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Need advice on a Coolant & brake flush, its cost, & mileage interval?

I do my own work, but $250 seems reasonable $850 is just plain ridiculous. I do brake fluid changes at two year intervals. Coolant I have went as long as five with no problems. You will get several recommendations none of which are really wrong. Brake fluid draws moisture (turns dark) which can cause issues pretty quickly so I keep up with it.
 
I do my own work, but $250 seems reasonable $850 is just plain ridiculous. I do brake fluid changes at two year intervals. Coolant I have went as long as five with no problems. You will get several recommendations none of which are really wrong. Brake fluid draws moisture (turns dark) which can cause issues pretty quickly so I keep up with it.

I am 7 years on the orig. OEM Anti-freeze .... this winter I was late in getting the Spyder into my basement for winter storage :banghead:.... It was still waiting while the temp. had dropped to 4 - F .... But I started it, and brought it inside ...... Maybe I got lucky ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
:agree: Brake fluid 2 yr minimum, DIY is fine if your comfortable with your skills. Caution on earlier models :lecturef_smilie:radiator drain plugs have been known to snap, better to remove lower hose. Replace the hose clamp with a worm gear clamp. (Unsure intervals Varys greatly )The estimates sound like one maybe added brake pads replaced & fluid. (Maybe) Something to consider; good time go ahead & get done before riding season. Believe the brake fluid sequence is: LR-Rear.(some one correct me if am wrong plz) Buds required to clear minimal amount in ABS unit *MINIMAL amount*
https://youtu.be/Csji-2tfwAQ
&Dot 4 brake fluid only.
Found catalog from “14 keep for part# & recommends replacing coolant same time frame as brake fluid 2yr course checking more frequently chart list image.jpg
 
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Need some advice,one dealer-$250, another-$850+

Ask each Dealer the same questions, 'what is included with your quote'. I would make them give you the quote in writing.

The $250 seems right, but you never know.
The $850 is way to high, unless the Dealer is doing much more serious service work.

Good Luck with Your Mission. .....:thumbup:
 
I am 7 years on the orig. OEM Anti-freeze .... this winter I was late in getting the Spyder into my basement for winter storage :banghead:.... It was still waiting while the temp. had dropped to 4 - F .... But I started it, and brought it inside ...... Maybe I got lucky ..... Mike :thumbup:

hehehe, when you said "getting the Spyder into my basement" I had this very clear vision of how Gibbs would be getting his boat out of the basement. Those who are fans of NCIS will understand.

back to your regularly scheduled thread.
 
The maintenance schedule for 2014 and later Spyders (I pay no attention to earlier MYs) is two years for brake fluid flush and five years or 28,000 miles, whichever comes first, for coolant replacement. One needs B.U.D.S. to trigger the ABS module for complete brake fluid system flush although some DIYers skip it because it's a small amount of fluid in the module.
 
The maintenance schedule for 2014 and later Spyders (I pay no attention to earlier MYs) is two years for brake fluid flush and five years or 28,000 miles, whichever comes first, for coolant replacement. One needs B.U.D.S. to trigger the ABS module for complete brake fluid system flush although some DIYers skip it because it's a small amount of fluid in the module.

I agree with you that a lot of people think it's ok to skip replacing the brake fluid in the ABS module since BUDS is required. But think about it. It's the ABS system that just might save your life if it lets you continue steering by not locking up the brakes. If you leave the cruddy, water absorbed fluid in there and it corrodes, it just might not work correctly when needed. And also, that's a pretty expensive part to replace.
 
Ask each Dealer the same questions, 'what is included with your quote'. I would make them give you the quote in writing.

The $250 seems right, but you never know.
The $850 is way to high, unless the Dealer is doing much more serious service work.

