove these two bolts (highlighted yellow) leave the “wings” (blue) permanently installed on and reinstall the back bracket (red) when needed? I’m ok with wings left on, slide the “u” back in, wrench inside and impact outside and it should take no more than 5 minutes by looks. Is this ok? I will probably only use the hitch two 7 day trips a year probably.

 

[Wmoater]

As a side note I’m looking at the heritage trailer to pull. Just don’t want hitch on when not using and needs removed when we use the toyhauler for short trips.

 

[safecracker]

I believe you can. Is the hitch a BRP hitch or aftermarket?

 

[Wmoater]

Haven’t looked at any specifics as in aftermarket or BRP. Just doing research. Right now I’d say it will probably be BRP like pictured.

 

[K80Shooter]

Why not just remove the one long bolt that runs through the wheel? :dontknow:
It only takes about 5 min. to remove and reinstall that way.
Thats what I used to do when I didn't want it, now I leave it on all the time.

That does look like a BRP hitch, is this an actual pic of your bike?

 

[Copperman]

If you're using a BRP hitch, it's far easier to remove the whole hitch (Remove center axle bolt and slide off hitch.) than to remove the four nuts and bolts you're talking about. It takes just a few minutes to remove it.

 

[Wmoater]

No haven’t bought hitch yet. Just took picture off internet to reference bolts. I figured removing the entire hitch itself would take 30 minutes ore more, Removing the rear axle bolt, brake housing etc? If it’s not long then maybe remove each time, just figured it would take more work than just the 4 bolts on the sides. Just researching before I go look at them.

 

[K80Shooter]

After re-reading your post I see that it's only a pic of one.

On the BRP hitch there is one long bolt that runs all the way through the axle.
Just remove the cotter pin and nut then slide the bolt out. Then just pull the hitch back being careful that it doesn't not catch on the brake cable/line and it's off.

 

[K80Shooter]

You do not remove the axle bolt and brake housing, only the hitch bolt. One and done, 5 minutes tops.
The bolt that I'm referring to runs through the axle bolt.

 

[jaherbst]

Leave the hitch on. Can not think of a good reason to ever remove it. Mine has been on for 10 years and never has a reason to remove it. I do on occasion trailer the Spyder and the hitch has never been a problem.

Jack

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Leave the hitch on. Can not think of a good reason to ever remove it. Mine has been on for 10 years and never has a reason to remove it. I do on occasion trailer the Spyder and the hitch has never been a problem.

Jack

:agree: .... I have trailered my RT and didn't have to remove the hitch to tie it down .... I just used the Strap over the tire ( in-line w/tread )method .... just the rear wheel ...... On a different note.... waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay back I built a NO WELD trailer from 2" PVC sch 40 plumbing pipe. then mounted an 18 cu.ft. Car Top carrier from Sears. Great for shopping and even camping - if you use a tent ..... I weighed it after it was finished and ready to use at 98 lbs., it will haul 298 lbs. of stuff ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Mazo EMS2]

What type of chock system do you have that the hitch would interfere with? The hitch doesn't extend back any further than the trunk does. I would just leave it on.

 

[Wmoater]

For my toy hauler and snowmobile trailer I have the fastest most secure system. Simply snap in the rail system anywhere you want front to back and drive in till front tires hit the bar system with adjustable side to side chock systems. Run one strap around bar and wheel. Snap rear bar system and extend the rear chock up against the rear wheel. One strap around chock and wheel. Done in less than 5 minutes. Beauty is you can back one in pull one in and still use same bars. We use them one the SXS, off-road bikes and wheelers. I don’t have an actual picture, toyhaulers are still in storage but the picture below imagine rear wheel where the front wheel is on motorcycle and you get the jist from the spyder picture. The spyder is pinned between front bar and rear bar so can’t move front or back. The front chocks and rear chocks wrap the tire so they can’t move. Best system for multi purpose or adjustability on the market. I custom made my own system, just bought the chocks from this company but mine looks identical just custom made. Every rally we’ve ever been at people comment how slick, fast and secure it is and completely adjustable.

 

[Wmoater]

If you guys say I can remove the entire hitch with single bolt and not need to remove the actual axle bolt and brakes etc I believe you. I will probably leave the hitch on unless I put in trailer.

 

[Bfromla]

Leave the hitch on. Can not think of a good reason to ever remove it. Mine has been on for 10 years and never has a reason to remove it. I do on occasion trailer the Spyder and the hitch has never been a problem.

Jack

:dontknow: haven’t changed rear tire in ten years?opcorn: :congrats::roflblack:
And Another vote the through bolt, 1 large vs the 4 smaller.

 

[Bfromla]

https://youtu.be/PbmWoN9Vqws shows tools & how simple. Actually can do without a ramp (depending on bending down ability’s ) * did miss showing the cotter pin

 

[obiwanbill]

the rear axle is actually a tube that this rod runs thru, cotter pinned on muffler side and bolted on left side. My first hitch was on a 2006 GS SE5, homemade copy made by machinist pal - one piece as the Spyder factory hitch was too expensive.
Today's hitches are 2 side panels that bolt to this long rod and swing arm designed to stay there, unless if for some God forsaken reason you want to take the darn thing off. There is an U shaped piece that holds the ball for tow and is bolted on with 2 bolts on either side. As the factory hitch price is still outrageous in price and back ordered.
I chose to look aftermarket. On each side, 3 bolts instead of 2 hold the U piece in place. All these videos make it look like a 10 min job. HA! without the fancy hoists and a second guy, it took hours to line it up for these 6 side bolts. eBay sells one for $140, Amazon for $160, Lamonster $289, ...delivered in 2 days for free. Same article as the BRP, just not $800 and back ordered.

 

[Wmoater]

https://youtu.be/PbmWoN9Vqws shows tools & how simple. Actually can do without a ramp (depending on bending down ability’s ) * did miss showing the cotter pin

Nice video. Now I see what you guys meant! Easy peeve! Now to start researching the actual trailer type. I’ll post that separate.