engine oil ????????????????

[SPYDERGUY1]

reading many many many posts on engine oil specs , recommendations, and etc etc etc. I AM SO CONFUSED. How can BRP recommend a lubricant that does not even meet their own spec/guidelines. Have read about amsoil, red something or other and numerous other breeds and brands. BRP can not deny warranty if issues arrise due to the use of their recommended lubricant. Am I wrong ?? If so can someone please set me straight. Thank you.:dontknow:

 

[Firefly]

reading many many many posts on engine oil specs , recommendations, and etc etc etc. I AM SO CONFUSED. How can BRP recommend a lubricant that does not even meet their own spec/guidelines. Have read about amsoil, red something or other and numerous other breeds and brands. BRP can not deny warranty if issues arrise due to the use of their recommended lubricant. Am I wrong ?? If so can someone please set me straight. Thank you.:dontknow:

Well - I was going to give you this link:

http://www.neversatisfiedmotorsport...age=product_info&cPath=2_11_16&products_id=84


and tell you that you can buy the real BRP synthetic oil for $6.99 a quart -- but now they are charging $10.95.

I bought 60 quarts---so I'm set for many years.... (yeah-- I'm crazy like that when I think I've found a deal!)

 

[BajaRon]

reading many many many posts on engine oil specs , recommendations, and etc etc etc. I AM SO CONFUSED. How can BRP recommend a lubricant that does not even meet their own spec/guidelines. Have read about amsoil, red something or other and numerous other breeds and brands. BRP can not deny warranty if issues arrise due to the use of their recommended lubricant. Am I wrong ?? If so can someone please set me straight. Thank you.:dontknow:

Confusion is created only in the mind. It's really not a big deal. The more you know about it the less you'll be concerned.

If nothing else, what BRP has done makes my point exactly. They don't even sell the the recommended full synthetic oil anymore.

First, BRP does not make any oil products. They buy from an oil producer and slap their label on the can/bottle. It amazes me how some people struggle to conceptualize this. Your Spyder cannot read the label on the can. All it cares about is getting a good quality oil to lubricate the parts.

The recommended weight of 5w-40 is just a starting point, not an end all. A quality, full synthetic oil like AmsOil, Mobil 1 and others is the most critical factor. As long as you get in the ballpark of the recommended weight you’re Spyder (and you) will never know the difference. Though I would not recommend going lighter than the recommendation, going a bit heavier, especially on the low end, isn’t going to make any difference. The difference between 5w and 10w isn’t enough to worry about unless you’re starting the Spyder in VERY COLD weather. Once at operating temp it isn’t going to matter at all.

10-40 weight will work just fine in the Spyder. Why someone would use a blended oil is beyond me. “Blended” is just a marketing term to make cheap, diluted Synthetic oil sound better than it is.

Get a good, fully Synthetic oil in a 5-40 or a 10-40 and live a long and happy life. You can probably get a great, full Synthetic oil for about what you'd spend on a BRP quart of "Blended" oil. You'll ger more protection and extended engine life. This will free you up to expend your energies on more worthy issues.... Like which tire to put on the back when this one wears out!

 

[boborgera]

reading many many many posts on engine oil specs , recommendations, and etc etc etc. I AM SO CONFUSED. How can BRP recommend a lubricant that does not even meet their own spec/guidelines. Have read about amsoil, red something or other and numerous other breeds and brands. BRP can not deny warranty if issues arrise due to the use of their recommended lubricant. Am I wrong ?? If so can someone please set me straight. Thank you.:dontknow:

Read Your Operator's Guide= Page 82= Recommended Oil.

The Key Word Is= " EQUIVALENT"

 

[Dudley]

From the first oil change AFTER my break-in service, I have used Royal Purple 10W40 Synthetic Oil. I just turned 30,000 miles today, seven days after our Spyder's first anniversary. I change the oil every 5,000 miles and don't worry about any warranty issues. If I get any, then I will deal with them. We have a 2008 SE5 that has been just awesome! What oil should anyone else choose??? It's not for me to say, but I am sold on Royal Purple.

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

OIL

Confusion is created only in the mind. It's really not a big deal. The more you know about it the less you'll be concerned.

If nothing else, what BRP has done makes my point exactly. They don't even sell the the recommended full synthetic oil anymore.

First, BRP does not make any oil products. They buy from an oil producer and slap their label on the can/bottle. It amazes me how some people struggle to conceptualize this. Your Spyder cannot read the label on the can. All it cares about is getting a good quality oil to lubricate the parts.

The recommended weight of 5w-40 is just a starting point, not an end all. A quality, full synthetic oil like AmsOil, Mobil 1 and others is the most critical factor. As long as you get in the ballpark of the recommended weight you’re Spyder (and you) will never know the difference. Though I would not recommend going lighter than the recommendation, going a bit heavier, especially on the low end, isn’t going to make any difference. The difference between 5w and 10w isn’t enough to worry about unless you’re starting the Spyder in VERY COLD weather. Once at operating temp it isn’t going to matter at all.

