Fog lights install with frunk off

[Wmoater]

On a 2017 RTL I have to remove half the plastic for a good oil change and to clean out my radiator. (Full of bugs from out west trip) I might as well remove all the plastic and the frunk. The frunk will be sitting ontop of a seat dolly so I can slide it in and out easily. I’ve removed the frunk twice before. Since I have everything off, I’m going to install a set of rivco LED spot lights and install a set of LED fogs. Once I install the fog lights, to test them (before I reassemble everything) I need to slide the frunk back together plug in the main lights, and connect dess plug. I figured leave the air intake and frunk switch disconnected just to test and make sure nothing went wrong. If the air intake is not clicked together and the frunk micro switch not attached if I start the spyder will it turn on or give me all kinds of codes? I know when I did my swaybar and turned on elevated I had to drive for 10 minutes and all the codes cleared. The machine needs to be running to check the LEDS. After I see both working, finish installing air intake, all the bolts and frunk switch. Next replace led headlights, fill the oil and install all the plastic. It’s ok to test the LED fog lights with the frunk not connected or am I going to have a mess with all the code errors and it not start?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

On a 2017 RTL I have to remove half the plastic for a good oil change and to clean out my radiator. (Full of bugs from out west trip) I might as well remove all the plastic and the frunk. The frunk will be sitting ontop of a seat dolly so I can slide it in and out easily. I’ve removed the frunk twice before. Since I have everything off, I’m going to install a set of rivco LED spot lights and install a set of LED fogs. Once I install the fog lights, to test them (before I reassemble everything) I need to slide the frunk back together plug in the main lights, and connect dess plug. I figured leave the air intake and frunk switch disconnected just to test and make sure nothing went wrong. If the air intake is not clicked together and the frunk micro switch not attached if I start the spyder will it turn on or give me all kinds of codes? I know when I did my swaybar and turned on elevated I had to drive for 10 minutes and all the codes cleared. The machine needs to be running to check the LEDS. After I see both working, finish installing air intake, all the bolts and frunk switch. Next replace led headlights, fill the oil and install all the plastic. It’s ok to test the LED fog lights with the frunk not connected or am I going to have a mess with all the code errors and it not start?

For the AIR temp thing ( nothing occurs for the plastic air intake - I no longer even have mine on the RT )it will flash a warning on the dash ( similar to the rear trunk warning ) BUT it will correct it-self just by plugging it back together ...this has been my experience over many dozens of times .... ... " connect the DESS PLUG " ????? .... Why would you do this. .... The only time I dis-connected that was to remove the DESS module ..... I don't think any codes will appear because of your testing ..... jmho .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[JayBros]

If the LED fog lights are correctly marked for polarity so you can't incorrectly connect them, your biggest risk is that when you install them you will have the polarity reversed and one or both won't work. The safest thing to do is slide the frunk up as close as possible and reconnect ALL the plugs you disconnected before you test start the engine. Not hooking up the the air intake won't affect the air intake system code-wise. If you don't reconnect all the plugs you may get code(s) referring to the ambient air temp sensor but once you reconnect everything those codes will go away. Don't ask me how I know, but it gave my dealership tech a laugh and he said lots of folks do it. I do not know if running the engine without hooking up the air intake connection will trigger the ECM to attempt to normalize itself but you shouldn't have the engine running long enough just to check the fog lights. In any event, when you finally get everything all buttoned up you can start the engine, and let it idle for about 10 min and the ECM will, if necessary, take care of everything. Just do not blip the throttle at all; simply let it idle.

 

[Wmoater]

Sorry meant “buds”. Just got done firing all the sleds up after we got home to blow extra sea foam through and they use dess. I didn’t think it would hurt anything. I got it all apart tonight and headlights done and oil is draining. Should be all drained out completely by morning. I’ll clean the grills first, then fogs so once it’s close together and tested just slide boot over and put together. Thanks for input.

 

[Wmoater]

After installing fogs with frunk off and fog lights plugged in only, nothing else attached, check engine lights came on as soon as engine started. Small ontop and blinking large on bottom. Fogs worked perfectly so I turned off spyder, Assembled trunk, air intake etc and bolted everything in. Started up and still check engine. Drove it about 7 miles pulled back in garage and turned off. Waited for 2 minutes, fired back up and no more check engine light. It clears itself just like when rear wheel was off ground and spun and front elevated while installing swaybar. Didn’t think there’d be a problem but just wanted to ask since it’s so computer driven.

As a side note jaybros stated polarity. On mine the black wire was negative on all 4 BRP plugs in case someone does a search in the future. The white/yellow or the white/green is all positive on the BRP plugs. I installed the tricled 360 LED + to white and - to black.