F3 - adjustable peg and brake rod ?

[MagYukon]

Hi,

does anybody find a way to easily move the peg and brake rod on an F3 ?

My wife wants to use the Spyder and she's 6" shorter that me. Usually, I had my pegs at position 5 and for her, position 3 is the best.

I can imagine we can modify the brake rod to have a kind of slinding tube with pins to lock it in place and easily move it from one position to the other.

But, for the pegs, there's 2 bolts on each side which i would like to have something easier. I was thinking about a kind of clamp, like what is used for a bicycle seat.

I know that it might brings up some security challenges and even if it's easier to remove, it should be as solid as the original setup.

Anybody made something or have an idea ?

thanks

 

[MONK]

Once you remove the (2) bolts on each pedal assembly for the 1st time (flippin' BRP and their overuse of that crappy yellow Loctite), I'd say you could probably move the pegs (minus the brake linkage) in about 5 minutes.

 

[MagYukon]

Once you remove the (2) bolts on each pedal assembly for the 1st time (flippin' BRP and their overuse of that crappy yellow Loctite), I'd say you could probably move the pegs (minus the brake linkage) in about 5 minutes.

You are right. But you also need to replace all the bolts. they are in stainless and so soft, after removing and replaced them once, I have one with its hex head mor round than Hex.

Possibly replacing them with something better is the way to go.

I'd like to find an effective solution to be able to do so without any tools. Maybe I'm asking too much :dontknow:

 

[RICZ]

I made my brake rod adjustable using the method you stated. The photo shows that I uses 4 roll puns, but you could use R-pins (clevis pins) for ease of changing lengths.
The sleeve is a 6" long 3/8" pipe nipple, but a longer one can be used for more adjustment. The pipe will need to be bored out with a 1/2" drill and the rods shaved down to a slip fit. I cut the threaded ends off for appearance sake.

 

[MagYukon]

I made my brake rod adjustable using the method you stated. The photo shows that I uses 4 roll puns, but you could use R-pins (clevis pins) for ease of changing lengths.
View attachment 183878

I must admit that your solution is one of my inspiration

I already have rod #3 and #5. I can easily use one of them to do exactly like you did.

 

[YIRYDE]

This video from Lamont may help, http://www.lamonstergarage.com/can-am-spyder-f3-brake-rod-lamonster/

 

[RICZ]

I must admit that your solution is one of my inspiration

I already have rod #3 and #5. I can easily use one of them to do exactly like you did.

I left out that I cut about an inch out of the center of the rod. My purpose was to lower the brake pedal to where I could just swing my foot on to it.

 

[RICZ]

This video from Lamont may help, http://www.lamonstergarage.com/can-am-spyder-f3-brake-rod-lamonster/

I'm a cheap bastard! Besides, I love to do my own "work arounds" as I call them. It keeps the brain cells active.

 

[Gwolf]

I replaced the OEM bolts with grade 8 socket head cap screws. Deeper hex socket and stronger bolts. Put it back together with blue Locktite. Only takes a few minutes to change them. The original brake rod that was on it when I picked it up from the dealer is still hanging on the wall in the shop.

 

[Rattlebars]

You are right. But you also need to replace all the bolts. they are in stainless and so soft, after removing and replaced them once, I have one with its hex head mor round than Hex.

One way to deal with "round" hex is to get a proper sized torx but and hammer it in there to get enough grab to get it out.

I made my brake rod adjustable using the method you stated. The photo shows that I uses 4 roll puns, but you could use R-pins (clevis pins) for ease of changing lengths.
The sleeve is a 6" long 3/8" pipe nipple, but a longer one can be used for more adjustment. The pipe will need to be bored out with a 1/2" drill and the rods shaved down to a slip fit. I cut the threaded ends off for appearance sake.
View attachment 183878

I thought about putting all thread into the inside of the brake rod which would give you a setting much finer than the whole inches that a new rod supplies. My plan was to do that when I returned to Ohio this past spring, but the mismanagement of the COVID killed those plans. I don't even know if it's hollow and those who have cut one can let me know. I did lower my pedal by drilling the yoke.