10-40 weight will work just fine in the Spyder. Why someone would use a blended oil is beyond me. “Blended” is just a marketing term to make cheap, diluted Synthetic oil sound better than it is.

Get a good, fully Synthetic oil in a 5-40 or a 10-40 and live a long and happy life. You can probably get a great, full Synthetic oil for about what you'd spend on a BRP quart of "Blended" oil. You'll ger more protection and extended engine life. This will free you up to expend your energies on more worthy issues.... Like which tire to put on the back when this one wears out!

I would totally agree with everything you have stated. The only thing I would add is when selecting your oil (full synthetic group 4) just make sure it is formulated for motorcycles and not for automobile engines. JASO/MA is the only motorcycle rating recommended for a wet clutch.

Michael:doorag:

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

Oil

Read Your Operator's Guide= Page 82= Recommended Oil.

The Key Word Is= " EQUIVALENT"

Absolutely (or better):thumbup:

Michael:doorag:

 

[krb1945]

many of us...

think AMSOIL synthetic 10w-40 motorcycle oil is the best. Many think the BRP synthetic is the best, many think mobile one is the best, some think shell rotella synthetic was the best. The shell rotella is no longer safe to use because it now has friction modifiers which is a no no for wet clutches. Every now and then you might find a left over gallon or two of the old style rotella in a store but not often. Anyway, it is all a matter of what you like or how high a price you want to pay. The best synthetics which use the top grades of ester bases are expensive but when you are taking care of a high revving, high performance engines most are willing to get the best lubricant available.

I use AMSOIL and I have been using it since 1982. I have 13 machines, trucks, tractors, motorcycles, sedans, etc., on the road at any given time and it has never let me down. Many others will say the same about their brand of oil. I will attest to this... since starting to use the AMSOIL I have never had to do a rebuild on any engine and one of my old John Deere tractors is a 1955 with thousands of hours of run time and it still runs and pulls like when it was new. Oil brands are all subject to interpertation. Best thing I can say is... use the brand you like and are comfortable with.

I will tell you this AMSOIL only uses the best grade of ester base that exxon makes.

If you want to use it... I have a license and I will drop ship it to your door for exactly what I have to pay $8.50 a qt plus tax and shipping. That is the price I paid last week... I haven't checked the price this week and as we all know price can change at any time. This just gives you an idea of the cost. /ken

 

[wyliec]

I believe someone on this post eluded to the fact that we should not use a blended oil. I take my spyder in for all the maintenance and they use the BRP blend oil.

My spyder has been in for the 600 mi., 3000 mi., and 6000 mi. Since this is what is recommended by BRP, if anything goes wrong, there should be no warranty issue.

I'm not trying to get into a debate of full synthetic vs blend; nor am I concerned about the price of one vs another. Just trying to find out why I should not use a blend when this is what BRP recommends at this time.

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

Amsoil

think AMSOIL synthetic 10w-40 motorcycle oil is the best. Many think the BRP synthetic is the best, many think mobile one is the best, some think shell rotella synthetic was the best. The shell rotella is no longer safe to use because it now has friction modifiers which is a no no for wet clutches. Every now and then you might find a left over gallon or two of the old style rotella in a store but not often. Anyway, it is all a matter of what you like or how high a price you want to pay. The best synthetics which use the top grades of ester bases are expensive but when you are taking care of a high revving, high performance engines most are willing to get the best lubricant available.

I use AMSOIL and I have been using it since 1982. I have 13 machines, trucks, tractors, motorcycles, sedans, etc., on the road at any given time and it has never let me down. Many others will say the same about their brand of oil. I will attest to this... since starting to use the AMSOIL I have never had to do a rebuild on any engine and one of my old John Deere tractors is a 1955 with thousands of hours of run time and it still runs and pulls like when it was new. Oil brands are all subject to interpretation. Best thing I can say is... use the brand you like and are comfortable with.

I will tell you this AMSOIL only uses the best grade of ester base that exxon makes.

If you want to use it... I have a license and I will drop ship it to your door for exactly what I have to pay $8.50 a qt plus tax and shipping. That is the price I paid last week... I haven't checked the price this week and as we all know price can change at any time. This just gives you an idea of the cost. /ken

Amsoil is a excellent oil and that is a good price. I used Amsoil in my motorcycles until Wal-Mart started carrying Mobil 1 4T Motorcycle oil. It is just very handy and convenient to buy theirs. Mobil 1 4T is also a excellent oil.nojoke Exxon/Mobile does sell it's base to others that market a true synthetic (group 4) oil.

Michael:doorag:

 

[BajaRon]

I believe someone on this post eluded to the fact that we should not use a blended oil. I take my spyder in for all the maintenance and they use the BRP blend oil.

