2014RT - Anyone install a front trunk release by a solenoid?

[stu]

hi guys i want to make up a front trunk release using a electric opener.i dont want a remote opener type,i figured i would use a push button and keep it simple.i remember someone did this but cant find it.my wife is struggling to open the front so im trying to avoid a drama on the road.or i could just use a small cable and loop on the end..real simple.

its a 2014 rt ltd

thanks

 

[JayBros]

In what way is your wife struggling to open the frunk? Is she having trouble pushing the key down into the ignition lock or turning the key? In either vase one of those larger key holder gizmos mike make it easier to push and turn. One of Lamonster's IPS key holders, http://www.lamonstergarage.com/can-am-spyder-ips-billet-key-cover-lamonster/, might be a big help although it's rather a bulky blob when you remove it from the ignition lock.

 

[larryd]

hi guys i want to make up a front trunk release using a electric opener.i dont want a remote opener type,i figured i would use a push button and keep it simple.i remember someone did this but cant find it.my wife is struggling to open the front so im trying to avoid a drama on the road.or i could just use a small cable and loop on the end..real simple.

its a 2014 rt ltd

thanks

I THINK it was Joel The Biker...Try to PM him...He is a frequent visitor here and wealth of talent...larryd

 

[deerdc]

Hi I had 2014 rtl I installed the older factory electric release the wires are there for it then went to a john deere dealer and got a lawnmower reverse over ride push button mounted it in the center of the switches and it works great

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The downside of the electric opener is the key has to be on for it to work, unless you custom wire it rather than using the OEM wiring already in the Spyder. I put one on the 2013 RT I had. I didn't find it to be all that beneficial so I didn't put one on my 2014 RTS. BRP dropped it from the -S and -L editions in 2014. It never was standard on the base RT. If you do decide to go ahead with it get the BRP unit so you don't have to cobble up the installation. I also ordered the combo park/trunk switch from BRP that was used from 2010 to 2013. The necessary connections are in the harness already.

As far as your wife having trouble with the key opening it, make sure the ignition switch and the trunk latch are well lubed. Also, you can adjust the trunk latch to minimize the force needed to unlatch it. I've got mine operating freely enough that I don't have the concern about the stress if puts on the ignition that Mike (BlueKnight911) has expressed several times. As an alternative give the cable a real hard look. That may be the best way to go.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Just be aware that the OE switches are renowned for being pretty problematic, failing frequently, and (especially for the 'Frunk' side of the 'combination Park/Frunk' switch like those on my 2013 RT) quite expensive to replace just once, let alone the 'often' that'd could be necessary!! :shocked:

So going OE, at least for the switch itself, might not be such a great idea... :don'tknow:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

The downside of the electric opener is the key has to be on for it to work, unless you custom wire it rather than using the OEM wiring already in the Spyder. I put one on the 2013 RT I had. I didn't find it to be all that beneficial so I didn't put one on my 2014 RTS. BRP dropped it from the -S and -L editions in 2014. It never was standard on the base RT. If you do decide to go ahead with it get the BRP unit so you don't have to cobble up the installation. I also ordered the combo park/trunk switch from BRP that was used from 2010 to 2013. The necessary connections are in the harness already.

As far as your wife having trouble with the key opening it, make sure the ignition switch and the trunk latch are well lubed. Also, you can adjust the trunk latch to minimize the force needed to unlatch it. I've got mine operating freely enough that I don't have the concern about the stress if puts on the ignition that Mike (BlueKnight911) has expressed several times. As an alternative give the cable a real hard look. That may be the best way to go.

I M S .... if you feel there isn't much or enough Stress to be of concern then please explain why there have been numerous complaints about the Failures of the cable. If it isn't stress .... then what is causing the failures ????? ........... I do agree the simple fix is a mechanical way to open the Frunk and seat .... I did both for less than One dollar ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[stu]

thanks everyone for the great and many suggestions.it turns out when i got home and asked about the issues she had been having,she had been turning the key the wrong way and didnt notice the seat had lifted up.its only her second ride by herself and was a rookie mistake.but im leaning towards a extra cable just in case.
thanks again for all the help.

 

[megagame]

Just be aware that the OE switches are renowned for being pretty problematic, failing frequently, and (especially for the 'Frunk' side of the 'combination Park/Frunk' switch like those on my 2013 RT) quite expensive to replace just once, let alone the 'often' that'd could be necessary!! :shocked:

So going OE, at least for the switch itself, might not be such a great idea... :don'tknow:

The ones used in 2011 RT are CARLING switches. They are like 5$. Just don't buy oem's.

BRP is basically rebranding everything they got beside frame (which was **** for older MY). Can am should be named BOSCHo-ROTAX .

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I M S .... if you feel there isn't much or enough Stress to be of concern then please explain why there have been numerous complaints about the Failures of the cable.

The latch is adjustable up and down. If it's too low the rubber seal will push up on the lid causing the latch loop to pull tight against the lever that holds it down. Probably the latches are adjusted from the factory to hold the lid really snug against the rubber seal. The harder the lid loop pulls against the release lever the greater the strain on the ignition switch and cable to release it. I loosened mine. 'Really rugged' is not a phrase one can use to describe the ignition switch assembly and the release cable.

 

[2dogs]

An auxiliary frunk release is a fairly straight forward and easy install. Just pop off the left side cover and open the frunk lid and everything is accessible. An auxiliary seat release requires a bit more work because the install space is a little tighter. Pop the seat and the right side cover and do the install. Two lengths of small diameter cable and four crush type cable clamps are all the parts you need to complete the job.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The ones used in 2011 RT are CARLING switches. They are like 5$. Just don't buy oem's.

Just make sure they are double throw, center off, momentary on. I don't remember if they need to be double pole or single pole, but then again, they may not come in single pole version.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

An auxiliary frunk release is a fairly straight forward and easy install. Just pop off the left side cover and open the frunk lid and everything is accessible. An auxiliary seat release requires a bit more work because the install space is a little tighter. Pop the seat and the right side cover and do the install. Two lengths of small diameter cable and four crush type cable clamps are all the parts you need to complete the job.

:agree: ... I bought the cable at Home Depot, you buy it by the foot ( 24 inches long ). get the thinnest one - mine is covered by a green plastic sheath. You can get the crush clamps also, I made mine from some scrap alumin. ...... cost less than one dollar..... some have used bicycle BRAKE cables. Yep they work but way more expensive and won't work any better than mine ...... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[2dogs]

:agree: ... I bought the cable at Home Depot, you buy it by the foot ( 24 inches long ). get the thinnest one - mine is covered by a green plastic sheath. You can get the crush clamps also, I made mine from some scrap alumin. ...... cost less than one dollar..... some have used bicycle BRAKE cables. Yep they work but way more expensive and won't work any better than mine ...... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

I did just about the same thing as you. Remember to exercise them once in a while cause if your gremlin bell is not functioning properly something will come up stuck at the most inopportune time. If you get my drift.

 

[Joel The Biker]

I used a keyless entry system from amazon. Comes with 4 solenoids. I can open my frunk and lock/unlock the rear cargo areas with a keyfob.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I did just about the same thing as you. Remember to exercise them once in a while cause if your gremlin bell is not functioning properly something will come up stuck at the most inopportune time. If you get my drift.

:roflblack: .... it gets plenty of use .... I stopped using the Key in 14 after I did the manual cable release ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Lew L]

Installed a manual release on the frunk and seat years ago. Gremlin bell works as advertised. It was installed right after my DESS black box ( from India ) had to be replacednojoke.
Lew L