bikerbillone
Well-known member
Good luck Monk, sounds like my frustration with a project on my 2020 RTL. It wasn't a Frunk liner so no need to explain my project.
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Need 2020+ RT frunk liner part number
- Thread starter MONK
- Start date
I saw that, aswell. Even though those nuts say "NEW", I'm hoping they don't really need to be replaced. Even if they're plastic nuts, I'd think they could be reused. I'll have to put a wrench on those bolts this weekend to see if there's any way I can loosen them without them spinning.
That's a pretty good temporary solution. I'm just not prepared to remove the entire front of my bike and I'd rather not pay the shop a few hundred bucks to do this if I don't have to.
Since you've already dug into this, does it appear you "should" be able to only remove the (2) large side panels (tupperware) and those (2) spinning bolts in order to remove that top hoop to install the liner? Or did you find there were other bolts that would need to be removed?
I appreciate the help.
I was hasty in my response before. The two spinning bolts look like the only 2 bolts you need to remove to access the back part. But then there are still the sides and front you have to deal with. There are the 2 push pins for each side. Then there is the true hassle, the front where the lid connects. There are 4 push pins that are holding the top of bumper to the top of the frunk bucket. If you could remove the spinning bolts in back, the side push pins, and those front push pins you might be able to maneuver the top of the bucket off without removing the entire front, but I’m going to assume the front has more bolts or push I can’t see under the top of the bumper. I’ll see if I can post some pics
Thinking about it even if you could maneuver the top off, you would still need to get to the Velcro under the top of the bumper.
Thanks. Those are my (2) real concerns and why I'm thinking the entire front end needs to come off although you would think it would be easier to install what's really an insignificant part. In the previous generation, the installation/design definitely had its issues but you could install/remove the frunk liner in about 20 minutes. Of course, the way it was installed left it prone to possible leaks due to the liner being installed just under the weatherstrip.
If I can get those (2) spinning bolts to not spin, I might see if I can install 3/4 of it (all but the front) the right way then just tuck the front 1/4 under that hoop. It won't be perfect but it might work well. I'll see how much I want to endure sitting around in the "garage" (Shed In A Box) in 25* weather.
Couple thoughts, here. On the spinning bolts: first, I wonder if there's a way to access the nuts, maybe there's a significant hole left if you remove the latch? Second, I'll bet Lowe's has some replacement nuts/bolts (or maybe just nuts) to replace those. If I can get to the nut (or if mine don't just spin), that might be easy.
I just removed both side panels (all (3) on each side) the other night to install my Spyderpops upper stainless steel vent grilles (SPY431). I'm not looking forward to removing those yet again but I'm probably not going to ride tomorrow. (It's raining now and barely above freezing. Supposed to drop into the 20s tonight and not get out of the 30s tomorrow. Good chance for black ice.)
I think it's going to be all about front access.
Feeling under the latch feels like it is solid plastic. If you come in from the side you might be able to maneuver around things to get to the bolts... but looks like you’ll need a long extension and trying to find the bolts with the extension very tight maneuvering (more pics attached).
I understand about not wanting to remove the Tupperware. After putting a small gouge in one of the fins I think I’m good with not wanting to take them off again.
Wishing you success. I wish I could be more help.
Attachments
Thanks. Trying to figure out the perspective for the 2nd pic.
Sorry about that tilt your head to the left. I’ll see if I can fix it.
Also another thought. Maybe the parts page will help. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...-iframe.html&usg=AOvVaw0a6muRnyW0t7pzSxU2Tq79
It’s not instructions but at least it tells you if it push pins or bolts. I looked under 2020 rt front storage
Hopefully this pic is right side up.
BTW the nuts are Elastic Stop Nut M6 according to the parts page.
Attachments
That helps. I might be able to get my hand in through the side but it doesn't look like I could then angle it up and reach that nut. I wonder what the "elastic stop" part of the nut description means unless it's just BuRPs name for a Nyloc nut. If that's the case (and the more I think about it, I think that's exactly it....that would also explain why they want you to replace it), Lowe's should have them by the box although I'd just reuse the OEM one again.
The more I look at that parts diagram, the more I think, in order to do it the right way, you have to remove the front end, or at least the front skin. If you look at the pic, the area I've drawn in red (using my advanced professional drawing and editing skills) is under the black plastic front skin (BuRP calls it the "bumper cover") and the dots in blue are (I think) where the visible push pins are.
The instructions in the service manual to remove the front of the bike start on page 622. It refers to unplugging about (5) connectors (some of which may or may not be present on the base model since at least (1) would be for the Limiteds Signature lights and another is probably for the wiring harness for the Auxiliary light...no idea what else there would be that needs to be unplugged). (4) push pins under the access cover at the rear of the frunk, (2) underneath holding on the covers that hide the sway bar then it says "7. Completely remove front cargo module from vehicle." Of course, the next set of instructions is labeled "Front Cargo Module Disassembly Sequence" so step 7 makes no sense. It gets really fuzzy after that. Step 1. (page 624) shows removing (4) fasteners (push pins, I'd guess) and the (4) push pins I labeled in blue in my edited pic above. The next pic shows what looks like the INSIDE of the bumper cover so I'm not sure if we could stop there to remove the ring that holds the liner in place or not. After that, it goes on to talk about disassembling the rest of the bumper cover into it's individual pieces. Of course, it doesn't say ANYTHING (thanks, BuRP) about removing the frunk LID and hinge but I'm sure it would have to go.