My spyder has been in for the 600 mi., 3000 mi., and 6000 mi. Since this is what is recommended by BRP, if anything goes wrong, there should be no warranty issue.

I'm not trying to get into a debate of full synthetic vs blend; nor am I concerned about the price of one vs another. Just trying to find out why I should not use a blend when this is what BRP recommends at this time.

Using a blend is ok. It will do the job. You're just paying more for an inferrior product. It's difficult to see any advantage there.

For the same money (or probably less) you can get a full synthetic oil which will do a better job of lubrication, cooling, and impurity suspension for a longer period of time than any blend.

Warranty issues are a Red Herring. It just will not happen with any reasonable maintence and decent quality oil. Some less than honest dealers love to perpetuate this fallacy. And unsuspecting owners pass it along. I suppose this one will never die.

 

[Just Doo Me]

Bajaron well were on the subject of oil changes , any idea on the micron rating of the BRP filter versus the ones you deal in?

 

[jima1153]

Has anybody actually had a failure due to different oil blend/type in a Spyder? I don't recall any such posts here since I have become a member.

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

Oil

Has anybody actually had a failure due to different oil blend/type in a Spyder? I don't recall any such posts here since I have become a member.

And you may not ever see those posts since the effect of increased wear on certain parts (with inadequate oil quality) may not show up soon. Its just like a person that eats all the wrong foods; When the effects show, it may be to late.nojoke I use the best motorcycle oil I can find, because for me, it is just personal satisfaction and peace of mind.

BTW: I'm not saying that your Blended oil is a bad choice--its just not your best choice.


Michael:doorag:

 

[krb1945]

Black Widow is correct...

you will not see the excess wear on the internal parts until it is too late. Once the parts are worn out the only way to fix it is with new parts, very expensive. Prevent the excess wear by using the best oil and filter you can get. It will pay off with a longer engine life and better performance.

A new engine usually does not fail prematurely if the parts are machined correctly and the specified torque specs are adhered to during assembly.

Just so you know and no one has said it... AMSOIL 10w-40 synthetic motorcycle oil Pour Point is minus 51 degrees normally most of us do not ride at that low of a temperature.. As to the oil filters no one except AMSOIL is putting filter flow specifications on the street for public consumption. This is a good link to visit when considering oil for a fine piece of machinery. This link will give you all the specifications for the 10w-40 motorcycle oil http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcf.aspx follow this page all the way to the end of the page for all the specs.

AMSOIL at this juncture in time is not making a Spyder oil filter but I am discussing it with them. Just make sure you get an oil filter that is made with filter media from the USA or Finland and meets all the ISO, QS, etc ratings and you will have a good filter. Remember you are going to change the filter every 3000 miles even if you don't do a complete oil change. Just be sure and top it back up. Many riders that do their own maintenance and use the best synthetics change every 5 or even 6 thousand miles. If you pull a sample of the best synthetics and send it to a lab for analysis you will find the best synthetic oil molecular structure is still correct for further use as a lubricant.

The reason for American or Finnish made filter media is because we and the Finns make the best filter media available.

I trust all of us are helping to ease your thoughts about which oils to use. I know I personally went through this very same worry process back in 1980 with a couple of diesel engines that were have some oil consumption problems. I found some oils work in some engines but not all engines. Each engine system is a little different internally although they all look the same externally.

Ride safe./Ken

 

[SpyderWolf]

Thanks for the good information posted in this thread. I am getting ready to start changing our own oil as well, and this has been very helpful.

 

[BajaRon]

Bajaron well were on the subject of oil changes , any idea on the micron rating of the BRP filter versus the ones you deal in?

I do not have specs for either product. I do know that HiFlo makes K&N filters and a lot of OEM filters for motorcycles and cars. It is possible that HiFlo makes the OEM Rotax filters.

The HiFlo box says TVU - Type tested and Production monitored to meet or exceed all OE specifications. They use filter medium made in Finland, long acknowledged as making the finest in the world.

I think HiFlo makes filters at least as good as the OEM. I have used them in all of my motorcycles for many years with good results.

HiFlo is working on a spec chart listing on their web page. If specs for the BRP filter could be determined it would be interesting to see how they compare. It wouldn't surprise me if they were identical.

 

[Just Doo Me]

Ok Ron was just curious,I have 4 Hi Flo's I purchased from you .hyea:

 

[krb1945]

Highflo...

filters are what I use in my kits. Just so all will know the HF 559 is the correct one for the SE5 HCM filter change. The HF564 is for the main engine oil filter on both the SM and SE Spyders. /Ken

 

[BajaRon]

Ok Ron was just curious,I have 4 Hi Flo's I purchased from you .hyea:

I don't mind passing on what information/experience I have as that is what I come here to get, and give out when I can. But I'm trying to keep away from the marketing aspects as that violates the forum rules since I am not a sponsor.

Instead, I provide moral support, spare parts and an occasional UPS delivery to the Administrator.... hyea: