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Monster reflash

Papa103

Member
Will these reflashed ECM's last for the life of the Spyder. I don't mind spending my money on something that works, but if it only works for a season, that is wasting money in my opinion. The reason I ask this is I have puschased the sequential turn signals for the front fenders and they lasted less than 2 months. They replaced them under warranty after waiting for manufacturing to catch up with demand (about 5 weeks). I also purchased a flashing brake module from the same vendor and just like the fender lights that has now had a glitch that only 1 brake light flashes the other one doesn't do anything. I'm waiting on a email from them for a fix for that. I have also purchased highway pegs for my spyder was missing parts and had a fitment issue, I emailed them and got NO response. Again from a sponsor on this site that was highly recommended. SO, how long has everyone that has installed a Monster Reflash had it for? Miles and years would be helpful. Thanks.
 
The reflash file is written into the "permanent" memory of the ecu. It will last until it is overwritten by another file, either the original, or another reflash. As in going from Stage 1 to Stage 2.
 
I don't have a 'Monster re-flash' cos I'm here in Oz & not over in your part of the World, so maybe mine's juuust a little different; but the ECU Upgrade Jase at Ecu Xtreme/Rotax Racing did on my 2013 RT was done more than just a few years back now and more miles ago than most get to do on their Spyders in their entire lifetimes of Spyder ownership! :yes:


As Jetfixer mentioned, it's permanent, and once applied effectively becomes an integral part of the most basic level of ECU programming - now that it's in there, the only way the Upgrade could be fully removed by anyone but it's author is if the ECU was replaced! In fact, most BRP/CanAm techs who've worked on my RT never even recognise that it's there, except that they do very quickly recognise that my Spyder performs a helluva lot better (in terms of both smooth power delivery to the rear wheel and in cruising fuel economy!! :ohyea: ) than every other Spyder they've ever worked on &/or ridden; and so far, only one has even noticed that I've got a bunch more revs available than the stock ECU allows - even if I don't use them all the time!! :rolleyes:

Go On, DO IT! :thumbup: You KNOW you want to, and I really doubt that you'll ever regret it! :riding:

Ryde More, & Worry Less!
 
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I called Wicket Performance today and they told me I need to keep the RPM's up to 4200ish after the flash stage 1 or 2. I'm thinking that won't work for me. I do too many long distance trips. 4200 RPM's is between 70 and 80 MPH. The only thing I would accomplish is I would have the Spyder with the WORST gas mileage of anyone.
 
I called Wicket Performance today and they told me I need to keep the RPM's up to 4200ish after the flash stage 1 or 2. I'm thinking that won't work for me. I do too many long distance trips. 4200 RPM's is between 70 and 80 MPH. The only thing I would accomplish is I would have the Spyder with the WORST gas mileage of anyone.

Just because it has 6 gears does not mean that you have to use them all. Personally I just couldn't keep mine at 4200 in 5th gear either. I agree gas mileage would go to crap.

I'm satisfied with mine like it is.
 
I called Wicket Performance today and they told me I need to keep the RPM's up to 4200ish after the flash stage 1 or 2. I'm thinking that won't work for me. I do too many long distance trips. 4200 RPM's is between 70 and 80 MPH. The only thing I would accomplish is I would have the Spyder with the WORST gas mileage of anyone.

I had my 2015 RTL flashed to Stage 1 by Wick-It. After trading that one in on a 2020 RTL, I bought the flash loader and Stage 1 file and did it myself. I can assure you that keeping 4200 rpm's is not necessary. The Stage 1 mod will not remove the built-in shifting protections that prevent you from lugging the engine, or over-revving it. I put over 35000 miles on my 2015 and now have over 15000 miles on my 2020. I normally shift at 3000 rpm unless climbing a steep hill in which case I'll go to about 3500. This method applies even riding two up and/or pulling my RT-622 trailer. I keep records using the A-Car app and since the 2020 was new, I've averaged 37 mpg. Shifting at 4200 is just not necessary unless you're trying to impress people at the red light!! BTW, if you do the reflash, use Premium fuel only.
 
I called Wicket Performance today and they told me I need to keep the RPM's up to 4200ish after the flash stage 1 or 2. I'm thinking that won't work for me. I do too many long distance trips. 4200 RPM's is between 70 and 80 MPH. The only thing I would accomplish is I would have the Spyder with the WORST gas mileage of anyone.

You must have heard this information incorrectly or they are WRONG. I was part of the original ECU flash testing with Monster Fuel with 3 different Spyders and NEVER was it discussed at the test facility that there was a throttle rpm requirement. I have 35,000 miles on a stage 2 flash and I rarely need to go above 5,000 rpm to have fun. In fact I now spend most my time shifting at 3,500 rpm as I tool around. Contact Steve directly at Monster Fuel to clear this misinformation up.
You will be amazed at what a hot rod your ride will become. Instant throttle response is addictive and 25% hp increase right from idle through red line will put a grin on your face. Wickit is just a vendor for Monster Fuel and they could be talking about some BRP racing off road 4 wheeler?
Dennis
Dennis
 
Jetfixer , can you tell us where you bought both , I’ve been on several of Monster’s distributors websites (Wick-it etc. ) and only see an option to send the ecu in to them , not purchase the flash loader and the individual flash file . Thanks!
I had my 2015 RTL flashed to Stage 1 by Wick-It. After trading that one in on a 2020 RTL, I bought the flash loader and Stage 1 file and did it myself. I can assure you that keeping 4200 rpm's is not necessary. The Stage 1 mod will not remove the built-in shifting protections that prevent you from lugging the engine, or over-revving it. I put over 35000 miles on my 2015 and now have over 15000 miles on my 2020. I normally shift at 3000 rpm unless climbing a steep hill in which case I'll go to about 3500. This method applies even riding two up and/or pulling my RT-622 trailer. I keep records using the A-Car app and since the 2020 was new, I've averaged 37 mpg. Shifting at 4200 is just not necessary unless you're trying to impress people at the red light!! BTW, if you do the reflash, use Premium fuel only.
 
I called Wicket Performance today and they told me I need to keep the RPM's up to 4200ish after the flash stage 1 or 2. I'm thinking that won't work for me. I do too many long distance trips. 4200 RPM's is between 70 and 80 MPH. The only thing I would accomplish is I would have the Spyder with the WORST gas mileage of anyone.

I spoke to Wicket last week and was also told to keep the RPMs up around 4200 hundred for stage 1 or 2. The reason was that after the flash the 1330 doesn't like to be lugged. I cruse normally at 3000 (60 mph) and get 40+ MPG. 60 is my comfortable sweet spot, safety-wise. After hearing that I must run at higher RPMs, I'm rethinking having my ECU flashed. The 1330 was designed to be a lower RPM high torque machine. High RPMs are an MPG killer. My reason for a flash was for greater passing ability on mountain highways while riding 2up and towing a trailer. Incidentally, the person I spoke with at Wicket told me he was the owner and his name was not Jason. Maybe something has changed at Wicket.
 
Jetfixer , can you tell us where you bought both , I’ve been on several of Monster’s distributors websites (Wick-it etc. ) and only see an option to send the ecu in to them , not purchase the flash loader and the individual flash file . Thanks!

Ever thought of picking up the phone, cell or otherwise, and calling them?????????????????
 
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