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Suppliers for cheaper OEM Air compressor for 2014 RT?

:agree: ..... from the many posts on this forum from folks who switched to the " Viair " pump, they were quite pleased with it and didn't return to say " it was actually a mistake to use it " or a similar statement to that effect ..... You also have option " B " .... change your system to a manual one ... get rid of the pump entirely .... cost " zero ". I have a basic RT and the problems with the Auto pump was one of the reasons I chose it. I check the psi about once a month and add a little pressure .... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

is the Viair 95C the compressor that others have used for 2014"s and up? Thanks for your reply.
 
rtlister, would you be interested in converting the system to all Manual operations? Eliminates all of the issues. Many of us have done that and would never go back.

I am considering that. But do you not have an issue with the psi dropping (during a ride... not just over a period of weeks)? Thanks for your reply
 
The Viair I used after modification has been in place for 2 plus years and is running fine. It's also not the one most on site have used. That model was blamed for blowing fuse.

Thanks so much for your reply.
Three questions: 1) what year/model Spyder did you put the Viair compressor on? 2) Which model Viair did you use? 3) how loud is your compressor when it engages? Thanks again
 
The mechanic used to work full time for a dealership but is no longer with them... but works with me personally on my Spyder. He knows the Spyder inside and out.
Thanks for your reply.

OK , there was no offence intended in my comment, and I'm glad you didn't take any ...... My experience with Dealers and their employee's ( Tech's ) has not been good. .. If you had read my Thread about my 08 GS and warranty work done at a DEALER ( concerning the DPS unit ) you would know what I meant ..... . my bad luck ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
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I am considering that. But do you not have an issue with the psi dropping (during a ride... not just over a period of weeks)? Thanks for your reply

It’s not an issue. When you go all manual, like Mikey and I are referring to, you disable the system electrically, and just run the tubing directly from the airbag to the Schrader valve under the seat. So, unless the airbag itself has a leak, something that would need addressed regardless, then you barely lose any air at all. Most times, the leakage is from other fittings or the compressor check valve. You bypass all of that. Right now, mine has been sitting since November and still has plenty of air. I usually just top it off once a month during the season.
 
It’s not an issue. When you go all manual, like Mikey and I are referring to, you disable the system electrically, and just run the tubing directly from the airbag to the Schrader valve under the seat. So, unless the airbag itself has a leak, something that would need addressed regardless, then you barely lose any air at all. Most times, the leakage is from other fittings or the compressor check valve. You bypass all of that. Right now, mine has been sitting since November and still has plenty of air. I usually just top it off once a month during the season.

Did the same thing. Manual fill and pressure stays for weeks at a time. Just air it up a few pounds when my wife and gear and in the saddle bags. Dump valve and swivel connector are the leaks and both are replaced by a single line ( No leaks )

Lew L
 
I also have a 2014 RT with a bad compressor. I bypassed the systems and installed the Elka rear shock. I would recommend this fix. The ride is great with one or two riders and no worries about the air ride system.
 

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I would just gut the compressor and go manual fill, has worked for me with no problems!! That system is fine when it's working the way it should, but when it decides to poop out on you will be dead to the frame for the most part, because the shock they have in there is pretty much useless also! If you hook the bag direct to your Schrader and start at around 50lbs of air and adjust from there up or down, you will have a good ride, and it will not cost you more than a couple hours of wrench time if that!! I can only think of one time I EVER adjusted my system while it worked, so when my compressor pooped out in the middle of a 300-mile day and I got home pounding on the frame, it was a no brainer which direction I would go!!! Good luck if you need some subport PM me!!

I converted to using the shrader valve fill process on our 2014 RTL after my 2nd system failure in 2 years, a long time ago, and have never looked back.:yes: As I recall, just unplugging the powr to the compressor was all that was required to take the pump out of the system. :clap:
We always ride 2 up and I check for 70 PSI in the system whenever my other half " thinks" she feels a bottoming out on a ride or I can push the rear cargo box down by hand and notice it moving. Actually not that often, maybe once or twice a season, depending on roads mainly.
Just my (our) experience. :dontknow: :ohyea:
 
Wasn't there a thread on here about one member who took his compressor apart and found the problem and fixed it? It seemed like it was something simple. I may be having an Huluciation as I can't find it,does anybody else remember such a discussion? Seems like the rod had become disconnected from the piston.
 
I have a 2014 RT. The original air compressor was replaced under warranty 3 yrs ago... now the new one (from 3 yrs ago) is making lots of noise and runs often. I know how to replace it...I tried an after market one from Viair... but that didn't work out at all. The lowest price I have found on an air compressor from CanAm is $390 + tax and shipping. Does anyone know where I can get the right compressor for less than that? (The Viair was under $100 bucks). Thanks

:read: This one has saved me a lot of trouble a few times. One of the Best out there for the money!$! Check it out. :yes:

https://www.harley-davidson.com/us/e...ght/p/12700020
 
The compressor design changed around 2013. Another note is that alot of these compressors fail is the one way valve gets dirty and does not seal correctly, causing the compressor to just wear out. That was my issue. Also if you just remove power from the compressor, you still will lose air from the bleed off actuator. Bruce
 
The compressor design changed around 2013. Another note is that alot of these compressors fail is the one way valve gets dirty and does not seal correctly, causing the compressor to just wear out. That was my issue. Also if you just remove power from the compressor, you still will lose air from the bleed off actuator. Bruce

Hmmmm....not sure why mine works fine after just removing the power to the compressor and then filling thru shrader valve as needed.:dontknow:
 
Hmmmm....not sure why mine works fine after just removing the power to the compressor and then filling thru shrader valve as needed.:dontknow:

It's probably cos it was only your compressor itself that was doing the wrong thing. ;)

The ACS is a fairly involved system - there's a bunch of press fit air line fittings, the compressor, the air bag itself, the fill/release valve, the schraeder valve, & an elbow fitting involved in the ACS; and besides a blown air hose, it could be any one or more of those that's leaking! :shocked:

So whether your system will need the air line run direct or not depends a whole lot upon which bit is actually doing the leaking.... some are lucky & can get away with leaving the whole system standard, just remove power to the compressor, & still find it holds air; others (or possibly most?) aren't so lucky & find they need to bypass the fill/release valve &/or the compressor or it'll still leak down; and a few find their leak is either in the air line fitting on the top of bag, or it's a pinhole leak in the bottom of the bag! What it actually is can be just the luck of the draw! :gaah:

The ACS is a Great concept, just not so great in the execution! :rolleyes:
 
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