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There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Has anyone ELSE tried changing the rear signals to LEDs?
- Thread starter Steve W.
- Start date
BertRemington
New member
For my 2014 RT-S I replaced incandescent turn signal 7507 with SBL LED https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...del=3298&scc_id=1952&year=2014#/attributes/16 and incandescent backup 1156 with SBL LED https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...del=3298&scc_id=1945&year=2014#/attributes/16
No fast flash or dashboard warnings.
But 230 lumens for turn signal weren't enough so wired backup as turn signal for total of 540 lumens. Tested with no fast flash or dashboard warnings. The LED backup light will be below the license plate.
No fast flash or dashboard warnings.
But 230 lumens for turn signal weren't enough so wired backup as turn signal for total of 540 lumens. Tested with no fast flash or dashboard warnings. The LED backup light will be below the license plate.
Are you saying that you added a yellow 'bulb' to the backup light and now have TWO turn signal bulbs on each side?
Sounds like it might work for some, but I don't have room for any more lights on the back to relocate the reverse light.
Also not sure that I would want to downgrade to 230 (or 540) lumens. The ones I have now are 2800.
I got an idea from another post recently. I have been going through the procedure on Lamonster's site that has you turn the key ON, then hold the 4-way button, etc. That almost seems to work, but someone suggested doing while the engine was running, not just with the key ON. When I have a day that's warm enough to get the Spyder outside, I will try that.
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Sounds like it might work for some, but I don't have room for any more lights on the back to relocate the reverse light.
Also not sure that I would want to downgrade to 230 (or 540) lumens. The ones I have now are 2800.
I got an idea from another post recently. I have been going through the procedure on Lamonster's site that has you turn the key ON, then hold the 4-way button, etc. That almost seems to work, but someone suggested doing while the engine was running, not just with the key ON. When I have a day that's warm enough to get the Spyder outside, I will try that.
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BertRemington
New member
Steve -- that is correct, I have two LED "turn signal" bulbs. I made a jumper between the 5-pin chassis connector and the 5-pin light module connector. Turn signal power from the chassis feeds both the 7507 turn signal bulb and the 1156 backup bulb in the light module. The LH jumper also feeds the backup light down by the license plate. I'll post pictures after I install the backup light. When I decide on a CHMSL I'll redo the RH jumper to feed tail and brake power to it. Takes me about an hour to build a jumper -- I'm old and slow.
I consolidated all the information I could find on correcting flash rate but haven't needed it yet.
Recalibrate Turn Signal Flash Rate
1. Turn the engine ON.
2. Press and hold the Hazard button until the Dashboard lights flash once (20-30 seconds).
3. Release the Hazard button.
4. Turn on LH turn signal.
5. Let it blink once and turn the engine OFF.
6. Turn the engine ON.
7. Press and hold the Hazard button until the Dashboard lights flash once (20-30 seconds).
8. Release the Hazard button.
9. Turn on RH turn signal.
10. Let it blink once and turn the engine OFF.
Repeat 1-10 completely if either LH or RH flash rate is incorrect.
You have 2800 lumen rear turn signals? Woohoo that's like a headlight!
PS probably my favorite motorcycle was a 1978 GS750. Switched to a GS1100 when I moved to Descanso (dirt road). Switched to a BMW K100 to slow down. Switched to Ford Tauri when the CHP decided I didn't slow down enough.
I consolidated all the information I could find on correcting flash rate but haven't needed it yet.
Recalibrate Turn Signal Flash Rate
1. Turn the engine ON.
2. Press and hold the Hazard button until the Dashboard lights flash once (20-30 seconds).
3. Release the Hazard button.
4. Turn on LH turn signal.
5. Let it blink once and turn the engine OFF.
6. Turn the engine ON.
7. Press and hold the Hazard button until the Dashboard lights flash once (20-30 seconds).
8. Release the Hazard button.
9. Turn on RH turn signal.
10. Let it blink once and turn the engine OFF.
Repeat 1-10 completely if either LH or RH flash rate is incorrect.
You have 2800 lumen rear turn signals? Woohoo that's like a headlight!
PS probably my favorite motorcycle was a 1978 GS750. Switched to a GS1100 when I moved to Descanso (dirt road). Switched to a BMW K100 to slow down. Switched to Ford Tauri when the CHP decided I didn't slow down enough.
That is pretty much the same procedure that Lamonster has, except that #1 just says to turn the KEY on. I am going to try it soon with the ENGINE running to see if it makes a difference.
Yes, 2800 Lumens. :2thumbs: When I opened the little box and applied some power to test them, I was NOT ready. I expected some brightness, but these take it to another level. I was then a bit concerned that they might be TOO bright, but I had my wife head down the driveway and turn on the signals. I think they look just fine. :thumbup:
The part that bothers me about them is that they are supposed to be "CAN BUS error-free", meaning that they will approximate the load of the stock bulb so CAN BUS will not be bothered. As I understand, our signals are not on the CAN BUS, but the load should still be about the same.