I've been long winded but it suits (2) purposes. First, I do better when I can talk my way through a problem and second, maybe you can see something I missed or elaborate on something I said (typed).
Anyway, it's late and I'm tired although I'll lie in bed for hours thinking about this cuz my mind won't stop.
Thanks and let's keep at this, sir (I'm assuming).
I’m wondering if step 7 is can ams go to for working with the front. Because if you look at the instructions for the front signature lights they also say to Completely remove front cargo module from vehicle. Even though you just really need to deal with the bumper. https://instructions.brp.com/conten...ont Signature Light&rel_part_number=219401024
With what you found in the manual, your thoughts, and the fact that other instructions remove the front, I agree the front needs to be removed. I think with using the manual, parts list and printing out the pics to use as a checklist of what’s been removed I think this can be done. Will it take hours and be very tedious definitely. Me personally I think I will wait to tackle this project at another time when I don’t have other things I want to put on the Spyder (lights, sway bar, etc) and just go with my half fix for right now. But I’ll be happy to keep bouncing round thoughts and ideas with you.
Actually a Miss
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
I believe the service manual shows every bolt or nut on the Spyder that has Loctite on it or is plastic needs to be replaced. I ignore that requirement unless there is a clear potential safety issue with not replacing it. So far I have never had a problem by doing so.
Making good progress today. Got the entire front end off the bike. Had to buy a set of ramps. Not high enough to change a sway bar but there are a few bolts that are almost impossible to get to w/o being on ramps. Looks like there are a couple hidden push pins (what a shock, eh?) so I'll have to completely disassemble EVERYTHING on the front end. NOW I get why the shop was going to charge 2-3 hours labor although I'm sure they could do it much faster than I can since they have the know-how, the right tools and a lift.
More later.
More later.
Frunk liner is installed and the (2) pieces of the frunk/front cover are back together. Now I just need to attach the front of the bike to the rest of the bike. 
Honestly, this sux doing it alone. Not that it can't be done with one person (although some of these pieces are pretty bulky and a 2nd person would be helpful) but I need some "moral support" right now to finish this up.
More later.
Honestly, this sux doing it alone. Not that it can't be done with one person (although some of these pieces are pretty bulky and a 2nd person would be helpful) but I need some "moral support" right now to finish this up.More later.
Frunk liner is installed and the (2) pieces of the frunk/front cover are back together. Now I just need to attach the front of the bike to the rest of the bike.
More later.
WOW WOW WOW! Congrats! I bow to you! Not only did you do it in what I believe is record time, but in the cold :shocked::clap:
Thank you for sticking to it and sharing your progress.
I had an incident with a snapped off piece of Tupperware where a push pin goes last night...so my confidence level is shot. But doesn’t mean I still won’t try this in the future.
Thanks again!
Everything's all back together. I even got an added bonus! TWO fault codes. I started up the bike to run it up on ramps after I had the front end off and everything (what there was) unplugged. The only thing that wasn't a light that I unplugged was some sort of sensor on the right side of the bike. When I started the bike (with it unplugged), the outside temp showed -51* so I'm guessing that's the ambient temp sensor.
Anyway, I got P2228 and P0073. What are these and how do I clear them?
Anyway, I got P2228 and P0073. What are these and how do I clear them?
Here is a post to one of the codes looking up the other one
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-45452.html
A post on the other code. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...s-P0073-Fault-Code-mean&p=1551799#post1551799
Looks like with both check all the connections unplug and plug back in
Thanks, ma'am. I ask because, after much searching, I think the P0073 is because I started the bike with the ambient temp sensor unplugged. No big deal as long as I can reset it. On P2228, per your link (thanks, again), it says, "P2228 = reporting module, ME17; Ambiant pressure sensor short to grd. Possible causes; damaged sensor, circuit wires,connector, ECM pins on connector. Ensure sensor is fully inserted(plugged in).". The only plugs I unhooked for for the ambient temp sensor (nothing about ambient pressure unless it's the same thing) and the wire for the Auxiliary light.
I look forward to your further response so I can call this one done.
EDIT: I didn't see you posting as I was typing. I only unplugged ONE thing that wasn't light related. Assuming both are for the same sending unit, how would I clear them? If they don't come back, I don't care. If they do, I'll rip apart the tupperware again (which I really don't want to do).
Not sure if this works with clearing the codes for the 2020 but found this on another post.
Turn on the ignition key.
Wait until it fully boots up.
Press the mode button like normal.
Press down the brake pedal hard and hold it there.
Turn the ignition key off.
Wait until it fully shuts down. About 20 seconds but wait 30 to make sure.
Release the brake pedal.
Next time you turn on the key the fault should be gone.
If you can get to that plug easily that wasn’t a light I would still try to unplug it and plug it back in and check the wire and connectors for it
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