Good Luck with Your Mission. .....:thumbup:

OK, " in my basement " is relative .... When I designed my house, I put in a Ramp from ground level " outside " to ground level inside ... it's slightly over 16 feet and drops approx. 5 ft from outside to inside ..... I have a reg. rectangular structure over this area .... I realized I was wasting a lot of space because I didn't leave anything " on the ramp ". So I got some 2x6's, 12 ft long ( for joists ) which is now a platform FRAME, and covered it with 3 sheets of 1/2in. plywood. ... the end piece is also a 2x6 @ 8ft which ties in all the joists. ...I can raise and lower this via a cable..... Mike :thumbup:
 
OK, " in my basement " is relative .... When I designed my house, I put in a Ramp from ground level " outside " to ground level inside ... it's slightly over 16 feet and drops approx. 5 ft from outside to inside ..... I have a reg. rectangular structure over this area .... I realized I was wasting a lot of space because I didn't leave anything " on the ramp ". So I got some 2x6's, 12 ft long ( for joists ) which is now a platform FRAME, and covered it with 3 sheets of 1/2in. plywood. ... the end piece is also a 2x6 @ 8ft which ties in all the joists. ...I can raise and lower this via a cable..... Mike :thumbup:

Does your house have a moat, and a portcullis? This seems like a pretty impressive piece of engineering. I presume with the structure winched up there is adequate protection against zombies?
 
OK, " in my basement " is relative .... When I designed my house, I put in a Ramp from ground level " outside " to ground level inside ... it's slightly over 16 feet and drops approx. 5 ft from outside to inside ..... I have a reg. rectangular structure over this area .... I realized I was wasting a lot of space because I didn't leave anything " on the ramp ". So I got some 2x6's, 12 ft long ( for joists ) which is now a platform FRAME, and covered it with 3 sheets of 1/2in. plywood. ... the end piece is also a 2x6 @ 8ft which ties in all the joists. ...I can raise and lower this via a cable..... Mike :thumbup:

Mike, I'm trying to visualize this drive in basement of yours. Someday you will have to share a few pictures of your ingenuity on building this. :thumbup:
 
I agree with you that a lot of people think it's ok to skip replacing the brake fluid in the ABS module since BUDS is required. But think about it. It's the ABS system that just might save your life if it lets you continue steering by not locking up the brakes. If you leave the cruddy, water absorbed fluid in there and it corrodes, it just might not work correctly when needed. And also, that's a pretty expensive part to replace.

I agree 100%, and since I don't have B.U.D.S. I take it to the dealer. It's a small price to pay to protect the old bones and gray matter.
 
I agree with you that a lot of people think it's ok to skip replacing the brake fluid in the ABS module since BUDS is required. But think about it. It's the ABS system that just might save your life if it lets you continue steering by not locking up the brakes. If you leave the cruddy, water absorbed fluid in there and it corrodes, it just might not work correctly when needed. And also, that's a pretty expensive part to replace.

Point taken, but, what if after changing out the fluid you repeatedly stopped quickly activating the antilock brakes. Would the volume of fluid moved be enuff to mix it with the new fluid?
 
Brake Fluid Change

Point taken, but, what if after changing out the fluid you repeatedly stopped quickly activating the antilock brakes. Would the volume of fluid moved be enuff to mix it with the new fluid?

My first thought is that if someone does the brake fluid change and the valve has an issue. Do you know about this issue or not?

So many unknown variables and a big Safety Issue.
My Tip: Use the proper tools (Buds) to do the brake fluid change.
I have my Spyder Dealer do my Brake Fluid Change. It's really a Safety Thing. ......:thumbup:


UPDATE: See Post #21
 
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Point taken, but, what if after changing out the fluid you repeatedly stopped quickly activating the antilock brakes. Would the volume of fluid moved be enuff to mix it with the new fluid?

When the ABS unit is activated, it really only uses pressure pulses on the calipers. There really isn't much volume moved, and the fluid that leaves the ABS unit also returns to it. There is no path back to the reservoirs to think that there is much intermixing. When BUDS is used, the computer tells you when to open the bleeder on the ABS unit, and it then causes the unit to run long enough to flush it out.
 
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