If the reprogramming with the engine running does not work, I have one last thing to try before accepting the hyperflash. I don't know why it would make any difference, but the load resistors are mounted up front, inside the fairing near the mirrors. Maybe they need to be mounted at the rear, near the LEDs? :dontknow:
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Yes, 2800 Lumens. :2thumbs: When I opened the little box and applied some power to test them, I was NOT ready. I expected some brightness, but these take it to another level. I was then a bit concerned that they might be TOO bright, but I had my wife head down the driveway and turn on the signals. I think they look just fine. :thumbup:
The part that bothers me about them is that they are supposed to be "CAN BUS error-free", meaning that they will approximate the load of the stock bulb so CAN BUS will not be bothered. As I understand, our signals are not on the CAN BUS, but the load should still be about the same.
If the reprogramming with the engine running does not work, I have one last thing to try before accepting the hyperflash. I don't know why it would make any difference, but the load resistors are mounted up front, inside the fairing near the mirrors. Maybe they need to be mounted at the rear, near the LEDs? :dontknow:
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OK, the weather is just too :cus: cold, getting colder and it's gonna snow soon, so I got tired of waiting.
Did not take the Spyder outside, just ran it in the shop to try it again.
Basically did the "LaMonster method" with two details changed:
1. Instead of turning the key ON and doing the procedure, the engine was RUNNING.
2. Instead of blindly waiting 30 seconds, I watched the warning lights on the display. Once they did a real quick cycle through (don't blink, you'll miss it), I released the 4-way switch and turned off the 4-way flashers, then did the turn signal "let it blink once and turn the key OFF".
Works like a charm, and I did not have to do the other side, once was enough. :thumbup:
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Did not take the Spyder outside, just ran it in the shop to try it again.
Basically did the "LaMonster method" with two details changed:
1. Instead of turning the key ON and doing the procedure, the engine was RUNNING.
2. Instead of blindly waiting 30 seconds, I watched the warning lights on the display. Once they did a real quick cycle through (don't blink, you'll miss it), I released the 4-way switch and turned off the 4-way flashers, then did the turn signal "let it blink once and turn the key OFF".
Works like a charm, and I did not have to do the other side, once was enough. :thumbup:
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Snoking1127
Well-known member
Hope works, I ordered the LED blubs from Amazon noted in OP first post. They are suppose to be delivered tomorrow.
RayBJ
Well-known member
For the record, the physical location of the resistors is irrelevant. They just need to be 'electrically' the same point.
Source ---------------------------------Resistor--LED
is the same as
Source --Resistor--------------------------------LED
(Note: This is not a wiring diagram. Resistors connect across the Source & ground.)
Source ---------------------------------Resistor--LED
is the same as
Source --Resistor--------------------------------LED
(Note: This is not a wiring diagram. Resistors connect across the Source & ground.)
Snoking1127
Well-known member
Anyone figure out how to reset the hyper flash on a 2018 with the new dash?
I was a little concerned about resistor location only because the turn signals are powered somewhat individually by the instrument cluster. The fronts are LED, the rears are incandescent. I have the resistors in the fairing, behind the front signals, wasn't sure if front vs. rear location would make a difference.
For now, the resistors are still in place near the front signals and the lights are working well, I'm going to stop. :thumbup:
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Snoking1127
Well-known member
I decide to throw in the towel and am retuning mine to Amazon.
Snoking1127
Well-known member
Just found this regarding hyper flashing, changing flashers to "international mode" in BUDS is suppose to fix the issue on 2018+ Spyders. Anyone in East Valley of Phoenix have a BUDS system that could change that setting for me?
Well the nice guys at Nash in Mesa could not find a setting to change. Drats!
Snoking1127
Well-known member
Today I installed 8 ohm 50w resistors and lights flash correctly now. There is no metal in the area behind the tail light assembles, so I put the resistors on standoffs on the back side of the saddle bags rear wall so the air can flow around them on all sides.
BertRemington
New member
Normal flash when straight and fast flash when moving into turn
As I described above, I changed both the rear turn and backup bulbs to Amber LEDs and rewired the backup bulbs to be turn signals. I did not have fast flash.
Then for un-related reasons, I "reset" my electronics by disconnecting negative cable from the battery and temporarily touching it to the positive cable.
I got the fast flash. So performed the re-calibration procedure. The fast flash went away.
EXCEPT while actually in the middle of a turn.
That is, I will be in the turn lane or road with my handlebars straight-ahead with turn signal on with a normal flash rate. Then when I turn the handlebars while moving it switches to fast flash before automatically cancelling. This is repeated at the next turn -- normal flash when straight then fast flash moving into turn. I decided I like it. YMMV
As I described above, I changed both the rear turn and backup bulbs to Amber LEDs and rewired the backup bulbs to be turn signals. I did not have fast flash.
Then for un-related reasons, I "reset" my electronics by disconnecting negative cable from the battery and temporarily touching it to the positive cable.
I got the fast flash. So performed the re-calibration procedure. The fast flash went away.
EXCEPT while actually in the middle of a turn.
That is, I will be in the turn lane or road with my handlebars straight-ahead with turn signal on with a normal flash rate. Then when I turn the handlebars while moving it switches to fast flash before automatically cancelling. This is repeated at the next turn -- normal flash when straight then fast flash moving into turn. I decided I like it. YMMV
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