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Nanny and Kanines

I noticed yesterday that when I took a corner a bit faster than typical, (was completely in control), I saw the front wheels bounce and slide. When that happened, the nanny kicked in a lot.

But I was totally in control. So would the tires sliding and bouncing cause the nanny to kick in?

If so, would car tires keep the sliding and bouncing from occuring?
 
Loss of traction will certainly cause the Nanny to kick in. There are quite a few parameters that the computer senses many times per second. Once any combination of data exceed the pre-programed limit. The Nanny kicks in. The early models (2008-2012) have a strong, abrupt and harsh Nanny. BRP has refined the Nanny over the years. She now comes in sooner than the earlier models. But she starts out more subtly and gently. Getting progressively more aggressive as conditions require.

Riding smooth, no jerky steering inputs, and suspension upgrades, will not only give you more control and get you through curves faster and safer. But these will also go a long way towards keeping the Nanny off your back. Because, basically, the Nanny is designed to return control of the machine to you (regardless of whether or not you think you need it). When you increase control, the Nanny also senses this and she sees no need to intervene.
 
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Loss of traction will certainly cause the Nanny to kick in. There are quite a few parameters that the computer senses many times per second. Once any combination of data exceed the pre-programed limit. The Nanny kicks in. The early models (2008-2012) have a strong, abrupt and harsh Nanny. BRP has refined the Nanny over the years. She now comes in sooner than the earlier models. But she starts out more subtly and gently. Getting progressively more aggressive as conditions require.

Riding smooth, no jerky steering inputs, and suspension upgrades, will not only give you more control and get you through curves faster and safer. But these will also go a long way towards keeping the Nanny off your back. Because, basically, the Nanny is designed to return control of the machine to you (regardless of whether or not you think you need it). When you increase control, the Nanny also senses this and she sees no need to intervene.

Agree with BajaRon. Only system keeping the tires firmly planted on the road is the suspension system. You have apparently met and exceeded the limits of the suspension. You may have noticed that the front suspension was fully compressed when you were doing this maneuver. Tires should never come off the road regardless of type.

My thoughts are that you need to slow down and ride within the design limits of what you have, or start an upgrade program to suit your riding profile. Both are good. My order of preference now having new M2 shocks installed, new tires and the BajaRon sway bar is shocks, sway bar, tires. Sway bar and tires can be in any order. The OEM Kenda tires are a good low cost tire designed for a specific purpose and timeframe. There are better tire options out there, but with an increase in quality, longevity and performance comes an increase in price.

No quick or inexpensive fix regarding your issue. JMHO - Good luck.
 
Loss of traction will certainly cause the Nanny to kick in. There are quite a few parameters that the computer senses many times per second. Once any combination of data exceed the pre-programed limit. The Nanny kicks in. The early models (2008-2012) have a strong, abrupt and harsh Nanny. BRP has refined the Nanny over the years. She now comes in sooner than the earlier models. But she starts out more subtly and gently. Getting progressively more aggressive as conditions require.

Riding smooth, no jerky steering inputs, and suspension upgrades, will not only give you more control and get you through curves faster and safer. But these will also go a long way towards keeping the Nanny off your back. Because, basically, the Nanny is designed to return control of the machine to you (regardless of whether or not you think you need it). When you increase control, the Nanny also senses this and she sees no need to intervene.

:agree: .... however no matter how smooth you are, there are limits to how fast you can take any Spyder...... and this is a good thing .....JMHO .... Mike :2thumbs:
 
I noticed yesterday that when I took a corner a bit faster than typical, (was completely in control), I saw the front wheels bounce and slide. When that happened, the nanny kicked in a lot.

But I was totally in control. So would the tires sliding and bouncing cause the nanny to kick in?

If so, would car tires keep the sliding and bouncing from occuring?

It was quite possibly the road surface that highlighted the issue.

A concrete surface does not provide as much grip as hotmix, which is the universal surface type in most of Arizona. You can get some concrete at certain intersections, especially if there is a bus stop with its own lane just past the corner/intersection.

You could also lose traction on the white painted lines at intersections, and when one wheel passes over a manhole cover.

When the hotmix surface erodes (the tar bubbles and evaporates out in hot climates like Arizona) this sometimes leaves coarser, smoother stone exposed, which does not grip the tyres as well.

Any time the road surface changes you can expect a change in traction. Tyre pressures then play a big part in determining what happens with the stability control. The recommended front tyre pressures are perhaps a little low - I have just changed the front tyres to 18 psi cold, up from 15-17, and found that our 2015 F3S suddenly steers as easily as my wife's 2019 F3L with the updated steering system. It now grips better than ever in corners and is more progressive in response when the stability system kicks in.

The year and model of your SPYDER also plays a significant part in when the stability system kicks in.
 
I too find a little higher PSI (than the accepted norm) in the front helps with grip and cornering in general. I run at 20 PSI with the standard kendas on my F3-S and corner quite hard on our twisty roads.
 
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